"Mitsy" '86 Repairs, Renew, Rebuild, Replace

[BradMph]

I think your right PM, I was looking in the tiny oilers of the rods and it looks like there is cylinder grinding compound in them. I'm going to tear open the oil filter also and see if I didn't have an oil filter failure as well. This BS shouldn't of happen and by the looks of these rod bearing it looks like the other 3 were going to do what the first one did.
DSCF0005.jpg
I am going to go through this engine myself this time and do all the mike checking and installation myself. I felt intimidated before about it, but I think it's a better time then ever to do it myself.
I purchased and inside diameter measuring tool set (shown in next post)
and a micrometer tool set shown here.
micrometer.jpg
I have to wait to order the main bearings until I mike the clearances and bores of the engine.
The 87 truck doner I had and using parts from for this repair has the larger oil pump I want to use as well.
I'm going to just take my time and get everything the best I can get it and with better parts.

On the piston, there is oilers on both sides to oil the wristpin and one going down center of the rod for rod bearing. The rod stem oiler looks to have some clogging.
UPDATE: Oilers are clear on rods.

[BradMph]

These are some mike measures I have taken to prepare for the bearing sets.
MyMeaurements.jpg

I purchased this tool set to measure the inside diameters of the bearing housings. If you never seen one of these, the "T" shape compresses on the top bar and you place it in the spot to measure and release the spring. After you the size, you lock it and then measure the length of the top rod which I used a simple dial micrometer. I am waiting for my more accurate micrometer set to arrive so I can get that extra digit more accurate
inside_diameter_tool.jpg

Things came out pretty good even using the poor mans way to measure the clearances. Basically I could order what had been installed before which was 0.25 rod bearings and the 0.10 crank bearings but I wanted to teach myself this process at least once. I am still going to back myself up with using plastic gauge for oil clearance setting.
I also have these great documents to help me get things right also.
Specs.jpg
Download Your Own Copy of This Specs Page
Clearance & Torques.zip

Clevite has a basic formula to figure out oil clearance that they show in a great catalog available for download. It show failure diagnosing and much more. Here is a section on proper clearance.

How much clearance do your bearings need?

How much clearance do I need for my rod, main or camshaft bearings? This is one of the most frequently asked questions. Unfortunately, there isn’t one simple answer that suits every case. Engine application, lubricant selection and operating conditions will dictate different clearance levels. This isn’t to say we can’t generalize on at least a starting point. First, let’s define how and where clearance should be measured. Half shell rod and main bearings do not have a uniform wall. The wall is thickest at 90 degrees from the split and drops off a prescribed amount toward each parting line, depending on the bearings intended application. This drop off is called “Eccentricity.” In addition, there is a relief at the parting lines. Eccentricity is used to tailor the bearing shell to its mating hardware and to provide for hardware deflections in operation. Eccentricity also helps to promote oil film formation by providing a wedge shape in the clearance space. The relief at each parting line insures that there will not be a step at the split line due to bearing cap shift or the mating of bearing shells that differ slightly in thickness within allowed tolerance limits. (See figure 1.) figure 1.gif

For these reasons, bearing clearances are specified as “vertical clearance” and must be measured at 90 degrees to the split line. The best method of measurement is with a dial bore gage that measures the bearing inside diameter when the bearings are installed at the specified torque without the shaft in place. Measurements should be taken at front, center and rear of each bearing position. Another common method of checking clearance is through the use of For most applications .00075 to .0010” (three quarters to one thousandth of an inch) of clearance per inch of shaft diameter is a reasonable starting point. For example a 2.000” shaft diameter would require .0015 to .0020” bearing clearance. (.00075 X 2.000” = .0015” and .0010 X 2.000” = .0020”) Using this formula will provide a safe starting point for most applications. For high performance engines it is recommended that .0005” be added to the maximum value determined by the above calculation. The recommendation for our 2.000” shaft would be .0025” of clearance. figure 2.gif

[BradMph]

Got some parts in, Gaskets, Rod Bearings and tomorrow the micrometers and a balance shaft kit and I need to get some plastic gauge which I procrastinate on getting. I need to order main bearings, but can't until micrometers show up. I'm also reading up on this bearing stuff. It's so important to be correct and I want it to be the best way it can. There is so many decisions on how it will be driven and the oil to use and clearance settings and measuring, and rechecking yourself and hope it is all right. Well, we will see I guess.


bearing.jpg

[pennyman1]

use a zddp breakin oil like compcams or edelbrock, then use a zddp oil like brad-penn or amsoil

[BradMph]

Any suggestions for initial startup grease or engine build grease?


Well, I got more delivery today and also went to Harbor Freight, Check this out.

This Micrometer Pittsburg Item# 66512 set I ordered special through HF at an unbelievable price. The reviews are outstanding for
these and said to be extremely accurate. I will be calibrating mine to reassure their as good as customers say.
Regular $39.99, I used discount code number 93481220 which marked it down another $10, to $29.99
Shipping was $6.99 and tax brought the entire purchase to $40.00
Micrometer.jpg

Today I went Harbor Freight and got this stuff on this coupon page. These coupons are good until April 30th 2014
Animation6.gif

I also picked up a 4 piece floor standing pad system for $7.00 and is about 6ft x 6ft and 3/4in thick.

I agree you need to watch the stuff purchased at HF, but in many many cases the prices are just remarkable and quality is beyond anything anywhere else. These are the widely hunted items, well worth their price by a huge amount. I also received a FREE LED flashlight and 25ft tape measure. The stuff is solid, quality stuff...all of it. Take the coupons and use them yourself. I got the full size torque wrench 1/2 inch drive ft. pounds and also got a inch pounds shorter one too.

[DroppedMitsu]

I always shop at HF, that's where a lot of my tools are from. You just have to stay away from certain items and also read reviews to make sure the tools work/perform correctly.

[BradMph]

Well, just waiting on the King Main Bearings to show up (twiddling thumbs). I decided on these...
SKU: KIN-MB5227XP
King Engine Racing Bearings MB5227XP
$55.25 + $7.76 for shipping. I got 35% marked down for shipping since I found a promo code online.
I ordered them through Autoplicity which had the best price and guaranteed fit policy. I sent them the specs for the .025 oversized bearings and hope the oil clearance falls into place. I have a pretty wide area to play with at .0008 to .0020 inch clearance so it should be close.
I noticed that I also could of ordered them through Sears also!! Kind of surprised me when I did a search and this company showed up and the prices were really good for them. Some places just plane ole were ripping people off at around a hundred bucks for the set and Sears was like $55.
I finished the front plate assembly last night with all new seals and the parts mix with the doner truck parts went perfect. I now have the larger oil pump and since the balance shafts from the doner truck were so perfect I went with installing them one final time. Installing them in place of my old shafts tightened the things right up nice. My original ones were on the slop side and probably did some vibrating from the marks I noticed on them.
I'm also going to pull the number 3 piston out and see why the wrist pin is sticky. There doesn't seem to be any grooves on the pin, but there just seems to be a little too much stiffness with it. The other 3 piston pins are well broken in and move freely compared to the 3rd. It feels smooth, but possibly has a little bend in it that needs attention. I was hoping to pull it through the bottom and out, but now way. I will have to pull the head off and remove it that way.
I am looking for a machine shop to lighten the flywheel. My machinist is busy and I don't want to wait a week for this. I checked prices on an aluminum flywheel and gawd they are pricey. Maybe I'll post a wanted item in the forum and see if I can get one for a reasonable price.
Well, that's where I am at now and I'll update as I can.

[BradMph]

Today was a good day for package delivery. I received my main bearings from King Bearing MB5227XP.
They have a tri-metal racing coating that I hope will save me in case of another failure like I had. Their test
show good results on the dry oil test shown in the download below. I think I will install an idiot light too since
my oil pressure gauge is on the lower console and doesn't get the instant attention that it should.
mb5382xpg.jpgKB_described.jpg
I have yet to gauge the bearings and might give it a try tonight if I am feeling brave. If they are too tight, the crank needs to be turned to fit them. If they are too lose, I will need to order a replacement that fits.

I thought I would upload the King Bearing Material information documentation on their bearings if you would like to view it. They give a pretty good description and testing of their bearing design.
Engine_Bearing_Materials.zip


Here is a list of bearing companies in case your looking...
*King Bearing
*ACL
*Clevite
*Federal Mogul
*Topline
*Engine Pro
*Engine Tech
*RockAuto
*Sealed Power

[BradMph]

Let me first say, the order was not correct and Autoplicity did not pass my message that I needed the .025 bearings which are a thicker bearing. They sent the standard size, which I imagine is stock size because they were short of compressing the plastic gauge. I decided to check the size anyway with the standard size and they are definitely not going to work. Here are the images of the test and as you can see the plastic gauge is barely touched.
pgauge1.jpgpgauge2.jpg
pgauge3.jpgpgauge4.jpg

Now if I am wrong someone correct me here because I am no pro at this clearance test stuff and I want to get correct. Here are the numbers...

The torque on the main bearing caps was 37-39 ft. lbs.
The required oil clearance for the main bearings is...
0.0008in. to 0.0020in. which = 0.02mm to 0.05mm


My test with standard size bearings which shows in the photos above displays an excessive clearance by at least...
0.025mm My maximum clearance should of squashed the gauge to the .051

In the photos it shows a little less then the 70's mark (0.070's mm) on the plastic gauge packaging, so to decrease the oil clearance to
at least the 0.05mm maximum that is my required oil clearance I would need the 0.025mm size bearing like I should of got. If I am not
mistaken and correct me if I am, the 025mm bearing is the same as the 010 in. bearing. To be exact the 010 comes out to be 0984252 in.

So, the big question I have is...are my figures correct? If I got the 025 bearings, would these bearings decrease my oil clearance to a
closer and compatible oil clearance of 0.0008in. to 0.0020in. which = 0.02mm to 0.05mm range?

[BradMph]

I figured I would post the Plastic Gauge colors and clearances they are used for.
The green is what I have been using for the rod and main bearing checking.

PlasticGauge.jpg

Plastigauge .001 in. to .003 in. / .025 mm to .075 mm (Green) Plastigauge .002 in. to .006 in. / .050 mm to .150 mm (Red) Plastigauge .004 in. to .009 in. / .10 mm to .228 mm (Blue) Plastigauge .009 in. to .020 in. / .228 mm to .51 mm (Yellow)

[BradMph]

Picked up new set of .025 Kingbearings and installed them today. The gauge test was great. All the gauges were identical and that is what you want. I am right near the upper area for clearance so I torque the main bearings a couple ft. pounds more to shrink the clearance just a bit.
Here are the test.
crankgauged.jpg
journal.jpgjournal2.jpg

They specify that .002in is max clearance and I am happy with this turn out. With the extra torque it should fall into a safe spot and I can use a little thicker oil if there is any problems but it should be fine.

Here is how you protect the crank for placement so they rod studs. don't scratch it.
Rodprotect.jpg

I also did some dremel work on the oil trails at the front of the block. The cast was cluttered with some flash in the oil trail at the front plate. This should help a little to speed up the flow, with the large oil pump too.

am now gauging the rod ends to the crank and I have a feeling it could be a little tight. If not I will bolt them on and we will be moving towards finishing very soon. I am going to pull a piston that has a stiff wrist pin on it and see if any debris is causing it. Well, back to work.

[BradMph]

Getting close to install motor. Need to rewire distributor and check bearing and gasket on transmission. I also need to do a oil pumping through the engine to make sure it is getting some pressure since that was the issue this all had to be done. It should be ok since now the number one rod bearing has a working oiler. We will run a video on the startup when it's ready. I have not been in any rush while trying to make sure everything is torqued properly and pre-run lubed.
E1.jpgE2.jpg

[DroppedMitsu]

Looking good, hope everything goes according to plan come start up. Good info on bearings and plastigauge/clearance. I've been meaning to do some reading up on it for when I go to rebuild my 4g63.

[BradMph]

I finally put the engine back into the truck and filled the fluids. I put some more lucas zinc in the oil, squirted oil in cylinders and also used black molly pre-assembly lube grease on all the new moving parts. Nothing started leaking so far. I pulled the plugs and coil wire and crank the motor for a few to see if oil pressure will come up, but it doesn't. Seems you have to get the motor (oil pump) spinning pretty fast to even phase the pressure on the gauge. I'm pretty sure the oil will pressurize when it starts and if not, I'll shut it off even quicker.

These are the product lines I use on a regular basis in case your interested. Not sure if it's force of habit or they are actually pretty good OEM replacement items etc.
MyTruckProducts.jpg
Click for expanded view

I did a stupid thing tonight and feel like an idiot for doing it. I used a torque wrench on crank bolt to turn motor to TDC for a dizzy re-drop and forgot the torque wrench was still on the crank bolt and I flicked the starter and herd this big thud! I thought oh crap something broke again in motor. I went to the engine bay and my torque wrench spun with crank about 1/2 turn and flop landed on passenger inner fender still attached. No damage to either object but I was kicking myself out of the garage at that time. It could of been worse if hood was down I guess or it broke the weakest item it could find. Thanks to ratcheting torque wrenches it just made an eye opening thump sound when it swung over. Sometimes I scare myself, lol.
Anyway, I put plugs back in connected wires and tried to get it lit up, but no spark from coil. Tomorrow I'll check this problem since I was exhausted tonight. Something I probably forgot to reconnect or coil needs replacing, it's most likely the first choice.

If things don't work out with these repairs by some freak thing that might happen, The engine is going on the stand for good w/trany.
The truck will be getting updated to v8 and trany. I'm tired of the BS with these Mits motors.
I really like what this guy in this video has done and will probably use the same setup. Changes were minimal and access to engine components is clean. I think this is one of the cleanest swaps I've seen.

[BradMph]

Well, the truck started after a little investigating with the coil issue. Actually it was not the coil, it was the dizzy module. 86 Mitsubishi MM 2.0L has 2 wires leaving the dizzy and connecting to the coil. There is one blue wire and one black wire. Mitsubishi decided that Black will go to positive and blue to negative. I figured black would be ground and connecting this way burned the module. Not to big a deal when you have 3 backups. So, I removed the dizzy and replaced the modules that were in there as a pair. Pretty simple thing to do, but you must be sure to gap the unit to the rotor shaft. I gapped it about 10 thousanths and reinstalled the dizzy and corrected my wiring.
I did a double check on motor and then got in truck and cranked her up. The truck started immediately and the oil pressure followed about 10 seconds later. It jumped to about 80 on the oil gauge as the choke engaged. I gave it a little jab on the gas and got a response from the balance shaft that sounded like a loose fan belt. I had a feeling the bearing was a little snug on this part. So, I started to rev the throttle slower and evenly up and down, then holding at 2500 rpms and letting off, trying to seat the bearing. Well, this worked and the sound disappeared. The engine sounded very good in fact. Responsive and healthy again. I ran the motor long enough to burn the paint onto the header and just prior to the thermostat opening and shut her down.
Well, I think it is good...no leaks, no burned bearing, no problems. I will get up early tomorrow and take the truck for a wash. I am going to take the side roads so I can listen to how it does. I need to retime the dizzy and check for any leaking

[BradMph]

The truck is running very well after the work done. I have absolutely no leaking at all from anywhere on the motor. So, I hope I fixed that main rear seal finally. Going to adjust the flat tappets in a few days and try to get them to be a little less noise. Though this is typical of the mighty max trucks that have this type of head, it doesn't hurt anything. I have a assembly set of roller rockers with rod and cam, but that may go to something else.

Here's a short video of the initial drive down the road after completing.

[Fordubishi]

Wohoo race truck !!!!!

[BradMph]

Wohoo race truck !!!!!

I been going around town eating up V8 mini-trucks. After that I'm headed to Canada to find some more.

Actually for the 2.0L it gets off it's ass and moves pretty darn good. While it still runs...it will give me a vehicle to start hauling the V8 stuff I need at home that I'm getting at the local yard.

[BradMph]

Working on some fine tuning and odds and ends that need to be done.

*Adjusted the valves, this time using a better method of degree of the cam shaft. Exhaust valves were needing adjustment a bit more then the intake this time.
*Started to reinforce the header from tapping the frame on occasion by using a bracket off the old exhaust system. Putting a rubber grommet between it and the frame should suppress the tapping and vibration.
*Started wire brushing rims to give them and update.

ToDo
*Need to reconnect the 87 digital clock on my 86 where it is installed in the installed Ram50 console.
*Install 2 dash lights into my oil pressure and voltage gauges that are installed in the console as well.
*Fix box door using a strip of leather for a hinge method since the factory cheap plastic has worn completely.
*Remove and replace tint on rear window and probably side windows too.
*Shorten shift throw if it can be done.

I'll leave list as it is now until I catch up with it.

[pennyman1]

find a stedebani shifter for a starquest - they have been out of production, but there was someone on the starquest forum that was supposed to start making them - check there. I have one in Geronimo, but its the straight shaft one instead of the 15 degree bent on - that is why my shifter handle is spun 180 from the way it should be because I punch the dash on 1,3,and 5th gear shifts otherwise

[BradMph]

find a stedebani shifter for a starquest - they have been out of production, but there was someone on the starquest forum that was supposed to start making them - check there. I have one in Geronimo, but its the straight shaft one instead of the 15 degree bent on - that is why my shifter handle is spun 180 from the way it should be because I punch the dash on 1,3,and 5th gear shifts otherwise

I was wondering why your dash had that indentation there.
Thanks PM, I will check that info and see what I can find out.

[BradMph]

Took a look under my truck to see if anything is leaking and damn I was surprised that not even a drop of any fluids have found their way out of the truck yet. I need to order some larger jet for carb, the 65/55 idle jets will be tried first. Also the kit carbs unlimited has that requires a modification looks interesting. One more thing is that linkage sinc kit that makes the 32/36 progressive linkage into a sincronized linkage that opens both barrels at the same time. Lots of bottom end torque and not a big gain on upper end. Exactly what I am looking for. The Weber 40 downdraft is another prospective that looks good. So far so good the truck is running superb for me right now. I am feeling confident that the clearances I gave the bearing replacement will help to keep things together.
A little tweaking to the carb with some new jets and we will be good to go. I fixed the exhaust rattle and that also is a plus. One more thing also is the gauge lights. I have everything ready and just need to drill the hole larger in the back and place the copper connection stuff for the twist in lights.

[BradMph]

Ordered a set of idle jets for the carb today and I went with the next upper size from base line 60/50 size on both primary and secondary idle jets. I also ordered a new sponge washable dome filter so air doesn't have to come in from the sides and over the edge of the carb like on the filters sold with the weber. I ordered from pierce manifolds in California since the price and shipping rate was very reasonable for Weber OEM.

Code Name Price Qty Total
74403.055 IDLE JETS
74403.055 $4.36 1 $4.36
74409.065 IDLE JET
74409.065 $4.36 1 $4.36
1038
1038 AIR FILTER FOR WEBER 32/36 DGV $35.88 1 $35.88
1038-2.jpg

Going to finish installing the lights for the important aftermarket gauges I installed and should finish tonight with the last one.

[BradMph]

Here is the install.
DSCF0001.jpgDSCF0003.jpgDSCF0002.jpg

I want to pull the timing covers and plex-glass them.
Here is an example of how it may look.
Plex-glass.jpg

I decided to add some information to this post about a cam gear sprocket update for us 1st gen trucks with the 2.0L engine.
Posting information as I come across it helps me go back and retrieve it for later use.
This particular additional information is credited to Geezer101 of this forum for a post he made about an update for the 2.0 4G63 cam sprocket. It replaces the stock sprocket to an adjustable sprocket. Though the sprocket will not make a real big change in horsepower if any, but it is a great looking machined piece that would dress up any 2.0L with it installed. I will mention now that there are some modification to be done to the sprocket to fit some 2.0L motors. Not all will have these problems possibly, but it is a good idea to be warned ahead of time so you can make the adjustments.
(all sprockets used on the 2.0L SOHC 1st gen motors will require some machining)

1)The sprocket may interfear with the timing cover because of it being wider. (Have it machined if needed)
2)The cam pin hole may need to be increased to fit the 2.0L cam pin. (Simply drill it out to size)
3)The sprocket time mark will be straight up 12 o'clock instead of at the 9 o'clock stock mark. (OK as is)
4)The final issue is that according to Geezer101 the sprocket was approximately 4° off when installed. (adjust it)

Cam Sprocket Science in Theory for SOHC 8valve
Power/Mileage & Power Band - (Don't want to move sprocket in either direction more then 4° on a SOHC).

Advanced =better gas mileage
Retard = more power

Power Band
Advance - moves it up
Retard - moves it down


HK5Motors Cam Sprocket
6-cg-4g63-sohc-bl-2.jpgboxlabel.jpg
HKMotorshttp://www.hk5motors.com
INSTRUCTION MANUAL NOT INCLUDED
Item Number: 1 x Cam Gear 6-CG-4G63-SOHC-BL
Package Includes:
Fitment: Vehicles with Mitsubishi 4G63 2.0L SOHC engines ONLY.
Installation:
PROFESSIONAL INSTALLATION IS STRONGLY RECOMMENDED FOR THIS PRODUCT.
Professional installation is always recommended, products damaged through self-installation will not be refunded.
If HK5motors does not have the part in stock, you can find them on Ebay between $35.00 to $50.00 delivered.

fidanza.gif Cam Sprocket Fidenza.jpg Part# FI961999 Price: $75.00 to $140.00 usually shipping from Australia

fidanza.gif Cam Sprocket FI961994.jpg Part# FI961994 Price: $150.00 usually shipping from Australia

[BradMph]

OK, My quest is almost over with the Trany Mount confusion (more like obsessed) issues. The trany mount arrived today in a Beck Arnley box as the FedEx guy rang the doorbell and ran away like a bat out of hell. Funny how these drivers take their jobs so seriously,

Anyway here is the part I paid just over $5 for + shipping of $8. Notice it is from Japan also, It is most likely an OEM part which was bought up by BA. Avoid anything you buy for our trucks that comes from China. Unless you want to replace it again real soon.

tranymount1.jpgtranymount2.jpgtranymount3.jpg