or use edelbrock break in oil with zddp - don't do what gas monkey garage did and cheap out by using cheap oil and an additive - they wiped 2 lobes and trashed 2 lifters out and filled the motor with shavings...
or use edelbrock break in oil with zddp - don't do what gas monkey garage did and cheap out by using cheap oil and an additive - they wiped 2 lobes and trashed 2 lifters out and filled the motor with shavings...
Pennyman1
The best Dodge that Dodge never made
Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980
Oh I'm not, I have some of that lucus additive and I never put cheap oil in my vehicles so it's getting the correct weight Mobil1 and a mistisubishi filter. I'm trying to get a pair of the factory 5 star 4x4 wheels for it like on my neighbors.
do not use synthetic oil for break-in - it will not let the parts break in properly. use it after break in.
Pennyman1
The best Dodge that Dodge never made
Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980
I didnt get synthetic, I got the break-in down pat where I build race cars with dad. Im just tickled to get it back on the highway again. I took the bumpers off and the skid plate so I could sandblasted them and paint them back flat black today and they look amazing. Im probably going to paint the truck all over this summer, it looks alright but the clear is comming off of the hood and roof, and I have a super small rust hole on the rocker so im going to kill that before it spreads.
Does anyone know if I can make the sport cluster work in my mm? I know of a friend that has a sport cluster but I dont want to spend any money on it if the tach wont work with my truck.
Well I guess I know what im going to get tomorrow after work lol.
I thought that the oil pressure sending unit HAD to be the one WITH a gauge, NOT idiot light?
Mine came from a quest. The big canister style sending unit, not the little bulb ones.
OH, and start saving up for a Clearwater head or one from Odessa on Ebay. Thicker, and just better.
The stock one is going to crack. It's just a matter of time.
I ordered mine bare, ported it, used a "Schneider" regrind w/roller rockers and for the rest I used the quest parts. *(the quest/starion exhaust valves are SODIUM filled) BTW.. And lap those seats in.
I worked on a buddy's that he said RAN GREAT before a oil pump chain failure, but found a cracked head #2 and 3 after tear-down.
You might want to have one of your Dad's buddys re-curve your distributor a little for that weber. Being a 4wd, you might want your advance in quicker.
E
I've already advanced the timing alittle to make it rev quicker, so far ive put 900 miles on it and its ran really good. If it does end up busting the head again eventually its getting a starion engine or a 4g63 out of a tsi talon but for now i cant belive its running this good. Ive never had a carb'ed engine run this good and acutally start in the morning when its cold without square dancing on the gas pedal. And on the cluster ill work on that, only reason I really want it is a tach because its driving me crazy without one.
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