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Thread: "Mitsy" '86 Repairs, Renew, Rebuild, Replace

  1. #201

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    Quote Originally Posted by BradMph View Post
    Thanks Pennyman. I didn't get the one with holes because I got my finger stuck in one once when driving and almost cost me a finger and a ride. lol
    ...I don't even wanna know what you were doing at the time

  2. #202




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    I could see that - that was not a option when I got mine. Almost happened to me several times.
    Pennyman1
    The best Dodge that Dodge never made
    Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980

  3. #203



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    Just placed an order at RockAuto.com
    The prices were great and they had what I needed.
    RockAuto.jpg

    I am replacing the ignition system key switch and the electrical switch since the keys are able to come out while the truck is running.
    I also am doing front brakes. Turning rotors and replacing pads and clips.

  4. #204

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    Hi,

    1st time back here in a long time... after I got my MM going with Weber and electric fuel pump, just got busy and truck has been parked. A close friend just got T-boned (totaled his car), so I've pulled my MM out & gotten it roadworthy (minor stuff) and just pretty much gave it to him.

    It's been a while so my memory is foggy, so... only issue is: oil pressure dash light is coming on very dimly: have to squint to see it during daylight, but at night looks like it's on. I posted about this couple years ago here. Airtex's stock switch closes @ 3-9 psi.

    Terminals on mine are labelled: P, G & I. I just wanted to check with you guys, see if anyone can see why that light comes on. I is hooked up to ignition (idea elec. fuel pump only on when there's oil pressure AND ignition in run position). I'll have to pull skid plate and check how I wired other 2 terminals.

    Hoping someone (Brad) has a "light come on" <g> and can see why idiot light is on (however dimly).

    Hope you're all doing well, & thanks again for help getting that little truck going. It runs like a top!

  5. #205



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    Quote Originally Posted by jdmckay View Post
    Hi,

    1st time back here in a long time... after I got my MM going with Weber and electric fuel pump, just got busy and truck has been parked. A close friend just got T-boned (totaled his car), so I've pulled my MM out & gotten it roadworthy (minor stuff) and just pretty much gave it to him.

    It's been a while so my memory is foggy, so... only issue is: oil pressure dash light is coming on very dimly: have to squint to see it during daylight, but at night looks like it's on. I posted about this couple years ago here. Airtex's stock switch closes @ 3-9 psi.

    Terminals on mine are labelled: P, G & I. I just wanted to check with you guys, see if anyone can see why that light comes on. I is hooked up to ignition (idea elec. fuel pump only on when there's oil pressure AND ignition in run position). I'll have to pull skid plate and check how I wired other 2 terminals.

    Hoping someone (Brad) has a "light come on" <g> and can see why idiot light is on (however dimly).
    Hope you're all doing well, & thanks again for help getting that little truck going. It runs like a top!
    Hi,
    If I was you I would install a oil pressure gauge and that will tell you exactly what your pressure is. Your sensor may be going bad or it is not grounded correctly. If you get a gauge, be sure to try and get the sensor type of gauge and not the plastic oil line kind of gauge. I think there is a law against having hot flammable liquids from the engine coming into the driver compartment. Plus they can get messy when the oil line gets a hole in it.
    You can also stick a brass "Y" on the engine block and attach both sensors so you can keep your idiot light and the gauge as well.
    Last edited by BradMph; 04-12-2016 at 12:07 AM.

  6. #206



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    "Presently doing Brake Job"

    Doing a front brake job on the truck. This is the first time I had to turn the rotors because of a subtle pedal pulsating. When removing the calipers on passenger side, I noticed the brake pad plate that sits between the pad and caliper had slipped a little and got itself kind of stuck in a strange way. Probably what caused the rotor to get warped a little, who knows. I will use a little more brake pad glue this time so the pads don't shift.
    I turned the rotors in to be resurfaced and the shop said that I had just enough meat left on the rotor to turn them. He measured them and said this would be the last time they could be turned. This surprises the heck out of me, the rotors look like they are almost 3/4in thick with not center air venting on them. The shop said this is the first time they ever saw disk so thick. (me too, lol) These rotors I would consider super heavy duty disk from the size of the width they have.
    Oh well, the shop finished them and they look very nice again and I am good to go. I cleaned out the rotors of all the old grease and put bearings in solvent. The bearings are still in excellent condition, so I repacked them and installed new oil seals on rotors. I used high temp (red) grease to pack bearings. I also bought new metallic brake pads so I didn't get that ceramic black dust all over the wheels. I haven't had that problem before and I am not going to start having it now.
    I should be able to have the truck down off lift tomorrow and rotate the tires as well. I can't be any happier about the wear of the tires though. Having a lowered truck, it has always maintained a perfect alignment. I thank this to always greasing the front parts twice a year. Each part of the front end has a zerk fitting installed and think Mitsubishi did real good by doing this at the factory for this truck.
    I don't know if you all ever feel like you just had enough with cars all together. In the day, I would work all day on the vehicles and finish in no time. Now, it takes me days to finish stuff and it isn't any fun no more. I procrastinate doing the work now and hope I never have to as long as possible. I can thank getting older I guess for this BS. It's getting harder and harder to get up off the ground with the knees I have. I need to find me a stool with rollers so I can scoot around instead of getting up and down constantly. I also maintain 4 cars and a boat which could be part of this as well.
    Anyway, we will be doing more work to the truck to prepare for another California road trip coming soon. I think I am also dreading this too, but once I get on the road and away from home I think it will be nice. It is a well deserved trip and looking forward to it as long as everything goes good. I definitely don't want to be stuck out in booney land with a broken down ride.

  7. #207



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    Tightening torques of the wheel bearings are as follows.

    You all know to pack the bearings, I use high temp and hand pack the bearings. Once you have everything back together and are putting on the main spindle nut, use this procedure to make sure the nut is correctly tightened.

    The Book Says...
    Torque the spindle nut to 22 ft. lbs, Then back it off and re-tighten to 6 ft. lbs. Put your carter pin on and cap. Replace the wheel and tighten the lugs to 75 to 80 ft. lbs. After you have installed the wheel, grab the top and bottom of the wheel while it is still on jack stands and shake the wheel forward and backward to check for play in the bearing. You should not feel any play, but also you should be able to spin the wheel freely and not be grinding or sticky.
    My father in law taught me how to do it without a torque wrench.
    Tighten the nut down to pull everything together (bearings) next, back it off and then re-tighten to as hard as you can with hand tight, maybe just a 1/2 turn more. Then you back the nut off just enough so it sort of feels like it went over a notch. It takes a bit to get the feel of that notch feeling when backing the nut off, but it usually works out to be the first spot on the nut that you can insert the carter pin through . Replace the cap and you should be good to go.

  8. #208

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    If the brake pedal is pulsing due to warping from overheating IMO you should never get them machined. The metal has already been stressed and the next time it will more than likely crack (if there aren't hairline cracks in it already). Solid disc rotors are not great at heat dissipation but it's the technology that was available for the manufacturers' budget at the time. And if you're changing one, you're changing both sides. Brakes are something you really don't want to get wrong.

    Also, from my own experience - you ever notice some of the undulations on a disc seem higher and 'bright' looking? I've run a file across a disc and removed these as it is nothing more than metal from the pads that has binded itself to the disc face (actually I've done things far more brutal than using a file but I wouldn't condone or recommend it to anybody other than the foolhardy or the brave...)

  9. #209



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    I really don't think I will have an issue with the brakes being turned, it's normal procedure. The pulsating just started and it was so subtle you could hardly feel it. The reason I had it done was because I am taking truck on a long drive. It allowed me to grease all the zerks and the bearings, wire brush the collected road dirt off suspension parts, inspect and check for any bad ball joints or tie-rod ends.
    I know there are no cracks in the rotors, after 28+years they just needed a minor amount removed on resurfacing for a good contact with brake pads. I have never heard of a rotor cracking as well. These rotors are thick and doubt very much they would crack.
    We have extreme weather here and they would crack under the heat or cold before just applying the brakes. I also have always taken care of this truck and don't abuse these types of items. My first set of tires I installed lasted over 80K miles, which is 128747.52 Kilometers.
    The brakes also have air ducting built into the shield. There was no sign at all of an over heated rotor, grease was still in great shaped, not cooked, and the bearings were definitely not worth replacing because of their condition.
    I also feel that the rotors would of remained fine except for the backing plate that I mentioned that sits between the pad and the caliper. It somehow worked loose from the plunger side pad only and shifted to one side. This most likely allowed the pad to wobble ever so slightly and created the irregular surface.
    I have full faith in the truck and the shop that turned them. He specified the limit that he could remove from the rotor and I really don't think 2 mm or 1mm from each side will effect the rotor to a point of disintegration.

    rotors.jpg
    Last edited by BradMph; 04-20-2016 at 06:06 PM.

  10. #210

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    I've encountered plenty of cracked rotors on solid and vented discs as a result of being overheated (o.k. not on a MM/D50 specifically). In fact I've only recently replaced the rotors on my Lantra Sportswagon that were both cracked and warped (it had been used by the PO to tow a caravan - just stupid...) On any vehicle I've owned that has had a brake issue I've tried to source a direct bolt-on upgrade to avoid the problem coming back to haunt me.

  11. #211



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    Tonight I did some painting and some shining.
    Pulled the grill and repainted the flat black over, looks new again. Then waxed on and waxed off the entire truck. Grabbed the drill and buffer pad and shined that baby up. It's time for a new paint job and I think when I get back from road trip I will look into this. For a red paint job that is 30 years old, it has held up great. It still shines, but it is also thinning.
    Not sure if I mentioned before that I also took some 1000 grit wet sand paper and did all the rims. After that I hit them with a little comet to get the stains out. I use to use acid wash and it did a fantastic job on these aluminum rims. I did buy some acid from a chemical dealer out here, but it just isn't the same stuff as I used before. The tanker truckers use an acid wash that works great, I just need to locate a place that sells this special blend chemical.

  12. #212



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    You haven't had fun in your life until you have bled the brake lines of your truck with the wifey at the wheel, LOL. It took a little longer, but it was a learning process for us both.
    What a team. Brakes are working better then ever.

  13. #213



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    Ordered new material for the tonnuea cover on my truck and found a very good price for the material.

    Black Elk Material is for making bed covers, make sure it comes with the thread reinforced backing.

    material.jpg
    Ebay $10.99 for 66in. x 36in. X3
    Shipping was higher then I would of liked it, but it was better then buying it local for $23.99 a yard x60in.
    I picked up all the canvas snaps and the snap gun. I won't be pounding the snaps on this time which will make the job faster and cleaner. I have to take material in to an upholstery shop to have a border stitched on then I will finish the rest.

    The entire cover was about $80-$90 which is much better then 300-400 bucks with the snaps. These covers make our trucks look real nice and they also are aero-dynamic, keeping wind from banging against the bed of the truck like an air brake.

    I have tinted back slider glass and repainted the frame and it looks brand new again.. I will be tinting the side windows in the morning with some quality tint that does not turn purple and fade, plus it keeps 43% of heat out and almost 99% of UV from hitting the interior.

    Still on schedule for road trip.

    I bought GPS for the trip since last time I got off track in Oregon. It is a Garmin 2597LMT with lifetime map updates and also has lifetime "live" traffic updates too.
    I had a big credit on Amazon for trying their Credit Card and got the GPS for around $48. It regulary sells for over $125.
    Animation1.gif
    Last edited by BradMph; 04-19-2016 at 08:44 PM.

  14. #214



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    Just got back from vacation in California visiting daughter and grand-kids. Truck ran incredibly both directions with a gas mileage from 24.9 to 27.5 on Highway driving with a driving time of about 17 hours from WA to Mariposa, Southern Cal near Yosemite area.
    Mostly Highway 5 and 99. It never skipped a beat and climbed Mt. Shasta area with ease. It only went through 1/2 quart of oil the entire 2000+ miles @ 70 to 90mph.
    If any of you go to California, be prepared for high speed freeway driving, lol. It is normal procedure to drive 80+mph on their roadways and have a highway patrolman right next to you doing the same thing. Actually the HP avoid the freeways pretty much during the busy periods and is a free for all, so be prepared for stop and go traffic around big cities.
    You might want to bring a Frisbee to play with if you jump into a commute time because it is incredibly bad during this period of times. I chose to try and drive during the off period times, but still got caught up around Sacramento area on 99. I can imagine LA is a fuggin mess around the 9am and 5pm times, it's asshole to belly button there so be warned.

    Nice to be back, grass is a foot long and wifey is dead on the couch and animals are doing what they want. LOL!

  15. #215



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    Pulled truck into garage to check universal joints. Noise sounds like a loose bolt on muffler and kind of swirling screechy sound, so I hope it's the U-Joints. If not, trany will be pulled to replace throw out bearing and maybe a pilot bearing.

  16. #216



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    Well, since I have so many cars now, lol. I have been procrastinating on checking out the truck further. I lifted the rear axle and tires off the ground and ran thru the gears and changed to reverse and what not to check U-joints, but still have not confirmed the problem. It surely sounds like it comes from the back end of the truck and sounds very much like a loose spring in a brake drum rattling. It is not consistent at all and happens only when clutch is out and rolling along or taking off from a stop.
    I dropped the driveshaft at the differential and the u-joints don't seem bad at all. Free and no excessive play. I am going to pull rear wheels and check inside the drums for anything loose or if I picked up something off the road.
    I also don't think it is a clutch plate spring or throw-out bearing yet because it is not continuously making the noise.

    I'll update soon as I crawl under truck again and search deeper. I just don't have the energy that I use to have and being sidetracked with other things on my plate.

  17. #217

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    Hi, currently rebuilding my 79 d50 sport. Just got the original engine and transmission rebuilt and ready to go back in, once all is running then time for body and paint. The body is actually almost mint other than a couple holes in each door from those damn elephant ear mirrors,
    need to track down a windshield rubber gasket or trim... heard you have quite a stock pile of parts

  18. #218



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    Quote Originally Posted by 79d-50 View Post
    Hi, currently rebuilding my 79 d50 sport. Just got the original engine and transmission rebuilt and ready to go back in, once all is running then time for body and paint. The body is actually almost mint other than a couple holes in each door from those damn elephant ear mirrors,
    need to track down a windshield rubber gasket or trim... heard you have quite a stock pile of parts

    Hi, been a while but you may contact Camoit on a gasket or Safe-Lite auto glass.

  19. #219



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    I have a weird noise coming from my truck. Sounds like it is coming from the rear portion of the truck and it doesn't make it as bad on accelleration, but mostly when I lift off the gas. It sounds identical to what a loose bolt would sound like on the exhaust. Kind of that chirping with a whirling to it. I have pulled the driveshaft and U-joints seem fine. No leakage or rust and they look lube. I also thoroughly looked under the truck for a loose bolt and shook the muffler to see if something broke inside the muffler. With the rear end lifted, I free spinn the axel and driveshaft and it seems to be smooth with no catching or scraping.
    I thought maybe a throw out bearing, but the noise will sound off when the clutch is out and in gear running. I can double clutch while driving and the nose returns back when in gear, but stops when clutch is pushed in.
    The noise doesn't seem to be getting worse yet, it has gotten to this point and leveled out. I have raise the rear up and ran the gears and got it to make noise, but not every time. I have to kind of pop it a bit and it's subtle. A friend of mine said it might be the clutch balance weights, but it sounds like the back half of the truck. I have yet to check wheel bearing, but that would always make noise.
    I might tape my camera to the axle housing and see if I can get sound on video.

    Any ideas? before I chase this thing all over.

  20. #220




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    what about the carrier bearing - that would make that noise and is in the right place. You might not be able to shake it to see if it is bad.
    Pennyman1
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    Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980

  21. #221



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    Quote Originally Posted by pennyman1 View Post
    what about the carrier bearing - that would make that noise and is in the right place. You might not be able to shake it to see if it is bad.
    The carrier bearing was new at rebuild. Probably 5K to 10K miles on it now. Wouldn't this bearing always make noise if it was bad? Gas on or Gas off? I put my finger in the grease hole and the grease isn't cooked and there is still plenty in the hole.

  22. #222



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    Ok, I made a video of the sound my truck is making. Anyone have an idea what this might be?



  23. #223



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    I have located some very good LED lights for our trucks and wanted to share them with everyone. I have replace the entire dash lighting on my Toyota MR2 and was so happy with the performance, color, brightness and also allowed the dimmer to work, that I installed them in my truck too. I ordered the turn signal/flasher lights in green, the bright light indicator light in blue and the rest in white light, in addition to assorted for HVAC display. The dimmer still works with these LED lights as well.
    Here are the LED lights I purchased on Ebay

    White Lights
    20 Superwhite.gif

    Green Turn Signal Lights
    turn signal 2.gif

    Blue Bright Lights Light
    blue lites 2.gif

    Assorted Variety for HVAC Control Area and Customizing Display - Small LED
    assorted.gif
    Last edited by BradMph; 09-30-2017 at 06:31 PM.

  24. #224

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    Need to take a pic of the end result Brad. The factory lighting in Gen 1's is on par with a couple of tea candles - barely. Still haven't found the source of your noise yet Brad?

  25. #225

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    O.k. about to rebuild the tail shaft in my Gen 1 (2 piece) and already have the centre carrier bearing. Anyone have links to compatible part numbers as a cross reference? I have GMB 220-0081 and I just want to confirm this is the right part before placing an order. Any traps? Like 2 different joints? Don't want to get stuck with wrong parts or having to place a second order. Thanks!

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