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Thread: looking for a 4d55t, or 4d56t

  1. #1

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    looking for a 4d55t, or 4d56t

    im looking for a GOOD REBUILDER, or running motor. need something to build for my truck for the future... anybody know where to find them?

  2. #2

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    You'll be better off just to buy a new crate motor. To do a quality rebuild will cost $8000 by the time you rebuild the motor, turbo, injectors, injection pump etc.. A new crate motor shipped to your door with all new accessories is $4100. It's a no brainer.

  3. #3



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    car-part.com

  4. #4

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    I am working on a purchase as I need 4 engines for a commercial job I am bidding. I also have decided to install one (4d56ti) in my 1995 mmax. Not sure of EXACT pricing yet, but it SHOULD be less than the $4100 shipped to Mobile, AL. I live in North ALabama(Alexander City) and will bring them back here on a pallet in my truck (or on my trailer). for PU or shipping from here. These are made by Hyundai to Mitsubishi specifications (under licence) as they are sold in various Hyundai vehicles in the Thailand, Burma, Vietnam, Korean markets. Equipped with all new accessories (except A/C compressor) including vacuum pump alternator, starter, wpump, even clutch and pplate. Bolts right up to gas transmissions, using stock v6 or I4 engine mounts. There will probably need some wire lengthening etc for various sensors, etc. There are many experts on here who can tell you more as they already have done the swap (and apparently is a pretty easy swap, as swaps go....

  5. #5

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    There is a block Assy on ebay w/o head, but with some accessories for 800 I believe. Also, used ones for $2000-2500 or so used (from Japan). I agree re rebuilding, especially assembling all "small" parts cost. Much better to buy either a used one (with accessories) or a new one $4100, or whatever mine cost, if less enough to warrant importing them. Those Jap engines used are usually under 60,000 miles and in good shape (with a warranty), so decent deal, IMHO. Make sure to get a "Tuff Pan" from Paul, however. The torque will twist the trans cases and wear the bearings and gears within 100,000 miles or so, I found, in 2wd and 4 wd, with the 4wd lasting 20% less miles all else the same. That was using AMSOIL trans (gear) oil..

  6. #6

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    thanks for the heads up thillskier, who are you buying the motors from? if you don't mind me asking...

  7. #7

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    Chinese major parts supplier (supposedly). I say that as I have imported using a China buying service since 2001, with good (if understood regarding spares; warranty we call it). Their idea is send 10% of purchase in "extra" parts, and that is warranty. You need to sell extra parts not needed for repairs to pay your labor. Not ALTOGETHER A BAD DEAL, however, one needs to realize what the translation means to be happy with agreed pricing. That's why I have not priced anything yet. A way too cheap initial price, and I sent a deposit, resulted in a refund today. Its a game though. So, as promised, if interested, as soon as its available, I will post info. I WILL diesel this truck, and then make some power! I had ridiculous mpg from my bought new 84 (48 mpg if odo was accurate) every trip to the beach (every other weekend in mid 80's ..unless towing my 22 foot Stamas cuddy cabin boat..then punched, 4th gear, and 65mph. 14 mpg!! FLOORED! hehe My brother saw me coming down the interstate towing the boat, and saw a BLUE DOT under a tan mass with black smoke billowing from it!

  8. #8

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    Oh, and possibly manufactured by Hyundai. All to be disclosed ASAP I know..

  9. #9

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    i thought i heard something about they are made by Hyundai now...

  10. #10

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    Yes, Hyundai is selling them in their SE Asia vehicles. That's the source I am hoping to source from, a company that is supplying them for replacement engines in those vehicles. Same spec as if Mitsubishi was still producing them. The new no usa trucks and SUV's use a very nice DI upgraded diesel, that is CR (high pressure multiple injector pulsed, etc.0 and VERY powerful and torque, but has to be ecm controlled, so a PITA to convert, AND expensive! These "old style" engines should be good for 200+whp and 300+ ft lbs tq, which would be VERY fast in out lightweight trucks, even the 300lbs 4wd. Also fantastic mileage, what I really am looking for!

  11. #11

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    so the engines you will be getting are ecm? or mechanical?

  12. #12

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    Mechanical, and a very close to a copy of the Bosch fuel pump used on 1990-1993 Dodge Ram (except 4 cylinder). This will allow us very well known upgrades to fueling for better power (with more and cooler/denser air using larger turbo's, more boost PSI and intercooling to keep boosted air cool(er), keeping engines safe. Its a 21 PSI compression ratio, and IDI, so that must be kept in mind when uprating power. I will try to find some heads to try some mild porting, and thermal coating, as I had GREAT results building High Performance Microlight aircraft 2 strokes. The Aluminum heads are very sensitive to overheating, and MUST be kept within a fairly narrow temperature window. If they are not kept cooled (not maintaining cooling system, or too fuel rich) they WILL crack, and usually isn a difficultto repair spot (like between valves). I'm going to run water wetter for sure all the time except the few months here it freezes. The ceramic coating on the cylinder head (and pistons if possible) will make a HUGE increase in efficiency, in an inefficient engine design. (like 2 stroke gas or IDI diesel engines. By burning ALL fuel, that's more power pushing you down the road. In my airplane I was able to cut fuel burn at cruise by 30%! at same power output (ie cruise speed). Lots of fun and interesting possibilities!

  13. #13

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    keep me informed on this if you dont mind...

  14. #14

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    I don't want to get too excited YET...They are available but getting them priced correctly is the key. Putting a 4000+ engine into a $1500.00 truck is doable, though unfeasible to many...AND It would be nigh IMPOSSIBLE to sell, probably (At least to general public).. I'd like to offer staged packages. Stage 1: stock, approx. 100 hp and 185 ft lbs tq. (that's an average of what I'm hearing the base non IC 2.5 output. STage 2. Intercooled and optimized, but all factory "settings" intact, just as it should have come (IMHO, of course).n approx. 120 hp and 200 lb ft. Stage 3. Mild fuel upgrade, timing maximized for efficiency and power, and full sized intercooler, larger turbo, possible multi hole extrude honed injectors, etc. 150hp 200lbft. Stage 4. Head ported, Head coated (including IDI pre ignition chambers) and thermally optimized same turbo and I/C as stage 3, injectors. Possibly lowered compression and pistons coated and thermally optimized. O ringed head (if needed) or MLS type headgasket and studs. Should get 200+whp and 350+ lb ft tq reliably, I'm told the bottom end stock will hold 400 ft lbs, reliably. Wouldn't THAT be a RIOT! You guys with V8 engines should be able to relate what that's like! Except we should still be over 30 mpg!! Stage 2 SHOULD get 40+ on hwy 2wd, maybe more. I got (using odo) in my 1984 stock 2wd diesel 46-48 on interstate! Unreal! I MISS THAT! for sure, and a major reason I'm doing this.

  15. #15

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    Quote Originally Posted by 4D55 Performance View Post
    You'll be better off just to buy a new crate motor. To do a quality rebuild will cost $8000 by the time you rebuild the motor, turbo, injectors, injection pump etc.. A new crate motor shipped to your door with all new accessories is $4100. It's a no brainer.
    So I shouldn't bother rebuilding the engine I have? It was running a little over a year or so ago before blowing a h/g

  16. #16

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    I'd just analyze it like any other engine rebuild/replace decision. Rock auto has a "master rebuild kit" for 4 hundred +, that's pretty complete. Need to add in any machine work though, and mileage and condition of accessories. If I can get these delivered to Mpbile, AL for 2500 to 3000, then I'm going to do it. If not either buy a used Jap engine or a new one already in USA. Its not worth getting 5 engines and having to sell them otherwise. The first supplier I was dealing with (for 2500 delivered to Mobile, flaked out, but I got my deposit back so all good, so far.

  17. #17

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    I bought one of these engines 3 years ago and it's doing fantastic! I've got about 24k miles on it now.


  18. #18

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    Quote Originally Posted by cdalejef View Post
    I bought one of these engines 3 years ago and it's doing fantastic! I've got about 24k miles on it now.

    not even broke in yet! what did you put it in?

  19. #19

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    Quote Originally Posted by mighty spx View Post
    not even broke in yet! what did you put it in?
    A Mazda B2600

  20. #20

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  21. #21

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    ah! I have seen your build thread somewhere else.. very nice

  22. #22

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    this diesel swap might happen sooner than i thought... maybe... I had the original 2.6 rebuilt three months ago with only 70 miles on it since the machine shop built it. went to take it on its maiden voyage on the interstate to see how it would do... needless to say it didnt go to well....Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	6925this a pic from my video scope of number 2 cyl, thats the cyl wallClick image for larger version. 

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ID:	6926you can see the oild coming out the exhaust of number2Click image for larger version. 

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  23. #23



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    I'd say that the motor wasn't done right - something caused all that damage to happen. Get the rebuilder to fix it first - even if you change to a diesel motor, you could sell off a good motor.
    Pennyman1
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  24. #24

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    Yeah, I'm having to wait till Monday before i can call them.the motor has a warranty. I think they did the pistons a little to tight when they bored the motor.I wanted to pull the head, but I'm afraid they would try to void the warranty then...

  25. #25



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    That scope is pretty cool. Got a name and model for it? Sorry to hear about the motor, sure don't see any honing done on that cylinder either, don't let them try and say it was your fault. Remember lots of zinc the first 1000 miles or so and then on every so often since the new oils are taken more and more out. Hope all goes well for you.
    Strange to say that the #2 cylinder port before rebuild looked pretty nasty too. Something not right with the rebuild for sure. Those other cylinders looked like they were leaking around gaskets, prior rebuild. If you can't get the manifold plained, sometimes a double gasket will cure those problems.

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