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Thread: Carb popping and little rough Idling

  1. #1



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    Carb popping and little rough Idling

    Instead of writing out an entire story and trying to describe what is happening, I posted a video of the problem and hope can fix the issue I am having.




    The truck started acting up so I pulled it in to garage to do some long time needed maintenance. Just before, the truck began to sputter and pop out the carb and had some hard starting for a long time. The truck is babied more then the typical truck and I owned it since '87. I did a bunch of work with new Carter fuel pump, new holley fuel regulator, exhaust manifold, another distributor, new 100 amp alternator, new timing and balance shaft belts, rockers adjusted, another starter, added relays while also removing old wiring of installed accessories, driving lights, amp, put in a fuse terminal in engine bay. So, everything works fine and my minor electrical problems are cured. But, the engine sputter and carb popping is still going.
    I did a compression test and readings are...#1=155, #2=145, #3=145, #4=155. Rocker adjustment seemed like normal with a few tight ones, but nothing out of ordinary.
    Anyway, check the video if you like and if you notice something I haven't, chime in and we'll check it to be sure. I do need to recheck the timing belt replacement, though I have replaced them 3 times in the past, this last time the belts must of jumped prior to replacing and were out of their alignments. I realigned the sprockets before installing belts, but you never know when your tired and thought you did it all correct.

    Thx
    USE THIS LINK IF ABOVE DOESN"t WORK
    http://youtu.be/bgC24-f2E2w
    Video starts dark because timing light adjustment, the lights come on hang tight
    Last edited by camoit; 05-28-2013 at 07:49 PM.

  2. #2


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    Popping through the carb like that with out any flame sounds like a valve is opening on an exhaust stroke. This might sound stupid but try and switch the wires on the dis to be on the opposite side you "MIGHT" have the cam out 180 degrees (I have done this and the car still runs) the other thing to look at is the pump shot you might be getting a little extra fuel and it's being spit out on decel.

  3. #3



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    did you change the timing belt? If so it's advanced by a tooth. To make it run good you need to put in a hole bunch of advance don't you. If it has a chain then you might need to re-tension it through the window in the front.

    PS: to add in a youtube video just click the one next to the picture inserter thingy.
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  4. #4



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    Ya both belts were change and the first time after putting back together, I did have to advance the shit out of it. I redropped distributor to get it back to an adjustment area I could work with. Im going to peal the timing covers off tonight and triple check it. Maybe start it up with covers off until this is fixed

  5. #5



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    I put up a good picture of where the cam must be in the tech section. It's just below the top of the head. On Ikeepitkleen we ran it with out the cover just to make sure.
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  6. #6



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    Saw that and that's where I put it, I thought. I also checked the valve rockers on piston #1 related to the closing off of the cylinder for a compression and fire stroke. It appeared to be correct since both intake and exhaust rockers were at a gapping or loose state, this showed the cylinder was sealed by the cam lobes and at a fire stroke TDC. Distributor was pointed at #1 and crank pulley was TDC according to notch and I placed all the balance shaft, oil pump, timing gears and cam pulley all on their respected marks. One thing I forgot to do is installing belt and bringing the tension around the pulleys so the slack is placed at the tensioner so tensioner can absorb the slack. I may of left a one tooth slack between the cam pulley and crank pulley as I installed the timing belt between those 2 cogged gears. Headed out to garage now, nice place to relax and have some quiet time to work on the truck.

  7. #7



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    All the slack must be on the tensioner side no slack on the side between the crank and counter shaft to cam.
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