I have had computer modem issues, just got that fixed so here's the dilly.

The "counterfeit" Weber I had installed on the motor in 2007 is history. It was a DGEC and if I'm not mistaken, it is what is what I saw named in another thread as a "Weber/Solex". Bottom line- the DGEC that I got from WeberDirect in 2007 is a POS with limited tunability. The idle jets and idle jet holders are made into one piece. WTF?!?!?! The DGEC is 300CFM when a genuine DFEV is 385CFM. The truck will run with one of those pieces of junk on the motor, but they are not the best choice. A DGEC is genuine gutter trash which is made of metal.

The truck runs a million times better with the DFEV intalled. The surging at low engine speeds "off idle" is gone. The best way to describe how the truck feels now is "energized". Like how a human feels after a good exercise workout.

I am going to obtain every idle jet size both primary and secondary for that carb and start doing the "trial and error" thing to secure the best drivability. It's close, but I think can fiddle with it some more to achieve even better. That will happen after the weather cools down a bit. I just don't like working under hood on a hot motor on 90+ degree days. Not my cup of tea.

I am still struggling with "run on" and am starting to believe these 2.6s are just prone to do it and it is typical of them.

If I adjust the idle to about 9-1000RPMs with the A/C off, when the compressor kicks on it will lower the idle to about 800RPMs. That's high enough for a relatively smooth idle, but it will run on when I turn the key off. If I set the idle to about 800RPMs with the A/C off, when the compressor kicks in it will lower the idle to 5-600 RPMs. That is low enough to minimize the run on, but it's too low to get a smooth idle.

I may end up having to install an "idle up" solenoid for the A/C. Don't want to go there though.

*scratches head*

I did learn these things though-

1)The DGEC is a piece of junk. To do this swap properly, you need to obtain a "genuine Weber" for a MMaxD50 which is a DGEV 32/36 progressive.

2)DGV= manual choke or "cable operated" choke
DGEV= electric choke
DGAV= 'automatic' or coolant operated choke- the DGEVs being more popular because of a simpler install. Just use the same 12v wire that the factory carb used, and plug off the coolant line that went to the Mikuni.

3) Any of the above will work fine, just make sure the Weber trademark is cast into the carb body somewhere. Along with that, it should say 'made in Spain" or "product of Spain" on it too. That's where the "good Webers" are made now as Pennyman pointed out.

I think I am going to end up with another DGEV. I bought one off Ebay brand new at a good price because it was before I talked to Pierce Manifolds in Cali. It was all part of my 2 week learning curve on this. I can keep it for parts or resell it for what I paid for it.

Right now it has a 75 pr idle and 70 sec idle. For a stock 2.6 motor that seems to be in the ballpark.

Still will prolly upgrade from the original mechanical pump to the Carter P4070, but not right now. Not until cooler weather hits.

I'm just glad it's back running.