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a pipe wrench can fit onto any part of that fitting and as it turns it grows tighter on the grip. Squirt some anti-seize around it and if all fails grab the vise grips and lock onto it. Might take the brake hose off intake and go in at an angle from the side to catch a flat spot on that fitting. Vise grip on any portion of the fitting will grip but be careful not to crush it. Put something in the hole to keep it from distorting the thing or crushing it.
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Thanks. The line running from that nipple is eliminated with the Weber carb (IIRC) and it starts leaking coolant every few months when I put a rubber cap on it, so I want to wrench this fitting out and get a straight fitting. Maybe I'll just take the whole intake off and clean it up with better plugs and block off plates, do some wire elimination, too.
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The intake will have a little EGR valve hole that goes through it, that gets packed with carbon. Get a coat hanger out for that PIA. It goes clear through the head to the #4 exhaust port hole.
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Masters Degree
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Does #4 get fouled or burn valves more quickly because of the EGR port? If I take the intake off, is there a way I can check the overall health of the engine by sight? I've heard from a friend who knows way more about cars than me that it's "bad" to break the factory head gasket seal if you can avoid it because the seal will never be as tight as it came off the assembly line. Are there pictures of what's "normal" carbon build up?
I noticed there's a small leak from the distributor area, feels like the lower retaining bolt backed out (?) but I can't see because of all the stuff in the way and I can't get my mirror in there. Otherwise, the engine looks pretty clean and leak free, its taken maybe 2 quarts of oil over 5000 miles. 125,000 on the engine total.
I think just going to take the intake off and see what's going on and try to eliminate all of these unused ports and nipples after the Weber conversion and see what's going on with the distributor leaking.
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