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Thread: Water in oil

  1. #1

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    1988 Dodge Power Ram 50
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    Water in oil

    Finally got my head back on and put everything back together. Fired it up and now water in oil (oil is milky color). Did compression checks which was about 150 psi. Pulled the head back off and no water in cyls. Head gasket looks good. What other ways could cause this and how could I check to see how this is happening? Would not think a cracked block or head since I didn't have this problem before. Put on a new intake gasket, so I would think this to be an issue. Are they any tests I can do to?

  2. #2



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    Getting water from a cracked intake manifold maybe?
    Water goes thru the manifold if not mistaken. I'm sure you know what your doing and all and by no means is this a flame on you, but your gaskets were correct right? matched the opposing engine parts and what not and no warp in parts also. My compression was 150 also and I was pumping a lot of fuel into oil at a surprising rate. After changing oil, I ran maybe 20 minutes at idle and oil was trashed again. Compression should be around 180 I think.
    Could it be possible the water was residual water that may of been puddled somewhere in an engine part and found the oil after your fix it?

    These blocks rarely ever get a crack since the head already does that for the block. The heads are probably the worst design and the casting material is inferior to say the least, just like their exhaust manifold materials.
    There is so many things it could be at this point. I have gone thru 4 heads in 26+ years and the same block is untouched. for 275k+ miles. Darn trucks are Finicky bastages.

    I use an oil catch can on my MR2 and it catches any moisture brought in by humidity and stuff. This helped keep moisture from re-entering oil or just hanging out in oil and being recirculated as the engine runs.

  3. #3

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    You sure everything was cleaned good on the engine and head sides? Proper head bolt torque and such? Any trash could have caused mixture. A warped head could cause it also. You did change the oil after changing the head right? It could just be left over like brad said. If it was the intake then there should be smoke from coolant going into the combustion chamber before entering the crank case since oil doesn't run through the manifold, it has to mix through the intake runners leading to the block. Have a machine shop check the head. It is still possible there was a crack or head issue of some kind.

  4. #4



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    If you have it back together fill it with just water and pressure the cooling system with a coolant pressure tester and let it sit to see if the pressure changes. It sucks your having this problem.


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  5. #5

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    I am also having this problem, so I would like to bump it up. My oil was same milky color as mentioned above and it was everywhere in the valve cover and in the oil pan. I did a block leak test, which consisted of putting a special liquid in a tube and putting the tube into the radiator cap opening to see if there were combustion gasses in the cooling system which came up negative. I did a pressure test with the kit pictured above and I seen water dripping somewhere and it slowly leaked pressure. This is where I believe the leak came from:Click image for larger version. 

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  6. #6

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  7. #7

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    For anyone who may be having the same problems, I discovered the issue. first I tried replacing both the intake and head gaskets, but it did not fix the problem. A few days later I had water in the oil again. But the funny thing is I pressure tested the cooling system immediately after replacing the intake and head gaskets and it showed no leakage in the cooling system. Little did I know I had pressurized it while the engine was cold. So after rediscovering water in my oil I drove it until it was hot and as I opened the oil cap, the cap was milky white, but also I could hear a hissing/bubbling sound coming from under the valve cover. When the truck cooled down it went away. So I pressure tested the cooling system while the engine was hot and sure enough I got a hissing/ bubbling sound. I turned the engine over by hand to see if the leak changed sounds with valve and piston movement but it did not. I concluded that head was most likely cracked due to a previous overheat when the thermostat failed and the reason for the leak only when hot is probably the expansion of a hair line crack somewhere in the head. So I went to the junk yard, pulled a 4G64 head with 131,000 miles on it for $92 and finished putting it on today. So far so good, if anything comes up I will post again.

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