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Thread: been way too long!

  1. #1


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    been way too long!

    Well, it seems I'm green with envy. A co worker/friend just bought himself a new toy
    IMG_0101.jpgIMG_0105.jpg
    355 C.I. 400+Hp and it's built right and clean, $5K.

    That being said, it's time to rock again as soon as my upgrades arrive then I'll paint my bed the 97 Chevrolet "cobalt red" to match the cab since I'm taking the bed off again.
    9244.jpeg
    I'm so cramped for room under the box with all my suspension parts only a 1 gallon air tank for now since I am still static up front
    9287_lrg.jpg
    Firestone "continuous duty cycle"
    AIRVALVE-HEATER-2.jpg
    Air engine control valves, fully adjustable speed "drop" or "raise"
    spectre-air-intake-plenum-9824_04-01-12.jpg
    Ultra low Spectre plenum (clearance needed from top of carburetor to hood 1.9") "even at that I'm pushing it with clearance" (I do believe I was starving the engine for air, we'll see)
    These days things are crazy expensive, I don't want crappy products on my truck.

    I've been around here a couple of times lately and I'll be around more if I've got any questions.

  2. #2

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    Hehe, that sun comes out and so does the desire to tinker.

    Was out enjoying that weather today, as well. Won't last though, Rose Festival starting soon! Rain til July, guaranteed.

  3. #3



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    Good to see you still tinkering on the truck rickdees. Post updates when you can

  4. #4


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    Cool

    Acuta73, Spoken like a true Oregonian. I wouldn't bet against you.

    Josh, great to see your still around. You got a BMW now, nice!

    Update, the goodies are arriving. The Plenum is on back order, due date 5/22. The air motors are fabulous (Airbagit) and the gauge and air control is a "nice unit" but wrong.
    Goodies.jpg

  5. #5


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    Should this be in build section?

    paint1.jpg
    I really hate the exhaust pointed down giving me that Yard blower effect on a 15 year old gravel drive way, next complaint the Rumble under the truck and lastly how ugly it looks.

    2chop.jpg
    I've been brain storming trying to get the exhaust out from under the truck. Sounds stupid but I must cross and tie the tail pipe to get out. You see where I need to be and the notch I already cut out for clearance.
    1chop.jpg
    It would be a tad easier if the stinking fuel tank wasn't there, but the brace is my heart burn for now.
    Here's what I've been thinking and I do always over build things.
    Question: Should I add cross bracing?

  6. #6

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    Cut it all off then just dump it under the cab(i know leaf blower effect still)

  7. #7


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    Can you run the pipe under the axle then do an S bend using 2 45 degree elbows to run along the frame beside the gas tank to dump out the back. Fill the bags to their full height and see if there is clearance, then dump the bags and see if they would scrape. I almost ran into the same problem so I put the mufflers under the cab and modified the middle x-member to pass the pipes through.

    X Mem Painted.JPG

  8. #8


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    I read your post a couple days ago. That looks nice and clean, did you have those ceramic coated?
    You made me think about a Y under the cab, then going single out is my best move.
    One of those times of, I couldn’t see the forest because of the trees. The thought of cutting that cross member is gone.

    I’m running small catalytic converters and their under the cab.
    Oregon, these old trucks still have to pass DEQ, so the first time I made a slip on with spring clips a dual to single tail pipe so they wouldn’t have to crawl under the truck and reveal it’s not stock.
    (It’s a closed hood inspection and just needs to blow 86 emissions standards, so I play it safe.)
    Deflated with it on I can lay (my hack job) exhaust pipe.

  9. #9


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    Yep after 20+ hrs laying out the exhaust I had the whole system ceramic coated inside and out except the mufflers. The original system was a duel 2.5" kicked to the passengers side into a duel in/out muffler then dumped under the box in the factory location. OMG was that annoying at 65MPH@ 2100rpm the drone was freaking stupid.I love how many people freak out with the new set up dumping out the lower front 1/4 panel of the box and I don't have to worry about crushing the tips on a speed bump.

    Exhaust Test.jpg

    You'll figure out something just might take some time to lay it out.

  10. #10


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    one baby step is a step

    Amazing how long you lay under a truck just staring and thinking no doubt I am a professional procrastinator.
    The way I figure it is orange county choppers can do it I can too, but you must start somewhere even if you do it wrong the first time, you can do it again.
    So with a zip cut disc on the grinder you start some where even if you screw crap up, I didn't but I’ve be working metal for a long time so this took me a couple hours, even less if I hadn’t loaned my plasma to a friend but now I really need it to notch the cross member. I do have friends with tubing benders but no dies to fit 2 1/4" and using a pipe bender crumples, dings, and flat out squishes exhaust pipe. As you can see

    Exhaust look down Y.jpgExhaust Y side look.jpgZip cut Exhaust.jpg

  11. #11

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    Lookin good man! Keep up the good work!

  12. #12


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    exhaust

    Thanks man, I read up about what you're going to do with your truck and I know what you're going to experience, I'd suggest dry sump like the corvette has. The steering and oil pan was huge problem for me while the Ford and Dodge engines fit with no problem
    (Chevy rear sump, Ford/Dodge front sump). But we all know building a custom is truck, #1. it's your truck. #2. is a learning experience. #3. time consuming.



    This weekend is all about time consuming, About 20 hours later here's where I'm at.
    5 sets of flanges and ended up with 6 pieces of removable exhaust with no use of a saws all.
    I still need hangers but this is ready to weld.
    Attached Images

  13. #13


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    That set up looks like it should work good for you.My original set up was almost the same as that.

  14. #14

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    Quote Originally Posted by Rickdees View Post
    Thanks man, I read up about what you're going to do with your truck and I know what you're going to experience, I'd suggest dry sump like the corvette has. The steering and oil pan was huge problem for me while the Ford and Dodge engines fit with no problem
    (Chevy rear sump, Ford/Dodge front sump). But we all know building a custom is truck, #1. it's your truck. #2. is a learning experience. #3. time consuming.



    This weekend is all about time consuming, About 20 hours later here's where I'm at.
    5 sets of flanges and ended up with 6 pieces of removable exhaust with no use of a saws all.
    I still need hangers but this is ready to weld.
    What did you end up doing to resolve your problem? Im thinking about recessing the engine into the firewall to clear the steering or figure out a dry sump system haha

  15. #15



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    Hay Rick, If for some reason the system puts your attachment into moderation again please send me a PM. IDK why it did that but I'm looking into it.
    Members come and members go, But the board keeps track of them.
    Find me on FaceBook
    clicking HERE.

    Or look on YouTube Click Here.
    http://mobilemillwright.com

  16. #16


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    Sounds so nice!

    Believe me when I say, I tried like hell to stay stock.
    My resolve was I cut the stock IFS off and put a 74 Pinto Ifs under it. I had to make strut pockets that look like crap on the frame but eventually I’ll cut those off when I get upper and lower tubular A arms with air bag shocks.
    Well, that’s my intention anyway. Oh and headers is another nightmare. I included pictures of old resolves.

    A dry oil sump isn’t something you just throw together and their not cheap.
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8YzY8DhlnUw
    I know for a fact the guys who run the Fords and Dodge engines don’t have the issues Chevy’s do during installs of the rear sump, But it’s why we call them custom trucks.

    It doesn't sound like a V8 but, Oh it sounds so quite with no rattles or leaks that I can hear.


    I'm thinking I need to move my battery being it's in the way of the room and cool air I desperately need for the air plenum and I'm still clueless on the placement the air compressor, air valves and tank. After 5 days off on vacation I'm freakin beat, I got to get back to work so I can rest.
    Attached Images

  17. #17


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    updates

    I've been busy, I was trying to put all this where the other muffler was and I got stumped, My kids pointed out that I had so much room back here (another moment of, I couldn't see the forest because of the trees). I also fixed my transmission mount bolt holes that I stripped out, love them Heli coils, they are slick. I found 2 bumps stops off a Honda that I scrapped out and put them over my top links bars to rest on, so now my truck is also part Honda.
    @ 120 psi 6 3/4" lift at the compressor, 100 psi 6 1/4" lift.
    I do have some 1/8" aluminum diamond plate that I'm going to surround the air compressor and fuel pump, for one, to keep the compressor dry and 2 the noise. It's easy to say, just got to do it some how?
    The fuel pump was on inside of the frame where exhaust heat now is.
    Attached Images

  18. #18


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    Vary nice work. I went and got some MSD rubber stand offs and mounted my compressor on them,the compressor it not very loud when running now


  19. #19

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    good to see new pics rick. When are you planning on bagging the front?

  20. #20


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    Thanks brother, I had been thinking about mounting a 1/8"or 1/4" aluminum plate on something similar then the compressor on it. That is exactly what I'm looking for! Again waiting on parts and it makes me wonder how much shipping fees I paid in the last 9 years.

    I'm thinking about another change up front with the radiator, I couldn't tell you how many hours I have in building that contraption. But have you seen where this guy mounted his radiator? In front of the core support
    This is a very nice truck but he needs a limited slip.
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XNfn6K1P1Vw

  21. #21


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    Hey Ethan,
    It’s good to hear from you. Honestly I haven’t drove it that much, but the last time I did I needed 8 sheets of ½“ sub flooring on it, needless to say this post pretty much sums up what happened that day. You go back and do it right.
    I remember you’re the only one that ever said you didn’t like the strut pockets I scabbed on and I didn’t argue with you, they are ugly. But since you live so freakin far away, I can only tell you that it drives and handles nice, none of the ‘Gee’ and ‘Ha’ on our crappy Oregon freeways only using a finger it wants to go straight.
    The airbag shocks I know, the low end are 699.00 and the tubular A arms are still about 400.
    I still have a huge to do list. The only time I think about those strut pocket is when I see them.
    For now, Let’s just say I’ve been thinking about them since you discovered we didn’t like them.
    But they do got to go!
    What's Ethan driving now and what happened to the red Isuzu?

  22. #22

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    yeah those air struts are pretty pricey. I drive a 1990 honda accord now (sort of, the timing belt broke last year and bent all the valves so I'm back in my toyota pup for now). I have a thread in the other automotive section. I had to sell the isuzu unfortunately to make room in the driveway for the honda when it's motor went. But I should be ordering my new engine and trans on monday so I hope to have it on the road again soon.

  23. #23


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    Today's update

    Well I can officially tell you it was NOT the ignition switch that went bad, not three times. As I was searching for the problem I realized that I served myself a nice plate of wire spaghetti, after I pulled the seats and carpet to follow the console and tail lights , fuel sender loom. The STOCK Black wire with yellow stripe comes to a plug and turns 180 degrees and runs right back out the firewall. Nice goose chase Mitsubishi!
    After a all day search, I find the white 3mm alternator wire came off the positive battery terminal, no power to the cab, no power period. But I’m now happy, happy, happy!
    Toggle switch and indicator lights.jpg
    I cut this from the rectangular tubing, I figured the grained looked wood match the dash stainless. This is a 400 finish and much to fine
    Underdash.jpg
    Airbagit tried to bone me, this is their loom they sale with their air valve kit. They suggested to just tape over the cuts. I came unglued on them for even suggesting that on a 9 year old truck build. It’s a junk wire loom and the wires are as big as telephone wire, if not it is! Once I told them to stop blowing smoke up my rear end they said they would replace it. The problem is their loom wire is smaller then the air valve wiring so I’m not using it.
    Attached Images

  24. #24


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    Udates

    Just because it's hot I haven't stopped working on the truck, I have just a few thing more to do like drill and tap the link bars for grease fittings. Everything but one thing is wired and fully functional. I do not need to move the battery as of yet as you can see the plenum is over kill but this is the lowest sitting plenum in the world and it's made freaking China. Yes, it get's my goat, it's exactly America's problem, that and Obama. Oh wait, we're talking trucks not the sad state of our failing nation.
    I've ironed out many things, truly to paint the colbalt red on the box isn't that far away!
    Attached Images

  25. #25



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    Looking good Rick

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