Need more information please. What are the numbers down the side, and in the main block. How do people read this??? Please give us an example. Inquiring minds need to know.... You can always add in a - between the numbers.
Need more information please. What are the numbers down the side, and in the main block. How do people read this??? Please give us an example. Inquiring minds need to know.... You can always add in a - between the numbers.
Last edited by camoit; 12-09-2011 at 06:09 PM.
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sorry about the timing advance table. here it is a little better done. load is down the left side with low load at the top and high load at the bottom. high load is when you put the gas pedal to the floor. low load is when you take your foot off the gas. RPM's are horizontal across the top. load, for me, is represented through a map sensor in kilopaskels. the reason why my RPM's drop off to 10 degrees between 6000 and 6200 is because the soft rev limiter is set at 6200 and it reduces the timing 0 degrees across the board. i think this makes a very nice rev limiter that kills all power at 6000 RPM's. peak power is about 4500 RPM.
L
O
A
D
--------------------------------RPM'S--------------------------------
------1000--1500--2500--3500--4000--4500--5000--5500--6000--6200
10.----13----17----28-----32----37----37-----37----37----37-----10
20.----13----17----28-----32----37----37-----37----37----37-----10
30.----12----17----28-----32----37----37-----37----37----37-----10
40.----13----16----28-----31----36----36-----36----36----36-----10
50.----12----16----27-----31----36----36-----36----36----36-----10
60.----11----16----27-----31----35----35-----35----35----35-----10
70.----11----16----27-----31----35----35-----35----35----35-----10
80.----12----15----26-----32----35----34-----34----34----34-----10
90.----13----15----26-----34----34----34-----34----34----34-----10
100.---14----15----26-----34----34----34-----34----34----34-----10
i got the chance to really test out the engine today. i had to tow my sisters mazda 323 270 miles. it pulled her car really well and didn't lose too much speed going up the hills. i am about as happy as i can be with the rebuild. i hope that this timing advance table helps out someone else.
Last edited by PowerRam348; 12-10-2011 at 02:35 AM.
i had the good fortune this morning of being with a friend of mine while he had a mobile rolling road come to his house to dyno and tune his 1995 camero z28. he took the 350 that was in it and made a 383 stroker out of it. anyway, after my buddy got done having his car tuned by the tech's, i asked willyman (no bullshit, that is what his name tag said on his coveralls) if i could put my truck on the dyno. after paying for an hour of use, willyman told me to give him the keys. this is only the second time i have ever seen a dyno in action... let alone on my own vehicle. one of the tech geeks pulled my truck up on the rolling road and hooked up their computer to the megajolt unit, turned on some fans in front of the radiator, and started the test. i wish i had thought about a camera before leaving the house this morning. it would have been awesome to have gotten some pictures of the testing.
the results are in and i am more than happy with them-
159 hp @ 4900 rpm
188 ft-lbs of torque @ 3700 rpm
this is more than i had hoped for. both horsepower and torque. plus the technicians told me that i could increase my peak timing from 34 degrees to 39 degrees and that a 38 dges weber would also help me out. i think that if i am going to spend the money on a 38 dges weber, i'll go throttle body. anyway, my expectations were exceeded.
Nice, much better then what the stock output is supposed to be, congrats. And yes a modified 2.6 would much rather have the 38 on it then the 32/36.
i remmeber someone on the old site having a set of dual deltoro sidedraft carbs for a 2.6 that would be a sweet set up and sound friggin awesome
when i do upgrade my fuel delivery system, it will be to adapt it to throttle body injection. i have an extra intake manifold so i can have it modified to fit a throttle body. then i will need to upgrade to a megasquirt ecu to control the throttle body and the distributorless ignition. then i need to put an insert in the collector of the header to put an o2 sensor in. i think for now i'll just get bigger jets for the 32/36. i like the idea of side draft carbs though. they would look cool too.
Last edited by PowerRam348; 12-15-2011 at 12:51 AM.
If you want to go to fuel injection you should be able to use a starion 4g54 intake manifold and throttle body and all that on your motor.
i got a tbi manifold you can have, you just need to get the throttle body, pay shipping and its yours.
i would love to start that project but i have got to get building my other dodge for the rubicon
0231.jpg0251.jpg0261.jpg0221.jpg0241.jpg0271.jpg
i haven't decided whether to go 4 link with the rear axle or going independent suspension. i have an extra front independent suspension axle with A-arms. my first thoughts were to use the extra front axle to go independent in the rear. my buddy with the cj8 tells me that 4 link is better. i think independent suspension is better.
to anyone who has been reading this build thread-
what should i do? independent suspension or 4 link. my ultimate goal is to use only d50 4x4 parts. no switching out the rear axle to a wide wagoneer axle or things like that. but i figured that i could use a front axle from a d50 and that wouldn't be going outside to the box. i will modify the frame and A-arms but i want it to be as much d50 as possible. this has been an idea in my head since i was in high school when i bought the truck. and i have kicked around the idea of using another front axle to go independent for a while as well. let me know what you guys think.
The front axle from the truck is a 7.5 inch and is too light to use in stock config. A front axle out of a second gen monty is an 8" that can be made lsd with a center section from a starquest, and will handle the power. You would also need to have new shafts made to center the diff, as the front has unequel length shafts. After all that work, you still won't get the articulation a solid axle with a 4 link will give you. If it was better, peope like extreme off road and monster trucks would use it more. Although Hummer H1 alphas have a pretty compelling case for 4 wheel independant suspension...
Pennyman1
The best Dodge that Dodge never made
Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980
4 wheel independent is usually on off road racing cars trucks, and hummers, not ruck crawlers.
i'm kinda after the 4 wheel steering aspect as well as independent suspension. is there any way that i can beef up the front axle that i already have or would it be cheaper and easier to use a montero front axle?
i like to think outside the box a lot and build unusual things like this 4-wheeler with 750 kawi 4 cylinder
trapper pictures 041.jpgtrapper pictures 014.jpg
Last edited by PowerRam348; 12-17-2011 at 10:40 AM.
Montero is the way to go, especially if you want 4 wheel steer
Pennyman1
The best Dodge that Dodge never made
Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980
I swear I had read this thread all the way through...but apparently I didn't. You did MUCH more to the short block than I had thought.
Need to look into your distributor-less ignition a bit more....I THINK I could just buy a Digital 6AL-2 and do the same in a single package (for about $40 more), just not sure.
If you get a chance, could you re-hash your body lift? Really want to do a 2" lift on mine, but with no kits I don't wanna F it up.
here is the video of my truck starting
http://youtu.be/_8joeRHz8Ys
very nice job :D
You planning a SAS
what's an SAS?
Straight axle swap
Stand Alone System ? Runs just the engine without a crap load of extra stuff (ie power windows/locks)
Yep, I want a header now...that sounds mean as hell. lol
Yes, you will also hear some call it a Solid Axle Swap as well. so if plan on something like that check this site out. Look at straight axle toyo trucks. I know you said you wanted to go all d50 parts, technically these are new made after market not by toyo so you could run them.Originally Posted by DroppedMitsu
http://www.trail-gear.com/
If you plan on doing leaf over for the rear get this, adds to the flex and lift. Then you could hit the revolver shackles more lift and flex.
http://www.tntcustoms.com/u-bolteliminiators.aspx
See now i also want to know if the ARB RD90 will fit our trucks it is desgined for yota 7.5 IFS front diff.
http://www.rocky-road.com/arb-air-lo...mpressors.html
Last edited by mopar_ja; 02-24-2012 at 04:54 PM.
ARB makes a rear air locker for the montero / truck axle but not for the front - I asked them while I was at the SEMA show
Pennyman1
The best Dodge that Dodge never made
Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980
If I understood it right, you can swap out the rear axle with a Montero axle that already has the air locker AND big disc brakes. Junkyard price ~$250. ARB locker is about $1k as an aftermarket unit...
yes from a 2nd gen montero - I got one from a 95 montero - its a 9" not 8" with 4.63 gears, locker, disc brakes, and I got the suspension arms, panhard rod, the driveshaft stub and all the mounts for 250. Need to find higher gears for it, more like 3.91 or 4.22s so my low profile tires on my 1980 spin at a reasonable rpm at highway speeds. Supposibly, the gears from a ford 9" fit, as the mitsu 9" is a copy, abeit a stronger one
Pennyman1
The best Dodge that Dodge never made
Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980
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