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Thread: Weber 32/36

  1. #226

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    I just ordered my k614. There is a factory kick down lever for the auto trans. Think it was $5. The redline guy discounted everything.


    Does anyone know what size the coolant holes on the manifold are? I was going to plug them just want to have everything on hand. I'll post up pics of my fuel pump and stuff.

  2. #227

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    Quote Originally Posted by RiskyNick View Post
    Does anyone know what size the coolant holes on the manifold are?
    You should drain the coolant below the level of the base of the carb mount surface on the intake. The hole are not very big using a rag to keep dirt out while you work around it should do fine. I just opened the petcock on the rad and let it drain into a clean bucket. If you want to see it look at the picture in the link I posted to my thread called "everything off"

  3. #228

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    You don't 'need' to plug the coolant holes up. Well, the coolant barb off the manifold where the heater hooks up to needs to be deleted but you can take the whole thing off and install a straight brass barb on there - makes it neater. However there is a coolant port under the base of the carb that you can seal off just to make sure it doesn't come back to haunt you. Use a metric M6 thread tap into the port and drop a hex key grub screw with some thread sealant in there to block it off. Done deal. Did the same to my intake manifold. It seemed to be one of those things that was either overlooked or no-one had come up with an easy way to fix it.

    On the subject - there is a coolant gallery that passes from the manifold base to the thermostat chamber. If the 4G54's intake is anything like the G63B's as far as coolant flow is concerned, that gallery could be badly restricted from factory. I did something that, as far as I know doesn't get any thought - I ran the biggest drill bit that would fit from the thermostat chamber through that gallery to improve coolant flow (crazy, if not suicidal - I know...) It went from barely being able to poke a HB pencil through it to at least 8mm in diameter. Haven't tested it yet but if it helps coolant pass through the head faster, it was simple to do and worth it.
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  4. #229

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    I' m late to the party but I finally picked up a Weber 32/36. Somewhat installed; I only have one fuel line and no return? Wiring in an electric pump via an add-a-circuit using the horn. Did have a question about setting up the cable.

  5. #230

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    That is correct - no return line. Cap off the existing return line. Don't use the horn as a power supply - splicing into an accessory circuit is dodgy and it will get constant power with the ignition off. Use a relay that takes power from the ignition circuit to trigger it (from the ignition side into the coil) and run power with a fuse straight off the battery through the relay so it is guaranteed a constant 12+v to run the pump. There is a throttle cable bracket that mounts to the rocker cover (most guys refer to it as a 'boomerang' - best way to describe the shape of it)
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  6. #231

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  7. #232

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    Thank you geezer101. Im having difficulty posting pictures but I seem to be missing the "boomerang".I'm trying to locate the pressure line at the rear of the tank where I can splice in the fuel pump as well.

  8. #233

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    In image #2 there's a fuel filter (the white plastic cannister) which is connected to the main fuel line. Install the electric fuel pump in that location with the fuel filter between the tank and the pump. If you want to post pictures directly, click on 'Go Advanced' at the bottom of the posting box, scroll down to 'Manage Attachments'. From here you can start up an album by either downloading from your PC or from a URL. Insert image from the album into your post and you're good to go
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  9. #234

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    Oh wow I feel like a dufus for missing that. I ran to an issue with Carbole pump, the outlet came apart, i want to say its not supposed to be like that.
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  10. #235

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    Might be able to reinstall the O ring and tap it back in with a hammer. They're only press fit (as you can see) so it should be o.k. but visually check it for any signs of leaks.
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  11. #236

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    I was able to push it back without much force. Even though its relatively low pressure I'm wary of it coming apart with vibrations. Ive read some have used the AC DELCO EP42S, not sure if its a viable alternative. Plus its all metal and not much more .

  12. #237

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    Ended Installing the Weber and the electric fuel pump. Runs so so, seems to be running rich per the spark plugs. How can I lean it out?Click image for larger version. 

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  13. #238

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    It might be jetted for the 2.6. Another member was having a similar issue with their 2.0 so I managed to find a guide for rejetting the 32/36 -

    http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...ll=1#post44898
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  14. #239

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    Quote Originally Posted by geezer101 View Post
    It might be jetted for the 2.6. Another member was having a similar issue with their 2.0 so I managed to find a guide for rejetting the 32/36 -

    http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...ll=1#post44898
    Awesome much appreciated! Bear in mind I have made no adjustments to anything yet, plopped on and started the truck. Starting to feel a bit overwhelmed.So I should open up the carb and check the main and idle jets? I assume they will have numbers to be identified. From what i've read timing should be adjusted as well?

  15. #240

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    Yes on both counts. The Weber will generate more vacuum than the Mikuni and has a tendency to be heavy on ignition advance. Dialling it in is trial and error and will also depend on fuel (it was recommended from factory the G63B should run on 97+)
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  16. #241

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    Quote Originally Posted by geezer101 View Post
    Yes on both counts. The Weber will generate more vacuum than the Mikuni and has a tendency to be heavy on ignition advance. Dialling it in is trial and error and will also depend on fuel (it was recommended from factory the G63B should run on 97+)
    Opened it up today
    60 primary idle
    50 sec idle
    140/140 prim/sec fuel
    170/160 prim/sec air correctors
    Emulsion tubes F50
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  17. #242

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    So going by the recommended jetting table you need to swap the primary main for a 1.35 and the secondary main for a 1.30. Both the idle jets need to be 0.50 and the air correctors are primary 1.75 and secondary 1.45. Dropping the sizes on the mains should get it running leaner. Weird the primary air corrector is smaller than recommended but the secondary is HUGE in comparison (wonder what they were jetting it to run?)
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  18. #243

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    Quote Originally Posted by geezer101 View Post
    So going by the recommended jetting table you need to swap the primary main for a 1.35 and the secondary main for a 1.30. Both the idle jets need to be 0.50 and the air correctors are primary 1.75 and secondary 1.45. Dropping the sizes on the mains should get it running leaner. Weird the primary air corrector is smaller than recommended but the secondary is HUGE in comparison (wonder what they were jetting it to run?)
    Not sure actually, no wonder its puffing black smoke. I called Pierce Manifolds and they mentioned they worked for either 2.0/2.6's. I found this site for picking up the jets https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...p?Product=1583

  19. #244

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    (it was recommended from factory the G63B should run on 97+) ??? Ive been running 87. Although I've only ran 2 or 3 tanks since my rebuild . Should I switch to 97?? I'm also wondering if the holley FPR I have on there causes a lack of fuel to accelerator pump because I have to pump the gas like 5 or 6 times before it wants to turn over. Also lmk if the different size jets make a difference? Seeing mine is a 2.0
    MAXDSM

  20. #245

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    Quote Originally Posted by maxdsm View Post
    (it was recommended from factory the G63B should run on 97+) ??? Ive been running 87. Although I've only ran 2 or 3 tanks since my rebuild . Should I switch to 97?? I'm also wondering if the holley FPR I have on there causes a lack of fuel to accelerator pump because I have to pump the gas like 5 or 6 times before it wants to turn over. Also lmk if the different size jets make a difference? Seeing mine is a 2.0
    Yes, jetting the Weber down for the G63B is important. It'll be drowning in fuel and more than likely make it that much harder to start. What fuel pump are you using? If you use a high volume, low pressure pump you shouldn't need a FPR on it.
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  21. #246




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    Geezer is talking RON octane numbers - US octane is different - RON 97 is roughly 89 octane US.
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  22. #247

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    I really need to open mine back up and get all the sizes wrote down for mine. I'm not sure what mine was even jetted for the po didn't say where he even got it from.

  23. #248

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    So far it has improved, it doesn't smoke like a coal train anymore. Need to pickup a timing light to dial it in. How far advanced/ retard should I go?

  24. #249

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    Noted penny man. I am using the manual fuel pump and a holley FPR. It stays in between 3 and 5. But fluctuate s in between when running. I just don't understand why I have to step on the gas 5-7 times before it will turn over. I took the accelerator apart and the diaphragm is not ripped or torn. And seems to be functioning regularly.?
    MAXDSM

  25. #250

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    Well ;made changes to the idle mixture and idle screw and now it diesels. Could it be the carbon build up from before? Out of the box settings did not cause dieseling.

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