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Thread: Bright Lights

  1. #1

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    Bright Lights

    I need some better head lights.
    I see new cars and trucks with great lights.
    How can I upgrade my head lights?

  2. #2

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    Cheapest and easiest is ebay. The "Silverstone" quartz halogens fit in the Miata and 96 dodge sockets, and are 30% brighter and more focused. HOWEVER, there may be some LED lights even better. Make sure there isn't an issue with our switches not handling the added amp draw (heat) if conventional bulbs are upgraded. LED's use less light, but I have not tried any yet...ANYONE?? The Silverstone's are still working great, and they didn't mess the Dodge switch up (unlike other upgrades forums say)...If ANyone on here knows about LED'S and has a site please SPEAK UP and send us a LINK! GL with it...Advanced (cheapest is Rock Auto) may have them on order...Post up new thread with your results and what you do please!

  3. #3

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    these are the headlights i have on my truck upgrade to the 100w/55w or 100w/90w http://www.ebay.com/itm/200mm-H6054-...item4d0b060897

  4. #4



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    If you want to run the "hot" bulbs without melting the light switch or the headlight sockets, build a sub harness using ceramic bulb sockets and relays that are fed right off the battery. I will be building a harness for my 4 light 86 Ram 50 project truck, and I will document it for all to peruse and use. You can also buy these harnesses ready made plug and play - Geronimo has had one for 8-10 years now.
    Pennyman1
    The best Dodge that Dodge never made
    Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980

  5. #5

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    Rahtid, are the lights u posted easy to install? Looks like it from the description. The stock ones on my truck barely do anything. Looks like an easy upgrade

  6. #6



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    Projector lights are worth looking at too.

  7. #7

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    once you remove the front grill, it's easy to replace

  8. #8

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    OP, check out Philips Blue Vision Ultra, they're awesome, very bright, very clean light. I saw shit on the road I never noticed before when I got a set in my Subaru.

    http://www.powerbulbs.com/us

  9. #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by Rahtid View Post
    these are the headlights i have on my truck upgrade to the 100w/55w or 100w/90w http://www.ebay.com/itm/200mm-H6054-...item4d0b060897
    Excellent! There are dozens of fancy newfangled lights on ebay, but I just wanted this type Euro lens H4.
    I knew daredevils and I ain't got nothin' against them, ........it's just they're all dead.

  10. #10

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    The autopal lights will be you best option,

  11. #11

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    I also got a pair of these High Temp ceramic connectors
    I knew daredevils and I ain't got nothin' against them, ........it's just they're all dead.

  12. #12

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    So the recommendation, best solution is the 100/90 "euro style Halogen and the ceramic plug extensions, all that's needed? What about the switch? How to keep it "cool" or is it OK if the extension is handled first? THANKS! I want brighter than what RAuto has, I decided...Eyes are needing some help nowdays!

  13. #13

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    Pennyman, I reread your post. ANy link ideas for the relays? Is there something ready to plug in or a link to components needed me to solder? Thanks! I had the melted switch issue on my Cummins dodge 96 truck when I upgraded it to Halogen. What a PITA (expensive too! Had to rewirs a bunch of crap the light wiring fried when it melted in the steering wheel cover/surround, AND the dash around the light switch. Switch ALONE cost $165!! Don't want to go through THAT again!!

  14. #14

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    Quote Originally Posted by Rahtid View Post
    these are the headlights i have on my truck upgrade to the 100w/55w or 100w/90w http://www.ebay.com/itm/200mm-H6054-...item4d0b060897
    here's a follow-up on these.
    These lights can come with what's called a "city lights" option, the city lights DO NOT FIT our trucks without a modification to the back of the headlight mounting bucket. If you order the CL option and then do not modify the mounting buckets you will be left with an open hole in the bottom of the headlight which will allow moisture and dirt in to cloud the lens and shorten the bulb life.

    Our trucks are also not wired for the CL. I solved that by cutting the pigtails for the front marker lights from my parts truck and wiring them into my front marker light circuit so it all looks stock. That's where I ended when I discovered the interference issue - I'll update again when I finish.

    As for the ceramic light socket pigtails, they are direct fit harness extensions and work perfectly.
    I knew daredevils and I ain't got nothin' against them, ........it's just they're all dead.

  15. #15



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    Quote Originally Posted by pennyman1 View Post
    If you want to run the "hot" bulbs without melting the light switch or the headlight sockets, build a sub harness using ceramic bulb sockets and relays that are fed right off the battery. I will be building a harness for my 4 light 86 Ram 50 project truck, and I will document it for all to peruse and use. You can also buy these harnesses ready made plug and play - Geronimo has had one for 8-10 years now.
    Where is the diagram? I have switched from the Mitsy 2 light to the 4 light system and would like change over to a higher candlelight without using add-on driving lights.

  16. #16

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    Quote Originally Posted by Lon Moer View Post
    here's a follow-up on these.
    These lights can come with what's called a "city lights" option, the city lights DO NOT FIT our trucks without a modification to the back of the headlight mounting bucket. If you order the CL option and then do not modify the mounting buckets you will be left with an open hole in the bottom of the headlight which will allow moisture and dirt in to cloud the lens and shorten the bulb life.
    - I'll update again when I finish.

    So what did you ever do about the City Lights interference issue ???
    Did you modify the buckets ???
    Any Pictures ???

  17. #17



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    You drill the headlight buckets for the bulb to fit through it. Geronimo has that done - easy mod.
    Pennyman1
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