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Thread: AC help? Where to get info to trouble shoot?

  1. #1

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    AC help? Where to get info to trouble shoot?

    I am trying to repair A/C. I have 134 in it (1995). Weird, as I am getting a VERY high suction pressure of 92 and a low (high side) of approx. 90 ! also!I tried to send 12v to wire going to compressor clutch (with a lead from battery + to wire but nada, zip. I thought that 12v would override the pressure switch and kick in the compressor clutch and therefore compressor..Any ideas? anyone now a good site for info re A/C troubleshooting? Thanks everyone, ! REally appreciate the help! Been looking for a MMax for a while now, wanted diesel, but the few I found (after 20+ yrs looking!! were rusted out and or 4500+!!! and still "rough", IMHO!! After reading most of this site!! in the last few days, I'm not sure whether to turbo this gas engine or just bite the bullet and go turbo with the upgraded engine 4d56...diesel..

  2. #2



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    With the engine off, you put 12 volt + to one wire of the compressor and the other to ground the clutch magnet will energize and the clutch should CLICK onto the drive pulley. If not then give a little push on the clutch toward the pulley. It it is to far away from the magnet then it will not engage on it's own. But it should when pushed. If not then the magnet is bad and needs to be replaced. If it does engage then we can move on to figuring out what is going on. When running and the compressor is running and the pressures are the same. There can be only to problems. A bad compressor or the TXV.
    Also in the manual section look for the UTI training manuals. In there is a full section just on refrigeration and how to find problems. Along with the operation of each part with breakdowns.
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  3. #3

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    OK Thx! It will cool when on if I put 12v to wire into clutch, so I'm thinking relay on the fender by the cab? or the TXV what/where is that? Did I read that's on the top of the air handler inside cab? (and is expensive! arrgh!)Again, thanks. Can u give me a link to the tech section...I have seriously look at time of my posts 20++ hours reading almost EVERY post and wiki etc on here and haven't seen the section re a/c you mentioned (nor did it come up when searched)before I posted this up..

  4. #4



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    OK so it will get cool just not cold. If you converted to 134A then you need a different Orifice tube. The gas runs at a different pressure. The TXV or thermal expansion valve works the same as the orifice tube. Just it controls the flow of liquid, not just blowing it through a hole.
    IDK if the 95 has the orifice tube or a TXV. If it has the TXV then you will see it in the high side line at the firewall. The orifice tube is inside the high side liquid line and just looks like it connects directly up to the evaporator.
    If it does not have the correct pressure then the system thinks it's under charged and will run the clutch for a short period of time. On then off, on then off, in a never ending cycle. There are a couple of guys that have done the 134 conversion on here. But there is a propane based gas fordbushi talked about that is better and works the same as the old R12. Back in the day that stuff would freeze the boys to the stove pipe in the old D50.

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    TXV

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  5. #5



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    Beware of the propane R12 conversion refrigerant - it is highly flammable and now illegal in the US. Better to use the R134 with ester oil and change the expansion valve for one compatible with R134A
    Pennyman1
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  6. #6


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    BULLSHIT it is not its the US being a bunch of dicks because it wasn't invented in the USofA, it been proven time and time again that you would need over 200 times the amount of R12a then a system can hold before it will even flash with an open flame in a car. The us DOT is just being asses as according to them you can have no flameble liquid in the vehicle....... So you can't have Gas,Diesel,Brake Fluid, Tranny Fluid, Oil or any other type of liquid that can "burn". Also its the R134 suppliers that are blocking it as R134 is produced in the US so its another form of americain greed. Funny how R12a is excepted in almost every country other then the US.

  7. #7

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    OK thanks guys. Its a 134 system (as are all 94+ yr models). I removed the solenoid, then attempted to jump the clutch again, and it is now just shorted (wire gets hot w/o clutch clicking on compressor now). SO guess its a bad clutch/compressor if clutch isn't replacable... Thanks!

  8. #8



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    I agree the r12 outlaw was really a money grab by the US govt on an essential gas in older vehicles. I don't doubt that the outlaw of the r12 replacement is just another money grab for big business, soon to be followed by another outlaw of R134A this time for govt money grab - its coming, be ready...
    Pennyman1
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  9. #9



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    Who need AC? Just place the radiator in the rear window and the fans can keep you cool in the summer.

    The clutch will come off. There is 1 nut inside the end of the compressor (pulley end) take it off. use 2 screw drivers to carefully slip the clutch off. Remove the retaining clip on the pulley, slide it off then remove the magnet. There may be shims in the compressor shaft to shim the clutch clearance. Don't loose them.
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