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Thread: Weber Conversion miracle cure!

  1. #26

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    Ok sounds good to me, I'm pretty inexperienced with electrical wiring, so I'm sorry for the rookie questions. Where did you put the fuse? To me it seem like the fuse should be in between the relay and the pump. Is the right?

  2. #27

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    Hey guys I've got the fuel pump all wired up and the weber is installed. I have to say I had to get pretty fancy trying to tighten the bolts that hold the carb to the adapter plate, there is no good way to access them. Also I'm about ready to burn the haynes manual I bought for this truck, totally worthless.

    I have a question about the electric choke. I'm having trouble locating where the power source should be coming from. Is it one of the wires that originally went to the old carb? Anyone know which one?

  3. #28



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    Right off the top of my head, I know on mine there was a plug with about 8 connectors on it that was with the smog stuff. There is a connector in that plug that is used and is the onlyone used on the entire plug after smog is removed. Someone here will have a more specific answer then I gave since I am not at my vehicle right now. I could take a picture and post it if you need it right away. This same connection I think can also be used for signaling the fuel pump as well if I am not mistaken.
    The connector is real close to the battery under the hood.

  4. #29

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    ok, I found the connector you are talking about and there are 4 black wires with white stripes going into the connector, then there is a yellow, a yellow w/blue stripe and a yellow w/red stripe. All the black w/white wires have power when the key is in the IGN position.

  5. #30



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    clip.gif

    the plug clip is that extra area shown on the image i posted

  6. #31

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    Quote Originally Posted by BradMph View Post
    clip.gif

    the plug clip is that extra area shown on the image i posted
    Do you know what color wire the choke wire is plugged into? I have an extra slot where your image is red, but this slot is blank, there is no wire entering this area.

    I guess a better question is, should the electric choke be getting 12v when the key is in the IGN position?

  7. #32




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    the answer is yes - it needs the +12 to heat up the spring to open the choke, and needs to stay there while running to keep the choke from closing.
    Pennyman1
    The best Dodge that Dodge never made
    Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980

  8. #33

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    Thanks, I was able to figure it out. I ran it on Sunday and it sounds and feels great! I'm going to try and tag it this week if I can convince my insurance company to insure it as a classic car.

  9. #34


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    Might want to look at rejetting the carb too if you find it's running a bit rich. Mine was significantly more gassy than with the stock carb. I just changed out the jets myself, and it's easy pie. I'll post more as I have more results but I'm down here in Texas, ran it with the AC and stuff on to put some draw on the system and it held temperature just fine. I sized down the idle jets too as it was mega gassy when idling. Once we get some 95+ degree weather I'll let it idle for a good half hour or so and see how the temp holds up.

    I went from a 140/137 main to 130/125 and 60/50 on the Idle jets to a 50/40. Retuned, idles and sounds great.

  10. #35

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    Quote Originally Posted by greenteagod View Post
    Might want to look at rejetting the carb too if you find it's running a bit rich. Mine was significantly more gassy than with the stock carb. I just changed out the jets myself, and it's easy pie. I'll post more as I have more results but I'm down here in Texas, ran it with the AC and stuff on to put some draw on the system and it held temperature just fine. I sized down the idle jets too as it was mega gassy when idling. Once we get some 95+ degree weather I'll let it idle for a good half hour or so and see how the temp holds up.

    I went from a 140/137 main to 130/125 and 60/50 on the Idle jets to a 50/40. Retuned, idles and sounds great.
    I got my Webber like a month ago and it runs like ass cause of the jetting im am surprised that the jetting needs to be smaller. You get your jets local or order them in off one of the Web sites?

  11. #36


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    I just got mine online. I'm actually looking at going down another size or two, but I need to get a meter on the exhaust to really tube it past this point. I still have a bit of a stumble.

  12. #37

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    Is your stumble right as you push the throttle the slightest bit? Cause mine does the same exact thing and it really annoys me cause when im on a trail or in a parking lot it's fuckin slamming all around if you touch the gas, tired of it. Paid 280 for the damn carb that thing should work perfectly butt no always a flaw in the system.

  13. #38


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    Quote Originally Posted by revvedUpToTheMax View Post
    Is your stumble right as you push the throttle the slightest bit? Cause mine does the same exact thing and it really annoys me cause when im on a trail or in a parking lot it's fuckin slamming all around if you touch the gas, tired of it. Paid 280 for the damn carb that thing should work perfectly butt no always a flaw in the system.
    My stumble is actually once it gets about 1/4 throttle. Yeah I was a bit miffed as well when I got mine and it wasn't bolt on magic, especially when they advertise it as being correctly adjusted out of the box. But yeah I'd get a few jets, play around with em. Fortunately they're super easy to change out so there's no real big issue there.

    One thing people comment on is to make sure you have the right fuel pressure. I ended up converting over to an electric pump, though I can't say I really noticed any particular issue with the mechanical one, though perhaps in the long run it would have caused issues.

    I went to 130/125 on the mains and 50/40 on the idles. I'd say get those, as well as the next size down and the next size up. I think mine could stand to have a little more leaning out. It definitely doesn't smell nearly as gassy as it did before, but I'd like to clean that up a bit more if possible.

  14. #39

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    So in the weber swap u cant use the electric pump already there from factory?

  15. #40


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    It's a mechanical pump from the factory. You can use it, but it puts out about 2-3x the pressure recommended for the weber.

  16. #41

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    Oh cus i thought my 88 2.0 had an electric. Though im new to these things and all ive done a mikuni already on mine which is stilll a pos lol. But i thought i read they were electric and the 2.6 was manual pump.

  17. #42


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    Hmm maybe so. I do have the 2.6 so I know mine was mechanical. I guess it would all depend on what PSI the electric is delivering if you could use it. What that is, I don't know.

  18. #43


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    ok guys, check this out from my weber, http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...r-weber-tuning

  19. #44

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    Quote Originally Posted by mopar_ja View Post
    ok guys, check this out from my weber, http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...r-weber-tuning
    Read the whole thing, what kinda mileage you get with that jetting? I got what came with the Webber so 137 main 140 secondary and what ever for the idle and I get some really horrible mileage. We are talking like 10 if your mating it every once in a while and I consider them jets to be small. I consider wrong I guess hahaha

  20. #45

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    And im 194 ft above sea level here.

  21. #46


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    i'm getting about 18 in town never tested on highway I really don't drive it there.

  22. #47



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    These are universal carbs. They are not mighty max/d50 specific and even if they were, at different sea levels you will need different jetting. There is no way they could ship it to you and have you slap it on and be perfect. That is the hassle with carbs is that they are not self adjusting like an
    EFI system is.

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