2.4 build questions
hi guys im new here, i am about to start build for my mighty max, going to be a daliy driver fun truck
im going to do a sohc 4g64 with about 8 - 10lbs of boost on average, but wanna turn it up to 12-15 once in a while
i was wondering what pistons should i use and were can i get them?
i read on other sites that my stock rods and crank will hold that amount of power is this true?
the head is a sohc 8v unit, im going to port and polish, 1mm over valves and 5angle valve job, and maybe a cam regrind but unsure yet
were can i get upgraded springs, lifters and valves?
wanna use megasquirt but unsure of which one to use?
will a td05 be a good size turbo for this setup?
can i use upgraded fuel rail, fuel press regulator and injectors (think they are 550s) and walbro 255 pump for a 2.4 sohc eclipse ( can get free)
i know that i can use the exhaust manifold off of a 4g63t( also free)
what elese can i use off of 4g63t i have a friend that has alot of parts for one.
thanks for the help
comments and sugestions are welcome
You can use the exhaust manifold? I didn't know that. I would use the 2.4 low comp pistons and swap the head for the 4g63 dohc head. Opens up a whole lot of aftermarket support. They already make the 2.4 pistons for the 4g64 as well as the 4gcs block. A small dsm trick is that a ported 2g exhaust manifold can outperform a lot of tubular manifolds out there. Your oem rods are like the 4g63 1st gen big rods.
yes the exhaust manifold fit perfect, the intake is a lil different, ive been told to do the swap but ive already got another sohc head laying here, and i wanna stay with it,
im not sure if my manifold is a 1g or 2g ill have to find out,
any tips on were to find the 4g64 pistons? i know i cant use stock replacment because they are cast.
thanks for the info, and the tip
Don't know how your going to get he ex manifolds to work a 4g64(2.4) from a truck has paired ports and 4g63 has evenly spaced ports
One of the places is thedsmgraveyard.com and another place is maperformance.com. Maperformance does price matching if you perfer them. There are others out there but these two are more reputable. Both also build engines. The 2g exhaust manifold is actually a cheap upgrade to the 1g manifold. As well as the 1g manifold and throttle body on the 2g.
Def. gonna have to make a custom manifold for the 4g64 as thje 4g63 will in no way shape or form bolt up. I am also in the process of figuring out a 8V turbo option for the mighty max. I am looking at making some kind of adapter for the manifold or making a custom tubular setup.
i dont know how but the ex ports and manifold flange line up perfectly on my spare truck motor, its a 92 2.4 six bolt crank, i got to looking around and calling friends and lucked up on a already ported 2g manifold yay! lol (free again)
freakin awesome links 4door,
these the right ones? .20 over so that i can be sure that the cylnder is good
This is starting to sound like its gonna be a nice build ......keep us up to date...
That's a nice set. It is of course for the 16 valve head. I've delt with Nate from there. I heard some builds from the graveyard are a little iffy so I didn't buy from them. They have wiesco also availible but in 0.020 over. With using the sohc head and turbo, you'll have to get most of your info from lsr mike. The 4g63 dohc head should be fairly cheap used. I priced out a dsm 1st gen harness from the dealership to around 400, give or take. And a non EPROM ecu used can go for less then 100. Always more options out there. Keep us informed.
Pics or it didn't happen. The SOHC 16 valve motor found in some FWD mitsu's does indeed share the same exhaust manifold bolt pattern as the DOHC. This may be what you have. It is also a narrow block and will not fit the 2.4 truck transmission. Measure the lower bellhousing bolts (center to center) on the the back of your spare engine. A little over 13" is what you are looking for, hair over 12" and you've got a fwd motor.
Originally Posted by dray
use this on the paired port head:
that is the manifold that i have, so its not off a eclipse, that explains it thanks mainstream,( idont know much about dsm or parts ive always been a domestic fan) sorry about the mix up, thats why im asking the questions
since the pistons are for a 16 valve head, will they not work with my 8v head? would i need to have them machined to fit the head, or is there another set of forged pistons to fit the 8v head,
yes i know the dohc swap would be easy but everyone has done it, i like to do things different,
Well shit, where can I get one of those manifolds!?
I believe they are from an Australian car called a Magna? So you have to get one from over there unless you can find someone sellin one.
That manifold came off of a starion with the sohc 4g63
I have the small 16 on the truck and spooled nicely. I loved that thing. When my clutch took a dump on the talon I pulled the turbo off it since the small 16g was toast. The replacement was a evo3 16g and has a much better flow rate.
With the 1g head, the ports are bigger, the 2g head is smaller but has lots of room for porting. The evo8 intake manifold may look better and seem like a better manifold but the eclipse head has injector ports, and so does the evo 8 manifold. The evo manifold will need to be cut and filled where the injector holes are. IMO, go with the cheaper route determined by your machinist. Evo would be a better manifold though. There is nothing wrong with using the eclipse ecu. There is ecmlink or dsmlink v3, which an run the exact same amount of tuning as the apexi stand alone. Including speed density.
Cas, the 1g cas is located behind the intake cam gear and the motor would either need to be moved forward to ear the cas, or massage the firewall so the cas fits with the oem engine location. The 2ga cas is located on the intake cam sear itself and acrank sensor located on the crank. If using link for tuning I would rather to with the 2ga cas setup and the jay racing front exit thermostat housing to keep the rear of the head clean. You can alway advance and retard the timing with link. The 2g sensors that need to be connected to not throw a code is the boost solenoid (oem electronic boost controller), fuel pressure regulator solenoid (solenoid has to be hooked up but not the vac lines), and the purge solenoid (pretty sure that's what it is). That's with the oem ecu and engine harness. That ofcourse can be deloomed and relocated out of site under the dash to make a cleaner look.
A lot to take in I know. Also the headbolt holes may need to be machined to fit your headbolt. There is a difference in 6 bolt and 7 bolt headbolts and headstuds on the dsms but I don't know if that carries into the mightymax motors. Keep us posted on your decisions. If I did have to do my swap over again, I would have used the 2g sensors and ecu and the jay racing thermostat housing relocation kit. I pounded my firewall with my ballpeen hammer. I took some aggression out on it. Cut my finger on flywheel removal that's why. Lol.
intercooler mock up working on getting all the parts to start putting the motor together, block is at the machine shop waiting for the go ahead, i cant wait, once i pull the current motor gonna clan and paint the engine bay,
anyone got pics of a wire tuck?
more pics and updates to come
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