This part was wrong, I required the other one and it will arrive today. The bolt holes on this one above were too close together on that center plate. Damn I just wasted 12 bucks. The correct part cost 2 dollars and something cents. Shipping cost 3 times more then the part at $8. lol.
This is the Cam Gear delivery info today.
Check this crap out from the USPS. Never fails with this bungling service of a package delivery gone stupid. Overpaid workers living at Police and fireman wages and a union that maintains their jobs even with many complaints filed on them.
July 10, 2014 , 8:31 am Out for Delivery SANDPOINT, ID 83864
Your item is out for delivery in SANDPOINT, ID 83864.
July 10, 2014 , 8:21 am Sorting Complete .SANDPOINT, ID 83864
July 10, 2014 , 7:57 am Arrival at Post Office .SANDPOINT, ID 83864
July 10, 2014 , 4:29 am Depart USPS Sort Facility .SPOKANE, WA 99224
July 10, 2014 , 12:25 am Processed through USPS Sort Facility .SPOKANE, WA 99224
July 8, 2014 , 11:25 pm Depart USPS Sort Facility .CITY OF INDUSTRY, CA 91715
July 8, 2014 , 5:42 pm Processed at USPS Origin Sort Facility .CITY OF INDUSTRY, CA 91715
July 8, 2014 , 4:27 pm Accepted at USPS Origin Sort Facility .ROWLAND HEIGHTS, CA 91748
July 8, 2014 Electronic Shipping Info Received
This reads from the bottom to the top per the travel of the shipment to the customer, (ME)
Package is sent out right, everything is AOK....
Package makes a couple stops on the way to Spokane, WA. to me.
WTF?? Package leaves Spokane, WA and is now going to Sandpoint, ID...this is about an hour from the actual delivery address posted right on the box.
The damn package had a 2 day priority delivery paid, it stops in my home town and continues on to some other address that is not on the package at all.Well, I am not laughing so hard this time. Stupid service can't even read a label on a package. It ends up taking a scenic route to wherever land. I call the postal service in Sandpoint and the dumb bitch starts getting testy on me about how the mail service is run by humans and ladi ladi ladi la and "oh well" attitude. Gawd, friggin postal service has had over 100+ years to get it right and still can't. Fire a couple of them dip sticks and watch the packages get delivered right and the service would probably profit then.
Weird thing I notice about moving to the northwest in compare to the central west coast area of California. The employed pricks up north think that they are doing you a favor by servicing you. I miss the service in California, where if you have a problem they fix it now! no questions asked and send your on your way happy with no lip service.
I pray the trany mount delivery today by FedEx doesn't end up in Lackanookie, Bumphuk Egypt.
Tranymount2.jpg
The part arrived and looks to be the right part. Going to install it now and will confirm this.
I installed the dsm cam gear last year it will work no problem,I planned on using it with the schneider cam.
Hey RAHTID, what rocker assembly do you have on that truck. I think I will have to modify the cam gear a little because it might rub the cover. There musta been a change with cam sprocket between 86 and 87 when they went from stamped steel sprockets to casted and because when I tried to put an 87 sprocket on my 86 it touched the head or valve cover if I remember. The cam pins lengths were different also.
I got the DSM 4G63/G63B NA SOHC ADJUSTABLE ANODIZED ALUMINUM RED RACING PULLEY CAM GEAR from DPT MOTORSPORT INC
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How'd that tranny mount work out, the right one?
Don't forget we have a ROCKAUTO discount code thread. Don't worry, I added it for you.
Worked out on the second one ordered. The first one had a subtle difference with the plate mounting holes to the trany. They were closer together then they should of been. So, I ordered the other Beck Arnley mount that fit perfectly.
Truck Update: running absolutely perfect. No runs, drips, leaks, burns, knocks or pings. I did have a close call though when a cap fell off a plugged temperature sensor hole I had sealed. While at a stop light, I noticed a small puff of steam from the front. I checked temp gauge and it was approaching the crack head temp real fast. Soon as the light turned green I pulled into a parking lot and stop the motor. Lifted the hood and the radiator was empty. The electric fan sensor did not pick up on the fluid dumping out and did not turn on. Gauge didn't reach the red, so I was a lucky person for always checking gauges and spotting the steam. Plugged hole with a threaded bolt this time and refilled radiator.
I forgot to add the gas mileage I am getting since the rebuild and repair. With about 100% city rural street driving I got just over 18 miles per gallon. This was a whatever I felt like driving that day mileage accumulation. I know if I was much more thoughtful about the gas pedal or freeway driving, I could easily get 4-5 miles more a gallon. I'm still enjoying the new truck engine smell right now and my foot is quite heavy on the pedal. The engine is also still seating in because my vacuum gauge is steadily climbing up towards that 21 sweet mark.
Last edited by BradMph; 09-10-2014 at 12:45 PM.
I decided since law enforcement is so honest nowadays and they keep getting to be a great bunch of guys to hang around with, (cough, cough)...I would get a little extra protection from them. As well as other dishonest drivers or road rage people that think they own the road. I did some looking around at car cameras and came up with the best for the most reasonable prices. Everywhere I looked the G1 kept coming up as the camera to have. You definitely don't want some high end camera that goes over the top with extra goodies that you really won't use. You want a camera that is installed and you can forget it is even there until you need it. This of course is an accident, or some civil rights breaking police officer that crosses your path. With states and cities requiring more and more of our money, I figured I would protect my interest with video evidence.
The G1 is actually a remarkable quality camera for a small price. It has everything I needed and that was great quality video and good audio with no bells and whistles that are just un-needed.
It has great programming qualities with overlap video, it records for hours before rewriting over old recordings. Night vision is actually what got me sold with the quality it produced at 1080p @ 30fps / H.264. Also has an impact start record option that will start the camera and record in case your not around to see it. Though remember the camera faces one direction and can't always catch the culprits. The list goes on and on so I figured I would post the product I purchased for others to look into if they wanted.
I'm sure you all watched those videos on YouTube of those car accidents and crazy shit happening, as well as that meteor coming down in Russia recorded by a car cam. The benefits are unlimited if you drive out there in the jungle. Just think how many times you had an issue driving in just one day, lol...or maybe it's just me.
Anyway, this is the stuff I ended up with and one important thing about these cameras is to be sure your not getting a counterfeit camera from some unreliable company in china somewhere. Be sure to get the guarantee of authenticity of the processor chip inside and that it records in .MOV and not .AVI mode. There are also a few versions of this camera. I decided on the G1W for the 140 degree wide angle view, they also have a less angle version for less and they also have a battery and capacitor version camera. So, it's up to you on those issues depending on what suits your liking and location. They recommend the capacitor version in hot areas due to battery life issues in those warmer locations.
ad.jpg
(click image to expand)
Here is my posted YouTube video of the Car Camcorder right out of the box with no changes in settings, setup or formatting of the SD memory card. It is recorded in 1080p HD and with the SD memory card purchased separately.
I edited and transferred the video to YouTube in the camera's native format of .MOV so degradation is at it's most minimal if any. Be sure your YouTube video settings for this video are set to 1080p for full reality quality displayed. Enjoy!
DAYTIME VIDEO
Watching the video on the YouTube website will give you the option to go full screen as well.
NIGHT TIME VIDEO
Last edited by BradMph; 10-30-2014 at 01:41 AM.
Not sure if this post needs to be in this particular thread, but unfortunately it is fast becoming one of those 'things' you may very well end up needing. Russia is having major problems with auto insurance fraud turning into an Olympic event and as a result literally everyone there has a dash cam. Look up downloaded footage on youtube, grab a bucket of pop corn and watch acts of stupidity as these lunatics turn do their best to earn Darwin awards (I spotted some footage of a guy crawling under a moving truck, then realising he was being filmed so he quickly scooted out from under there - not like he was going to need those legs anyway...) *be warned that some of the content is disturbing on these video compilations
Ordered intake adapter for under the Weber and should be installing it sometime soon. Also have another Cam sprocket that is the corrected version and shouldn't have to modify it at all for installation.
intake adapter.jpg
post the info on the cam sprocket once you are sure it fits...
Addco Handling Book
Located this pdf file booklet that discusses handling from a pretty well known suspension company that still manufactures sway bars for our trucks. If you would like to have this book you can download it here below.
Handling-Book.pdf
Back in the Garage for updates.
We pulled the truck into the garage to make some changes in the engine bay and interior. Here is the progress and changes.
We are installing a carb adapter hi-rise for the weber. I'm also replacing the first gen intake manifold for an updated 2nd gen version. The work involved is quite a pain, but it can be done with careful cutting and grinding. I first had to turn my 2nd gen intake over to a welder for some minor repairs to the distributor lock down bolt fitting, which was broken by the prior owner. Checking on Craig's list for help, I found the same guy that welded my bracket on my Toyota MR2 when I replaced the metal engine cover to the Supercharged fiberglass engine cover. He only lives around the corner from me and charges a very reasonable price for his service. He repaired the intake dizzy lock down housing bolt area and plugged a fluid hole under carb plate. He put a good amount of material back on and I am grinding and re-tapping this now. Charged $40 and was done in about 20 minutes.
distmount1.jpg====>Broken viewbrokepart.jpg
The adapter for the carb needed work inside and on the mating flats as you can see it came out decent. I kept the roughness so it could still break up fuel into a spray.
adapter1.jpg
The intake came next and there is some extensive work involved for this. You can just install the adapter if you like, but I went farther and started machining the primary & secondary port holes into a single opening. You first have to remove the primary steel ring sleeve that is in place, then cut and grind the bridge out of the intake. Take your time if you try this because you only have one chance to get it right.
manifold1.jpgmanifold2.jpgmanifold3.jpg
As I machined the intake I would place the adapter on to check my fit. It's almost perfect, but a little more work and it will be right.
adapter3.jpgadapter4.jpgadapter2.jpg
On the intake primary port after the steel ring is removed, there is a EGR port cavity that needs to be looked at. I decided to fix this with JB Weld - SteelStik which is reinforced with actual steel in the 2 part epoxy. The epoxy is 100% fuel safe and should last longer then I will live at this point.
egr.jpgjbweld.jpg
Work progresses.
I also repainted my door panels which had these orange-ish stripe panels on black. I decided to go all black and used the VHT Vinyl spray paint.
VHT.jpg
I cannot say enough about this vinyl spray paint. It is by far the most superior vinyl paint I have ever used. While painting, it may look like it will turn out like crap. Just give it time to dry and as it does you will not believe the quality it turns out for you. It's wearing factor and lasting time is 5 stars and there is nothing better. You do not have to fear spray painting interior automotive parts again, this stuff always turns out professional.
doorpanel1.jpgdoorpanel2.jpg
I also installed a new Pioneer CD stereo with MP3 and remote. I'm not a hard core bumping bass person, though I like good sound and occasionally loud. This unit was so underpriced I couldn't resist. Purchased from BestBuy for about $65, plus a $5 dollar discount on my membership card, sweet. The reviews are what sold me on buying it and this thing sounds great. Works well with my 500watt amp and 2 Pioneer and 2 Polk audio speakers.
stereo.jpg
I'll keep you updated on the adapter and intake replacing.
After the above is all completed, I am installing an aftermarket adjustable Cam timing sprocket. These sprockets are much thicker then the stock sprocket gears, so the upper cover will need some thought on how to extend it outward to accommodate the thicker gear. I have thought about a clear acrylic cover using a torch to heat the acrylic and forming it around the original upper cover. but this would take another set of hands and I only have 2. Though it could work by placing the acrylic on a board with a hole cut into it. Then placing the stock timing cover on the acrylic with some weight on top of the cover. Then from under the acrylic use the torch and slowly heat the acrylic. Slowly or you will cause the acrylic to create mini bubbles in it and it will no longer be clear. As it heats up, the weight over the timing cover sinks the acrylic and forms to the cover very nicely. Cut the flashing off the acrylic and Wha Laa!.
I think I am going to go with just a wider rubber gasket, just like the one in the cover already. The nice groove that is already there and perhaps a 1/2 to 3/4in rubber belt will seal off this cover and protect the inside from road grime and crap. Some have just cut a hole in the cover to allow the gear to fit behind it, but then, why have a cover at all. You really want to keep this area free from microscopic dust and particles since the moving parts in there are very susceptible to a self destruction and dirt will make it happen much sooner.
Last edited by BradMph; 11-06-2014 at 03:43 AM.
Here are the 2 manifolds together again.
intakes.jpg
You can see the changes that Mitsubishi made to them in one year, though they are interchangeable on the G63B engine.
Here is what I did with the JB Weld.
JB weld.jpg
Filled the EGR cavity and smoothed it out.
You also can see the steel ring that is installed at factory on the 1st gen intake. I guess it disperses the exhaust gases as they are shoved back down the throat of the engine for re-digesting. The EGR sort of reminds me of making an engine eat it's own shit again.
This doesn't seal up the port holes because I have already capped them at the EGR mounting area on the lower intake. This is more of an air flow fix since the intakes both have this cavity that would disrupt the flow into the cylinders. The bridge gap has also been removed, like in my prior post showed and leaves a little bit more opening for the engine to swallow up good air. It's not a huge change, but it should make a difference in performance. The adapter I am installing under the weber is suppose to deliver more torque and power to the lower end and this has been my goal with the truck. With all the mods so far, this engine has definitely improved a lot. It no longer just walks through the gears, it gets up off it's ass and accelerates much faster.
I should have it back together tonight and running, but I have other work to take care of before I pull it back out of the garage.
Last edited by BradMph; 10-23-2014 at 05:24 PM.
booster.jpg
I have a question concerning some braking issue I have had for a while.
In a panic or very short, harder then normal stop, my truck will almost stall. This has done this with the old original carb and weber carb. Camoit mentioned to me one time it was the big brake booster against the firewall that was the problem. My lines are tight and new hoses from the unit, but no change. I was wondering if anyone else had this problem and replaced booster to fix it. Also has anyone rebuilt one of these brake boosters before. There about $80 for a remanufactured one, so rebuilding I guess is feasible, though I have never heard of a rebuild kit for one.
Let me know!
Geronimo has been doing this for awhile - it can be a symptom of a high float level shutting off the fuel, or low fuel flow. It usually happens to me on a hard stop going downhill. Doesn't happen to me too often, so I haven't bothered to find out why. The booster can cause this, but it would do it more often than a panic stop.
I check the float level on the carb and it is perfect to factory Weber specs. Before checking, one float was lower then the other by a millimeter and I leveled them and corrected the float in bowl. I increased jet size on mixture jets by one size since the mods have been done. This brake thing is getting frustrating cause not only am I in a panic stop, I am trying to peddle play the gas to make the truck stay running.
Originally Posted by pennyman1
Well tonight was a good night and I got a ton of work done. I completed the High-Rise Weber adapter and it came out nicely.
install1.jpg
I then installed the new adjustable cam sprocket.
gear2.jpggear3.jpg
I used the same sprocket bolt, but I had to change the washer to a thinner one so I could catch more threads on the bolt. I torqued the bolt to 70lbs which it has a max of 72lbs. The sprocket fits very tight to tolerance with the timing cover. The bottom cover was ok, but very close. The top cover I had to shave a couple of millimeters off the bottom. I wanted to stick with the cover on the truck and the only way to do this is by spacing it out about 5 millimeters. So this is what I did to accomplish this.
The cover has a small rubber seal inside the rim of it. I decided that this would be the way to allow more room for the new wider sprocket. So I went to the auto parts store and purchase the shortest serpentine fan belt they had. The owner took me to the back and we looked through the belts and I found one I thought would do the job. I had to cut the belt to a proper size in length and then cut one rib off the serpentine grooves for the correct distance over the sprocket. I then pushed the belt into the existing groove in the cover after removing the small original rubber seal. This fit perfectly and was also sturdy enough to maintain the covers distance from rubbing the new sprocket. This also sealed the cover from inhaling dirt and road dust into the timing cover area. For the bottom portion of the cover seal, I used a piece of sticky one side rubber door seal and attached it to the lower timing cover to seal off the upper cover lower end. It all worked great and the sprocket is free from rubbing.
gear4.jpgcover2.jpgcover1.jpg
We will keep an eye on the install for a few days to make sure nothing freaky happens that might happen. All and all it went together pretty nicely and should not cause a problem. We will also make some time adjusting later after it is found to be secure enough.
I completed installing the gauge lights into my aftermarket gauges and wired them up to the dash. Now everything works and I have a nice red lighted dash and the matching gauges.
Tomorrow the truck gets a bath and we finish removing the window tint glue that didn't come off during the old tint removal. It's not to bad since I used a heat gun to remove the old stuff. Remember if you ever tint your windows, always use the good window tint. You don't want it to turn purple after the sun has beat on it and you also want it to be UV protecting and contain real metal if available. Saves your interior and the side of your face when the sun is kicking ass on you.
Ordered a freeze plug block warmer for the truck this year since we have such wonderful weather here during the winter. I decided on this freeze plug type since I wouldn't have to molest my lower radiator hose with an inline hose heater and extra clamps. In addition to directly warming the block, compared to heating just the hose. The installation is quite secure with a butterfly molly type of plug install. The part is from Zerostart and built very well.
heaterplug.jpg
Zerostart also has a part catalog that shows exactly where these things need to be installed at. One freeze plug will need to be removed to install.
Here is their catalog.
2014 Zerostart Application Guide and Product Catalog.pdf
Installed it on Dec. 3rd and had a little ordeal on the freeze plug removal. Gave the plug a couple hits with a screw driver and hammer to pop a hole in it to remove it and the damn thing fell inside the block, lmao. That's not suppose to happen. Anyway, I grabbed a coat hanger and curled the end and fished for it about an hour. I must of let it slip back into block 20 times before I decided to get tough with it.
I finally got it up to where I could grab a drill and I drilled a hole in it. I then grab some vise grips and crimped an allen wrench into it with the bent end outward.
I carefully coat hangered the punched in freeze plug up to the opening again , stuck the allen wrench through the hole I drilled in the plug and worked the plug cap to the opening. I turned it a bit until I found a spot that the plug was angled and stuck in the opening again. I then grabbed the vise grip with both hands and pulled that plug out.. Wheew, that was a close one...lol. Installed the block warmer and we are in business.
Last edited by BradMph; 12-13-2014 at 07:17 PM.
Good Morning,
Hope everyone had a wonderful Christmas!
...
Just finished Weber/electric fuel pump installation Wednesday. Took my little truck out for about 20 minutes, put a big simile on my face. Runs very very well, far better then at any time since I bought it (about 3 yrs. ago, just after which mikuni carb/jet valve/oil pum and more all began to fail). I posted elsewhere this motor went of local rebuilder shortly thereafter including motor R&R, he screwed everything imaginable up and the truck has been sitting ever since.
Turns out I had blown head gasket (never overheated, no consensus amongst my friends who looked at it why it failed). Had head redone, reinstalled along w/Weber etc.
According to speedometer truck had under 130k original miles.
After test drive, took about 15 minutes looking everywhere for leaks. Fuel hookups/coolant leak free. But... and this was present before head gasket blew and I parked it, my MM leaked a good pint of oil from rear seal just during this "leak check". I'm going to fix this in next few day. I've never done (install on engine stand or replace from underneath) a rear seal, would really appreciate best/detailed advice.
So several questions:
I'm looking at NAPA's seal/gasket set, which does not appear to include the "seal ring" you describe. Should I expect to see this when I drop trans? ... or do I need to purchase one?
mikewarme recommends a "repair sleeve". I found one herehttp://www.discountautoparts.com/cat...al-seals/99315 for about $35, NAPA's main store here has one (they call it speedy slave) for about $55.
That's the part mikewarme describes, correct?
How is this installed, specifically relative to the catalogue diagram BradMPH posted above?
Thanks for that Brad.But, before it goes on you need to put this stuff called anaerobic sealer on the seal and the ring's lower 1/2. This special sealer glue will not dry when left in the plain air; it only hardens when everything is bolted together and creates an air tight seal from the air. This glue stuff keeps the rear main seal from spinning and leaking and seals the ring up against the main seal. This is important if you want the seal to not leak.
This rebuild has been a nightmare with bad builder... turned into about $3500 spent total. Too close to having things nice to not finish it up well. Not having done seal before, a bit nervous and doing my best to look into this in detail so I get it right the first time.
FWIW, purpose in this restoration is to simply have a very dependable old truck that I don't have to worry about taking out across a few states (planning trip to Spokane late this spring). Paint is faded, a couple little nicks in body here & there. Plan on leaving it that way, just want reliable. Already redone wheel bearings, u-joints, a few broken window cranks and such... it's pretty solid except for finishing up what I describe here.
Thanks in advance.
Looking at Brad's photo here, he's put a filter on top of the nipple at rear of the valve cover.
In photos I took before disassembly/beginning this project, I had hose going from this nipple to stock air cleaner housing.
My Weber kit came with a plastic nipple matching hose size for that valve cover nipple, and I had assumed I would get hose to connect from that valve cover nipple to my Weber filter housing (hole for included plastic nipple is on bottom of Air Clearner housing, adjacent to block). Is this appropriate/recomended?... or is their good reason to do as Brad's done (filter) w/the Weber setup?
I've read elsewhere here, if I understood correctly, this routing could result in water vapor making it's way back into engine oil.
Appreciate any clarification on this.
Thx.
The fitting on the valve cover can be routed to the fitting supplied with the weber air cleaner, but the vent filter on the valve cover fitting works too to vent the valve cover. It keeps the oily fumes from crudding up the air filter. The original idea for that line was to reburn the fumes from the crankcase in the motor, but it causes more problems than it fixes.
Thanks Penman, makes sense. Think I'll go with filter as w/Brad's setup.
Something else just came up: checking for leaks, found good volume of oil shooting (literally... almost stready, find droplet stream) from rear valve cover area directly where the "1/2 circle plug" sits. Just finished replacing both valve cover gasket & plug... same leak. I sealed it with Permatex Indian Head Gasket Compound. I put an extra thick application on top of the plug because it's top edge seems to reside a bit below valve cover mating surface on the head. Waited good 30 minutes after assembly before firing it up.
Thinking next try at this is to try a bead of RTV silicone on top of the plug. That gap between top edge of plug and valve cover mating surface bugs me, not all that comfortable with any of my options I see right now (including RTV fix I mention)... concerned about "squeezed out" RTV getting loose and gumming up oiling ports.
Is there tried/true fix for this I'm missing?
RTV on the 1/2 circle plug is the way to seal it - put rtv on the head in the circle and put the rubber piece in then the valve cover with gasket. lay the bead of rtv to the back of the head and you will be fine.
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