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Thread: California smog analysis, ask a smog tech

  1. #76

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    The problem with used sensors etc is they are potentially the same age as what you're trying to replace and it is a gamble that, even if you do find a suitable unit, it's not going to be as bad as the one you already have - with the added bonus of driving to the yard, messing around removing it after walking around for half an hour finding one. I wonder when CA is going to ban smoke detectors due to their radioactive isotope content and it taking 400+ years to break down...
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  2. #77

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    Op has access to pick n pull they have a 30 day return guarantee. I’ve purchased dozens of Mitsubishi mafs and never had a problem with one. They are the 91’+ units. OP likely has one of the few that do go bad. Either way he has 30 days or longer if he buys the extension to take it back. Walking the yard isn’t difficult either. They organize thing quite well and label their rows.

  3. #78

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    Good news mini-truckers!
    The $33 dollar Cardone reman MAF worked great, and ended up cheaper than the drive down to the border, and the $50 they wanted at the junk yard.
    On the first drive after getting it swapped out, I immediately noticed the increase in low end power, and the tail pipe emissions were no longer excessively smoky.
    When I got to a parking lot I noticed it still seemed to miss every so often. After I returned home I popped the hood with the engine still running, and what did I see?..... an electrical arc from the 6th cylinders spark plug wire boot to the metal surrounding the spark plug wire. I turned off the engine and reseated the cable, still arced. I found the old, original cables, got an appropriate sized one, installed it, and it did not arc, and fixed the missing, and cleared up the exhaust even more.

    If I had not looked at night, if I would have noticed the spark? After finding it, I noticed that their was a distinct noise made by the arc. I will remember to listen for that in the future when an engine is running rough.

    I wonder how long that cable was bad, and will be testing all the cables to make sure they are within spec.
    As you can see in the test results, there is quite the difference in what came out of the tailpipe this time!

    I'm glad the mechanic was able to steer me in the right direction, and grateful for everyone's suggestions. What a load off my shoulders

    Now I don't have to drive around always looking over my shoulder , or worrying I will get a parking ticket, which are $52 bucks a pop here.

    BTW, does anyone know if there is any place that buys the old MAFs beside turning it in as a core,since the last two I got had no need to trade them in as a core?
    I'm tempted to tear into the original Mitsu one and see if something simple failed, like a cap, or easily replaceable chip, so I could possibly have a spare.
    Attached Images

  4. #79

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    Nice win on all fronts. That spark at least confirms your ignition system is pretty healthy + the low HC reading in the emissions test means it's burning everything about as cleanly as it can.
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  5. #80

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    Hey everyone. I am brand new to this forum and this is my first post. I've got a 1989 Mighty Max with the G63B with 167xxx in it that will not pass CA smog. After it failed its first attempt, I replaced the CAT, muffler, 02 sensor, plugs (gapped to .43), wires, distributor cap, changed oil and filter, pulled the EGR and cleaned it ( it wasn't clogged, but a bit wet/oily looking), ran sea foam spray through the carb, and have been running 91 octane in it and drove it about 200 miles to hopefully clear the system out of any old bad crap. I've hooked up a vacuum gauge and the gauge reads that the engine is healthy. After doing all this, I took it to get a retest and was confident it would pass, but it failed again! And some of my numbers were worse than the original test, WTF! I've attached images of both test results. Thank you for taking the time to read and any inout would be much appreciated!
    IMG_4492.jpg

    IMG_4491.jpg

  6. #81

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    Did you swap the ignition coil? If it's weak, that will affect HC readings from not the air/fuel charge being burnt efficiently and in turn affect CO2 and other readings. An ignition coil typically lasts about 10 years before it starts to break down. Also, how hot was the engine when you got it into the testing station? The CAT works best when it's hot. Another thing - have you ever flushed your engine oil? Even with an oil change, there will be residual contaminated oil in the engine. The '89 engine should be a hydraulic head and if the hydraulic lash adjusters are gummed up, it will affect combustion chamber fill from a reduction in valve lift. Not sure what else to reccomend. The carb may also be overdue for a rebuild...
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  7. #82

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    I swapped out the coil today. I'll flush the oil in the next few days as well. When I got the second smog test, it was only about 2 miles down the road and the truck wasn't that warm, think that could have any affect on the second test results?

  8. #83

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    From what I've looked up, the CAT works at it's most efficient when it is hot. One tip I found was to keep the engine running until it gets called in for testing in an attempt to keep the CAT hot. Your NOx readings look...extremely low (if I'm reading the report right) so that would indicate your mix isn't lean, the EGR is working properly along with the CAT and your engine temps aren't abnormally high. Having the engine at full operating temp will help as well. You swapped the plugs - you may need to consider trying either a performance plug or a plug in a higher heat range to fudge the numbers. Also try 'purging' the carb by taking the air filter off, opening the throttle at the linkage while placing your hand over the throats in an attempt to starve the engine of air. The sudden massive increase of internal vacuum might clear possible partial blockages in the jets and improve atomisation, which in turn should aid a cleaner air/fuel charge burn. A can of carby clean wouldn't hurt either. Not sure of what else I can suggest. Hopefully either another member will add their opinion to this and the next time you have to jump through the emissions testing hoop you'll pass.
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  9. #84

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    okay right on Geezer I'm going to give those things a try!

  10. #85

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    Hi everyone, I bought a 94 MM and having trouble getting it to pass smog (live in San Diego, CA). So far I've changed the rotor cap, cleaned the EGR, had the EGR pressure checked that was fine, even went and bought to bottles of guaranteed to pass (did not pass). I found out I also need to take it in to see a referee, love that. I was wondering if anyone has had any experience with refs? Sick of looking over my shoulder because I can't even get a title transfer unless I have a passing smog check.

  11. #86

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    Are the O2 sensors working, what is the catalytic converter like condition wise etc? See if there are any error codes lurking in the ECU and correct any detected faults. There are all sorts of things that can affect a smog test. Even dirty or contaminated engine oil can be enough to barely cause it to fail. Use the lowest octane fuel you can get (85) and don't use any fuel additives (seafoam will clean out the upper combustion, but the solvent residue will insta-fail it), oil flush the engine to scour as much old oil sediment out of the block and sump. Don't disconnect the battery for at least a week before taking it in for an inspection or the ECU will be re-learning base tune and it'll throw it out of emissions specifications. Even have a crack at cleaning your injectors out so the spray pattern is uniform.
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  12. #87


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    Quote Originally Posted by parkedufo View Post
    Hi everyone, I bought a 94 MM and having trouble getting it to pass smog (live in San Diego, CA). So far I've changed the rotor cap, cleaned the EGR, had the EGR pressure checked that was fine, even went and bought to bottles of guaranteed to pass (did not pass). I found out I also need to take it in to see a referee, love that. I was wondering if anyone has had any experience with refs? Sick of looking over my shoulder because I can't even get a title transfer unless I have a passing smog check.

    NO SMOG tests in Hawaii (yet) but this stuff helped my truck run better: https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c...ve/mrg8/120007

    I closely followed the directions; do they tell you the reason for SMOG fail ? Would googling the reason give a fix answer ?
    Good Luck

  13. #88



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    What was the test results?
    most of the time the cat goes bad.
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