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Thread: a/c specs?

  1. #1

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    a/c specs?

    So I finally got my a/c swapped in and I'm curious how much oil will be needed? I drained the compressor best I could and most of the dye was drained at the yard when we pulled the system. There was a large puddle and it drained green/yellow ooze for awhile.

    Book is saying 5.8 oz for everything minus compressor. It doesn't list how much compressor takes.
    It also lists 2.78 lbs of R12 which would be close to 3 lbs of R134 if i'm not mistaken.
    1981 Chevy C10 305 longbed - work truck / daily driver.
    1994 Mighty Max 2.4L - Gone to a good home
    1986 D-50 2.6L - Body donor for project
    1984 D-50 2.3L Turbo Diesel - Project truck

  2. #2



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    I want to say 3 OZ for the compressor. But it depends on the compressor. The amount is compressor type dependent. Tecumseh is different form the York.
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  3. #3

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    I havee no idea which one ive got lol auto store onlu lists one. Mine has a mitsu sticker stamp on it. Didnt see any other markings.
    1981 Chevy C10 305 longbed - work truck / daily driver.
    1994 Mighty Max 2.4L - Gone to a good home
    1986 D-50 2.6L - Body donor for project
    1984 D-50 2.3L Turbo Diesel - Project truck

  4. #4



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    post up a picture of it. I hope it's York. There square. You can get rebuild parts for them.
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  5. #5

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    Ill get pics tomorrow. This one definately isnt square. Its similar to the newer 3 bolt style round compressors just with an oversized v belt pulley
    1981 Chevy C10 305 longbed - work truck / daily driver.
    1994 Mighty Max 2.4L - Gone to a good home
    1986 D-50 2.6L - Body donor for project
    1984 D-50 2.3L Turbo Diesel - Project truck

  6. #6



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    Sounds like an R4. But 3 OZ is a safe bet. The oil will flow all through the system this is why it's so important to get the correct amount.
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  7. #7

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    Yep and i drained everything along with a new dryer. That should be around 5oz as a safe bet since evaporator and condensor cant be completely drained.
    1981 Chevy C10 305 longbed - work truck / daily driver.
    1994 Mighty Max 2.4L - Gone to a good home
    1986 D-50 2.6L - Body donor for project
    1984 D-50 2.3L Turbo Diesel - Project truck

  8. #8



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    doesnt entire system hold 32oz?

    AC Freon = 32 oz.
    86 first gen specs

  9. #9

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    Mine is 2nd gen and it's a r12 pre-93 system so it holds 44 oz + oil
    1981 Chevy C10 305 longbed - work truck / daily driver.
    1994 Mighty Max 2.4L - Gone to a good home
    1986 D-50 2.6L - Body donor for project
    1984 D-50 2.3L Turbo Diesel - Project truck

  10. #10

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    where's pennyman when you need him? He's the king of D50 specs..
    1981 Chevy C10 305 longbed - work truck / daily driver.
    1994 Mighty Max 2.4L - Gone to a good home
    1986 D-50 2.6L - Body donor for project
    1984 D-50 2.3L Turbo Diesel - Project truck

  11. #11



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    3 Lbs of gas and 6 Oz of oil. Rule of thumb on a small automotive system.
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  12. #12

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    I just found alot of retrofit info on shopkey saying 1.44 lbs and 4.5 oz oil on a drained compressor and evacuated system
    1981 Chevy C10 305 longbed - work truck / daily driver.
    1994 Mighty Max 2.4L - Gone to a good home
    1986 D-50 2.6L - Body donor for project
    1984 D-50 2.3L Turbo Diesel - Project truck

  13. #13

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    Got it done. It holds 1.50 lbs and 6oz oil. It is in acceptable limits as far as PSI's and it took 6oz to make the compressor quiet down. 4.5 wasn't enough. Now I've got more issues. The high side slowly shoots to 300psi unless you spray the condensor so I've got an airflow issue. Probably because I don't have the fan shroud. I've gota find one. If that doesn't work I'm going with electric fans. Next step is the most annoying. The a/c comes and goes. There's an electrical issue at the control unit. If I wiggle and squeeze the harness at the controller the compressor will come and go. I'm hoping the unit isn't bad. I'm gona try to find some terminals at work from some old wiring harnesses and re-pin the connector tomorrow. The wires at the connector look like S's and occasionally the relay will get 3v-5v all different voltages at the controller side of the relay.
    1981 Chevy C10 305 longbed - work truck / daily driver.
    1994 Mighty Max 2.4L - Gone to a good home
    1986 D-50 2.6L - Body donor for project
    1984 D-50 2.3L Turbo Diesel - Project truck

  14. #14



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    find a shroud from a Montero. There metal and easer to find.
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  15. #15

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    I'll keep my eye open. Gota fix my electrical problem first. The truck I got my parts from had a metal shroud but I removed it to snag the radiator before going back 2 weeks later to get the a/c and p/s from the same truck and when I went back the shroud was gone. Does that mean the montero radiator will fit? Is it any bigger?
    1981 Chevy C10 305 longbed - work truck / daily driver.
    1994 Mighty Max 2.4L - Gone to a good home
    1986 D-50 2.6L - Body donor for project
    1984 D-50 2.3L Turbo Diesel - Project truck

  16. #16



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    That my friend IDK. But you can measure it.
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  17. #17

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    I messed with my controller today. It's so wierd. If I hold the wires at a 90 degree angle with alot of pressure or I push on the plastic portion of the connector (Not the terminals inside since theyre super tight) then it'll work until I let go. I can twist the harness in a knot and it'll work as long as I hold it. Playing with it 2 of the wires broke. I need a new connector and Mitsu discontinued the $25 harness and sold their remaining ones to MoparVintage who we called today and said they've never had that p/n in stock... So I figured out something very interesting. It uses the same connector as the radio. So I ordered a radio connector kit from ebay today for $5 and I"ll try to fix the harness as far back as possible. If that doesn't work it's either a messed up control unit socket or bad control unit which comes down to needing a $95 control unit.
    1981 Chevy C10 305 longbed - work truck / daily driver.
    1994 Mighty Max 2.4L - Gone to a good home
    1986 D-50 2.6L - Body donor for project
    1984 D-50 2.3L Turbo Diesel - Project truck

  18. #18



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    Yea somthing is loosing a connection. Probably the wire.
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  19. #19



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    I just saw this post on the A/C charge - I couldn't figure out where you got that 3 lb number for the A/C - my Blackwood with the arabian spec A/C only takes 39 oz and its a full size truck with oversized evap and condensor - glad you got the right numbers
    Pennyman1
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  20. #20

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    Right now I'm running 1.5 lbs and I added 6oz oil. Unfortunately all we had at work was PAG. I drained the compressor as thoroughly as possible and sprayed out all the lines along with replacing the dryer. It hasn't been over 80 since I got it working but it blows about 45-50. Pressures are roughly 30/175. At idle it'll run up to about 250-300 til I spray the condensor with water but I don't have the fan shroud so I don't have all the air flow I need. I'm thinking i've got another issue since temps are 45 but i can feel warm a foot from the vents. Fan is blowing but there's not much airflow coming out.

    Edit: I had an issue with my pressure relief valve. I'm trying to find another one but for the time I plugged the hole. I'm running about 1.70 lbs and it blows around 40-45 while moving now.
    Last edited by recian; 05-29-2013 at 03:06 PM.
    1981 Chevy C10 305 longbed - work truck / daily driver.
    1994 Mighty Max 2.4L - Gone to a good home
    1986 D-50 2.6L - Body donor for project
    1984 D-50 2.3L Turbo Diesel - Project truck

  21. #21



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    It should be below 40 if working right, but insufficient airflow across the condensor could be part of the issue. For best performance - change the expansion valve to one for R134a - it is a different size to maximize the heat transfer when the gas is sent through the evap coil. Sounds like you got enough of the old oil out of the system, or you would have had issues by now. Also, are you sure you got all the flaps adjusted right to get the fan to blow across the evap coil? Since its an addon unit, it takes some setup to get the flaps set right, and the gaskets on the doors dry up and fall off. Also check to be sure the heater valve is shutting off the heat to the air handler under the dash.
    Pennyman1
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  22. #22

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    Didnt think there was a heater shutoff. The core comes outside the firewall and meets hoses. Im leaning towards doors. I had cable issues before.
    1981 Chevy C10 305 longbed - work truck / daily driver.
    1994 Mighty Max 2.4L - Gone to a good home
    1986 D-50 2.6L - Body donor for project
    1984 D-50 2.3L Turbo Diesel - Project truck

  23. #23

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    i made some adjustments yesterday. Now the passenger side blows very fast but the driver side not so much. I can close the driver vents and not feel a difference. There'd be almost no air if I closed the passenger vents. Still if I get too far from the vents I get hot. I think it's time to add window tint. My toyota truck would literally blow snow and after driving for awhile I'd have to turn it off because it was too cold. But it had 20% window tint too. Keeping the cabin cold with tint then using recirc should make it blow around 40 or less.
    1981 Chevy C10 305 longbed - work truck / daily driver.
    1994 Mighty Max 2.4L - Gone to a good home
    1986 D-50 2.6L - Body donor for project
    1984 D-50 2.3L Turbo Diesel - Project truck

  24. #24

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    4 seasons troubleshooting site says (for 2nd gen) to use 28 oz 134 Freon so you are about right in range with 24 oz (approx. 1.5 lbs).Hope mine gets back cooling soon!

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