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Thread: Weber 32/36

  1. #251

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    Quote Originally Posted by maxdsm View Post
    Noted penny man. I am using the manual fuel pump and a holley FPR. It stays in between 3 and 5. But fluctuate s in between when running. I just don't understand why I have to step on the gas 5-7 times before it will turn over. I took the accelerator apart and the diaphragm is not ripped or torn. And seems to be functioning regularly.?
    Could be the diaphragm is stretched. Also the FPR's can be a bit 'iffy' when it comes to actually doing it's job. I've heard of a few of them having problems with the spring in them (?)

    Quote Originally Posted by risingphx25 View Post
    Well ;made changes to the idle mixture and idle screw and now it diesels. Could it be the carbon build up from before? Out of the box settings did not cause dieseling.
    Try changing it back to the factory setting - setting the timing with the Weber is trial and error. It'll pull more vacuum than the Mikuni and as a consequence will try to over advance timing.
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  2. #252

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    I took it apart and that's exactly what happen to the diaphragm . Thanks geezer. Will be ordering a new one.
    MAXDSM

  3. #253

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    #31. Maybe I shouldn't stomp the crap Out the gas peddle and that might not happen.unless I had it set up for to much fuel and that did it before I made adjustments
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    MAXDSM

  4. #254

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    The mechanical fuel pump + Holley FPR will cause you grief. It's inevitable. Change to an electric pump and it will go a long way to sorting your Weber install out. Been giving this a bit of thought and was wondering if installing a one way check valve in the fuel line post pump would be beneficial? I may need this if I go ahead with my loopy twin fuel tank set up...
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  5. #255




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    I had a facet electric pump that had a built in check valve on the outlet of the pump years ago. The issue is, the check valve requires pressure to open it, so it will drop the pressure slightly, depending on the pressure rating of the check. A 1/2 lb check would be the one to use, if you can find one.
    Pennyman1
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  6. #256

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    Thanks pennyman so...if I put the check valve before the pump, could it cause potential issues with fuel pick up? I want to make the twin tank delivery system as simple as possible - no solenoids, 2 separate pumps with check valves and a joiner to bridge them into a single line for the carb. Yes, there will be a manual control switch to flip between tanks (before anyone asks lol)
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  7. #257




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    has to be after the pump - the pump does not have enough suction to open the check. The external electric pumps are gravity feed.
    Pennyman1
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  8. #258


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    Webern are know for the dieselling. You can buy an idle cut off which will deal with this issue.

  9. #259


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    Webers are known for the dieselling. You can buy an idle cut off which will deal with this issue.

  10. #260

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    Quote Originally Posted by yamahlr View Post
    Webers are known for the dieselling. You can buy an idle cut off which will deal with this issue.
    only for some of the webers they don't make one for mine 32/36 dgev

  11. #261

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    Quote Originally Posted by geezer101 View Post
    Could be the diaphragm is stretched. Also the FPR's can be a bit 'iffy' when it comes to actually doing it's job. I've heard of a few of them having problems with the spring in them (?)



    Try changing it back to the factory setting - setting the timing with the Weber is trial and error. It'll pull more vacuum than the Mikuni and as a consequence will try to over advance timing.
    .

    Picked up a used wideband LC-1 to help tune the Weber . Within the factory settings at idle it's in the high 15's. Stepping up to larger jets.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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  12. #262

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    Quote Originally Posted by risingphx25 View Post
    .

    Picked up a used wideband LC-1 to help tune the Weber . Within the factory settings at idle it's in the high 15's. Stepping up to larger jets.
    I believe this is gonna be my next step.

  13. #263

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    Any suggestions on where to order weber part? I've used allstate a couple time so far. I've seen LCE performance and I think carburetation.com just wondering if there are any more?

  14. #264

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    A list of genuine Weber retailers and suppliers - note the webercarbsdirect in the middle of it as being the crap copy seller to avoid.

    http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...ll=1#post27961
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  15. #265




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    the idle cutoff solenoid is only for the DFAV webers.
    Pennyman1
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  16. #266

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    Quote Originally Posted by pennyman1 View Post
    the idle cutoff solenoid is only for the DFAV webers.
    your 1000% right i found out the hard way

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