Thank you, I've been reading your thread, your truck "is" what I call a cream puff, sweet! I don't see many around here in Oregon. The last one, it took me years but I finally I followed him home and talked with the guy. Some old man, I mean a guy a little elderly than myself. lol
Probably has more cream then puff though. Do you follow people to their house much? (checking rearview mirror more often) lol
What size is your carb?
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It's the small edelbrock, I think it's a 550 or 600 (The plenum is definitely over kill).
My friend is the original owner and loves his beer, I spent at least 10 hours shampooing the seats and door panels. I guess spilt beer is a preservative, not bad at all for 27 years old. I also removed the mirror from the wood slat I had stuffed where the head liner should be.
love the wink mirror brackets - but I think I would miss the visors. At one time I mounted a wink mirror in Geronimo so that the visors functioned, butI can't remember how I did it.
I hear you on the sun visor, my sons friend does tinting and my visors weren’t foam anymore, just dust.
I’ll throw two hats in the glove box for the both of us and my old Vuarnets in for you.
Again, My son (the same) is getting his other friend to re-upholster my interior, I pay for material, I fix his jeeps 4 wd linkage.
I have a set of Ricaro seats I’m thinking about using they set lower about 2” and the rail are the same length and 2 holes need to be relocated and with the same leg room. Thinking black and red.
Also as you can see I started these this morning, the drivers side is fit in place yet so it’s just sitting there.
I'm Trying to get to the cool air and stay out of the hot, I’ve heard K&N filters don’t take the heat very well.
Just kicking ideas around while waiting for parts.
The mountings that come with the wink mirror in my install allowed the visors to work fine. If not mounted right the mirrors vibrate and can be irritating.Originally Posted by pennyman1
Still tinkering, the other night I watched the battery drain for hours with zero fuses in the panel and the breaker off. I unplugged the small wire on the alternator. At 11 pm 12.85volts, an hour later 12.76v, then at 6am 12.69v,
9am 12.67 and 4:30 pm 12.67. Notice from 9am to 4:30 pm ZERO voltage drop. Good news but, why?
I'm liking it so far, but I'm still tinkering. Always use cardboard to build stuff FIRST if you can, it's easier to tape something you cut off then it is to weld something back together.
My wink never shuttered on the 1/4 x 1-1/2" wood slat slid between the gap where the headliner goes. I injured my neck and shoulder 9 years ago. I like my winky, no blind spots and I don't really want to turn my head.
You have the old yellow plates on that thing??!?! DAMN YOU! Every new plate they come out with is harder to see what it is/uglier... Oregon I think wins the award for the nation's fugliest plates. California and Washington get some kind of award for looking the same.
Really like those air boxes/heat shields you built. Consider wrapping the manifolds/headers? Comes with downsides, but.
As far as the low voltage leak. Try running one of those high-end grounding kits? Have about a dozen grounding straps and instructions. Beyond that, chase wires til you find the one hot connection you didn't insulate well. Happy side is, it will be on the battery circuit not ignition. Is a bit odd it will drain in the cooler time of the day, but not the warm. You expect expansion during the day connecting things that weren't touching, not the opposite.
What it the voltage drop across the top of the battery? Put one probe on a post, the other on the top of the battery. You should have no more then 1 volt. Any more and the battery needs to be cleaned. Have you tried the test with the alternator disconnected? Thats normally the main cause of a leek. One more thing to try is to disconnect the battery completely and re test. It could have a plate shorting out internally.
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I had that problem that Camoit explained. Positive post actually broke loose somehow inside the battery and couldn't figure out why battery kept croaking intermittently until the post started to get a bit of a wiggle. Slightly bulged on sides of battery can show a slow death battery.
Car alarms can do weird stuff if grounding out somewhere too.
I've got a ground on the trans to frame, engine to fire wall, engine to frame and battery to engine. IMO, the header wraps look terrible and rought out the headers is the "but" . I'd like to have them ceramic coated, the whole exhaust but.
My sons reactions when they seen the boxes, one was taking pictures and texting them. Over the years I built two sled boats, one flat bottom and a 3 inch V bottom for fishing spring nook (we killed them back then), but explaining why aluminum. Making something out of nothing but time is good.
Building this truck is mostly scrap, basic shapes and sizes.
I just bought a new 850 cold cranking gell battery 3 weeks ago.
Today, I re routed the msd leads away from any wires, and no it won't start, I tried. I didn't go and pick up the new magnetic pick up. I've been busy doing this.
Boxes are good to go other then paint, everyone says red inside the boxes to match the engine, black on the out.
I knew I had to trim the underside brace of the hood for the plenum for clearance, I put this off for a long time wondering will it go well. I find some love in plumbers putty, as you'll see, it's not just for plumbers. Using it I trimmed the outside of the boxes down to a nice 3/16 gap from touching the hood.
These picture are the gap between the hood and plenum, a 1/4". To make this look like this on average it takes about seven putty jobs and 7 grinds to get Perfect!
I did some more trimming under the hood to get clearance, the plenum is thin material.
As I said I'm using plumber putty to see where to it needs to ground.
Probably are already aware of it, but Clackamas Steel over here sells scrap metal by the pound (ferrous and non-ferrous both). Cheap. Lots of odds and ends of various shapes and sizes.
Interesting use of the putty. Could probably use lamp black or that blue stuff used in gunsmithing I always forget the name of, too.
Oh yeah, Clackamas Steel I am well aware of. They were cheap but not anymore, I bought a couple of pieces of ret. tubing and some small pieces of 1/4'' plate. I about Chit my pants, but what are you going to do? Don't forget about the Steel Yard on Columbia blvd.
When your cutting blind holes your forced to think outside the box. There not bad grinds for being in a blind enclosed area.
I'll tell you why just not yet. I back tracked, double backed and I'm on track, the wiring is good. I was getting a 4 amp draw, how? the battery charger told me the draw/drain. It was time to start disconnecting, I just happen to start @ the 'why?' and it happen to be the alternator.
The underneath the bed is finished for now the bed is back on and I say it runs at about 210 ish degrees in temp, I figure if it can't sit in the garage on a hot freakin day it won't handle a traffic jam in Portland. It was do or die, no blown hoses and no coolant on the floor the next day that I discovered a dead battery.
Diode or something in the alternator, I read about it, and I'm not that repair man.
its the reg in the alternator - exchange it or have it rebuilt. Go to an alternator repair shop, not a parts store - all those are low bidder rebuilds that may take several to get one that lasts.
Yep, it was charging but also draining the battery the back was warm with the key off. I've been reading up, it's the CS130D 105 amp alternator. Cs130d and Cs130 are the problem child of GM.
It's bad news when they offer roadside assistance part of the warranty, This make 2, how many is your several? lol
I'm adding a 8 gauge wire with a fuse from alternator to battery and NOT removing the Heavy white wire on the stock harness. Seams redundant but the stock harness runs in to the cab to fusable links and back out the battery, But alternator "generator" builders highly recommend this for better charging ability.
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You can change pulley's from a serpentine to a v-belt for a upgrade on four bangers such as our trucks including getting all kind of mounting brackets to select from , but use the 144 or alternators that need a 1/0 wire to run them without burning your truck up. You know for those guys with huge stereo amps or the 4x guys using electric winches using this adaptor and One wire off the L to the idoit light, but this has a resistor on it so no light is needed or remove the resistor and use a warning/idiot light (Both are not needed or suggested). In the alternator picture, the heavy red wire from the plug, the sensor wire, some say not to do it this way because it will fool itself (the alternator) in thinking it's working and pat itself on the back while your battery suffers the loss. Place this at furthest drain on the system so reads there, not at the source charging the system.
Hense, keeping the battery fully charged, while fulfilling your amperage pull/drain. Did I make any sense?
ADNewInstall.jpgGM_CS130_PLIS-1.jpgGM4PinPlug.jpg
I ordered two 12" Mishimoto slim puller fans 988cfm,
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Some digital gauges, better anyway.
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I don't know how to post a decent thread to make it look good, but at least I did try.
Last edited by Rickdees; 08-04-2013 at 02:33 PM.
I have that same model GM and just had it rebuilt after 13 years - it was built then with the best partsavailable at the time. Now it has even better parts and should go 15-20 years or more with extreme duty replacement diodes and regulator. GM used way undersized parts that fry from the heat
It seems Christine is road worthy, and yes it took that long to get the bugs out. I installed the digital volt meter before returning the alternator, I like the fact that it blinks when and if the alternator fails or over charges. They are freaking bright and dim when you turn your light's on.
New fan added, it's rather close but close isn't hitting and cools fantastic.
We're going to see how long this last with no foam pads. SpeedwayMotors is now selling double pass radiators for $179, that's twenty dollars more then I paid 5 years ago for a single pass.
Added fan.jpg
THIS DIAGRAM IS WRONG for our trucks using the CS130D alternator
GM_CS130_PLIS-1.jpg
This is also WRONG, this isn't the one they sent me (I have this one) it's a single wire plug using the L, and also ground the alternator to battery.
ADNewInstall.jpg
Now DEQ and licensing or Join a car club and get Oregon "Special" Plates (not a daily driver) and be done with it?
Hm, $120 every two years, provided it doesn't go up! or $20 for ever and then have fun?
Our choices are sometime obvious.
Now that I know AC Iridium sparks plugs don’t run on my MSD 6A and a new blaster coil it was still running rich. So I did more changes like re set my floats and smaller metering jets
Going off the Edelbrock tuning chart for my 1403. (a 500cfm on a Vortec 4.3 V6)
.086” metering jets and .065”x .052” metering rods came in the carburetor.
I’m now running off the chart at #11 .083” jets with the .065”x.052” metering rods
The way I’m checking the richness is putting my hand under the exhaust tail pipe and then smelling my hand. Lol, don’t sniff the tail pipe. it's smells much cleaner but not too lean. (it doesn't gag you)
I’ll wait for dark then I’ll start it up and look at the headers, one glowing hotter than the rest is a lean condition or pre ignition in that cylinder, Am I correct?
A friend gave these wire looms, only their for a v8. The clean look, I like. The holley fuel regulator and gauge was removed, my fuel pump(napa p-4070) has a built in regulator.
Doodle truck.jpgDoodle truck1.jpg
I bought a three gauges from Intellitronix, they made these gauge so simple to install even a dummy could it. To bad I bought three already but count me in, I’m eventually going digital, the cost really isn't that bad
Last edited by Rickdees; 09-07-2013 at 11:04 PM.
500 cfm is too large for a 4.3 - go to Holley's website and run their carb sizing tool - you will be amazed at what it comes up with - more likely a 390 or smaller.
Yeah I knew that when I bought it, The first year thru DEQ shocked me that it breezed thru.
But a 390 cfm can't deliver the air needed to get the best out of a 4.3.
I know I can pass if I retard the timing I see that in my slips they give me.
Guy's are running these 500cfm's on smaller engines like the 259 and 272 V8s with great success, just jetted down.
I've read I could need to go down to a .080 jet. I'm just not there yet but it is running better.
tuningchart.jpg
So my fuel mixture is getting better with wide open throttle response and sideways second gear but with a bog at the opening of the secondary’s letting it shift by itself, but not when I shift it manually.
I’m going off their chart, I’m now running @ #10 on the chart with .083 jets with.067 x.055 metering rods.
On the chart #1 the metering rods are .0.21” x .034” smaller then the jets.
The primary of the metering rods is the second # which is the part of the idle circuit.
In keeping with the base factory fuel mixture settings ( .021 x .034) from what I been reading I now need to move to the vacuum plunger spring that pushes the metering rods to smaller end (.021 secondary).
I ordered a spring kit and another set of jets .080” and metering rods .059”x .046” going down I'm off their chart and there’s only one more down sized set of jets I can go.
I guess I should mention I am using a digital thermometer checking the header temperature at each port for too much heat.
Last edited by Rickdees; 09-22-2013 at 08:11 PM.
I went back to #1 setting on the chart and no doubt this engine likes it. There's no doubt by dropping a catalyst to single exhaust destroyed my DEQ emission test. So,I had a car recently die with 18 months of good tags so I swapped the plates to the truck, legally.
The other night the 4.3 gave me surprise while rounding a slight turn when it hit second gear and dam near swapped ends. That was fun, I had no choice but get to get out of it and will say it tested my watts linkage, hard.
I had no poop stains though it was a surprise and now wish I had power steering.
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