Page 12 of 13 FirstFirst ... 210111213 LastLast
Results 276 to 300 of 301

Thread: Weber 32/36

  1. #276

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    07-23-2018
    Posts
    395
    Location

    Seattle, WA
    Vehicle

    1988 Dodge Power Ram 50
    Engine

    G54B
    Quote Originally Posted by pacheco2189 View Post
    So I tried the starter fluid and the timing. Still the same. I was doing some other testing and noticed the spark seems weak. Could that be a problem and if so, what could cause it? Also, I know the vacuum system is obsolete but from looking at wiring diagrams the gray control box on the drivers side has like 2 ignition wires that hook into it. Do I need to have that hooked up?
    Weak spark could be due to poor ground or harness connections. Check the battery-to-frame-to-block and the head-to-firewall cables for continuity and clean their contact surfaces. Then check that the coil, resistor block and distributor wiring connections are clean and secure. The coil or ignition igniter in the distributor could be failing, but if it ran fine before the Weber install, I doubt these are causing the starting problem.
    I‘m not sure about the ignition wires to the gray device box. My schematic shows only one, a black and white wire from the resistor block to a choke relay in the box. Like the vacuum lines with the Weber, the harness connections to the box no longer have a purpose. I don’t think it needs to be connected.

    What is the power source for the Weber’s choke? Maybe it’s competing with and killing power to the starting ignition? Look at this thread which describes a loss of spark after a Weber install: http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...spark-to-plugs . See if yours starts after disconnecting the choke wire like rranger found. If it starts, find another power source for the choke. It needs to be energized only when the key is in the "On" position.
    Last edited by FMS88; 01-03-2019 at 10:35 AM.

  2. #277

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    12-05-2015
    Posts
    7
    Location

    Tacoma, WA
    Vehicle

    1987 Dodge Ram 50
    Engine

    G54B
    Still nothing, all grounds are good, all connections are clean and secure. My weber choke is connected to a wire that use to plug into the old carb. I attached pictures of the wiring. I hooked everything back up the same exact way it came of but something seems off.

    wire1.jpgwire2.jpgwire3.jpg

  3. #278

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    07-23-2018
    Posts
    395
    Location

    Seattle, WA
    Vehicle

    1988 Dodge Power Ram 50
    Engine

    G54B
    Hmmm. I'm running out of possibilities. Nothing in the pictures looked wrong. Just to be clear, when you tested for spark, was it at the plugs?

  4. #279

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    11-23-2013
    Posts
    426
    Location

    pa
    Vehicle

    1988 Mitsubishi Mighty Max
    Engine

    G63B
    Put a accel or msd aftermarket coil pack on it . My g63b did the same with weak spark after I rebuilt it . Starts up everytime now .

  5. #280

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    11-24-2019
    Posts
    14
    Location

    Murrieta, CA
    Vehicle

    1989 Mitsubishi Mighty Max
    Engine

    G63B
    Hey guys,

    So i decided to tackle the weber project yesterday. I got the genuine weber 32/36 DGEV installed and the truck is starting and running fine. I have the idle and mixture screws tuned according the installation instructions. Fast idle screw is set to 2,000 RPM, idle speed screw is 1 1/2 turns in, and mixture screw is 1 1/2 turns out. The installation of the carb was straight forward, but there are a few things that I'm unsure about though so maybe someone here can shed some light for me. Mostly what to do with all my old vacuum lines. I have 1989 G63B manual with A/C.

    1. I'd like to keep the vacuum lines in the engine bay for the emissions look, does anything need to be capped off not and just tucked away?
    2. #8 in the installation instructions say to "Disconnect the evaporative emissions lines from the carb and air filter at the charcoal canister". does this mean to completely remove or cap off the lines coming off the charcoal canister labeled "to carb" and "to A?C"?
    3. #9 in the instructions says "disconnect EGR valve and thermal switch next to it, they will disconnected and not be used". I disconnected the large vacuum line on the bottom oft he EGR as well as the small line going into the top, but which switch needs to be unplugged? There are three all in the same area just to the left of the EGR going into the thermostat housing.
    4. #11 in the instructions says "Remove the two exhaust tubes from the exhaust manifold and use 1 1/4 plugs supplied to plug the holes". There was only one hole tp be plugged coming out of the manifold. It was the one that had the large metal pipe coming out of it going to the air control valve. I did remove the metal tube coming off the manifold and the entire secondary air valve assembly and used the supplied plug to the the hole in the manifold.
    5. #12 in the instructions says "plug all open vacuum lines and thermal switch fittings on the intake manifold. make ABSOLUTELY SURE there are no connections to the EGR, the only vacuum used if the the power brakes". I'm unsure of exactly what I need to plug off here. Both lines going to the EGR have been disconnected and the factory vacuum line going from the brake booster to the intake manifold was untouched and still in place.
    6. How does my electric choke connection look? Acceptable? it is a keyed power source, but just want to make sure with you guys its OK and if there isnt a better place to hook it up.
    7. The vacuum line going from the carb to the distributor. There are 2 vacuum lines on my distributor: one coming off the side and one coming out of the bottom, which is the correct one to use and does the other need to be plugged or left open?
    8. Fuel return line. Right now I have the return line coming off the fuel pump connected via a wire barb to the line going back to the tank. Is this correct?
    *I have a Carbole electric fuel pump P/N 42S that I plan on installing in the next few days that will eliminate the stock mechanical pump. Once i install this electric fuel pump what will I do with the return line?
    9. The trhottle return spring. is there a right and wrong way to install this is or is it just a make it work as best as possible kind of thing?

    Thank you for any and all input!
    Attached Images

  6. #281



    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    03-16-2011
    Posts
    3,803
    Location

    Sacramento, CA
    Vehicle

    1979 Dodge D-50
    Engine

    Chevy V6
    So far everything looks fine.
    Members come and members go, But the board keeps track of them.
    Find me on FaceBook
    clicking HERE.

    Or look on YouTube Click Here.
    http://mobilemillwright.com

  7. #282



    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    03-06-2018
    Posts
    478
    Location

    Tucson, AZ USA
    Vehicle

    1987 Dodge Ram 50
    Engine

    G54B
    If you've got a box on the driver's side inner fender with a bunch of vac lines running to it, that's a control box for the stock Mikuni carb, so you may as well pull that along with all vac lines connected to it, which will simplify things enormously.

    That should leave a "tree" of open vac hose barbs screwed into the manifold, so you just need to cap those off, or IMO better yet run a short length of vac hose between pairs of those barbs and then just cap any odd man out (as caps tend to deteriorate more readily than hose does). Some ppl even unscrew that tree and plug the hole, but it's a weird 1/8"-28 BSPT thread (not the US-typical NPT) that you'd prolly need to special-order a plug for off eBay.

    You don't have to cap any barbs attached to sensors/senders, as those aren't open to manifold vacuum.
    1987 Dodge Ram 50 4G54 RWD longbed ("Elmo")
    1979 Lancia Beta Zagato spider ("Lola")
    1982 Lancia Beta Zagato spider ("Luigi")

  8. #283

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    06-15-2014
    Posts
    6,059
    Location

    Adelaide, South Australia
    Vehicle

    1985 Mitsubishi L200
    Engine

    G63B
    Jeez, the vac lines give me anxiety just looking at them. The concept of diagnosing a vac leak though... definitely remove the feedback system for the Mikuni carb unless to need to BS your way through emissions inspections.
    support the forum that supports you - join and donate to MightyRam50.Net today! donations unlock the edit function

  9. #284



    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    03-06-2018
    Posts
    478
    Location

    Tucson, AZ USA
    Vehicle

    1987 Dodge Ram 50
    Engine

    G54B
    Quote Originally Posted by bigwavedave View Post
    9. The trhottle return spring. is there a right and wrong way to install this is or is it just a make it work as best as possible kind of thing?
    Here's how I did mine:

    IMG_20200709_190524.jpg
    1987 Dodge Ram 50 4G54 RWD longbed ("Elmo")
    1979 Lancia Beta Zagato spider ("Lola")
    1982 Lancia Beta Zagato spider ("Luigi")

  10. #285

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    06-15-2014
    Posts
    6,059
    Location

    Adelaide, South Australia
    Vehicle

    1985 Mitsubishi L200
    Engine

    G63B
    ^looks like a perfect set up
    support the forum that supports you - join and donate to MightyRam50.Net today! donations unlock the edit function

  11. #286

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    06-15-2014
    Posts
    6,059
    Location

    Adelaide, South Australia
    Vehicle

    1985 Mitsubishi L200
    Engine

    G63B
    I thought I'd put up a link to a YT video of a guy doing the 32/36 swap on his 2.6. The only errors he has made is not installing an electric HVLP fuel pump and instead using a fuel pressure regulator on the factory fuel pump and simply repurposing the fuel cut power from the original carb to run the electric choke which would've saved time and effort -

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3JH8...2%80%99sGarage

    *the important info is on blocking the coolant port
    support the forum that supports you - join and donate to MightyRam50.Net today! donations unlock the edit function

  12. #287

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    10-13-2020
    Posts
    22
    Location

    Laurel, MT
    Vehicle

    1988 Dodge Power Ram 50
    Engine

    G54B
    Quote Originally Posted by geezer101 View Post
    I thought I'd put up a link to a YT video of a guy doing the 32/36 swap on his 2.6. The only errors he has made is not installing an electric HVLP fuel pump and instead using a fuel pressure regulator on the factory fuel pump and simply repurposing the fuel cut power from the original carb to run the electric choke which would've saved time and effort -

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3JH8...2%80%99sGarage

    *the important info is on blocking the coolant port
    Why cant you use the original fuel pump with a regulator?

  13. #288



    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    03-16-2011
    Posts
    3,803
    Location

    Sacramento, CA
    Vehicle

    1979 Dodge D-50
    Engine

    Chevy V6
    Quote Originally Posted by 88dodge View Post
    Why cant you use the original fuel pump with a regulator?
    it’s because 90% of the regulators on the market will slowly increase pressure above the 2 psi limit. And most of the people that say it is fine have never put a gauge on the carb side and run with it. If they did they would quickly see that the only way to actually limit the pressure is to use a regulator with a return line to the tank.
    Members come and members go, But the board keeps track of them.
    Find me on FaceBook
    clicking HERE.

    Or look on YouTube Click Here.
    http://mobilemillwright.com

  14. #289

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    10-13-2020
    Posts
    22
    Location

    Laurel, MT
    Vehicle

    1988 Dodge Power Ram 50
    Engine

    G54B
    Quote Originally Posted by camoit View Post
    it’s because 90% of the regulators on the market will slowly increase pressure above the 2 psi limit. And most of the people that say it is fine have never put a gauge on the carb side and run with it. If they did they would quickly see that the only way to actually limit the pressure is to use a regulator with a return line to the tank.
    so the fuel pump you would run is 2psi, so would this pump be ideal?

    https://www.holley.com/products/fuel...s/parts/12-426

  15. #290

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    06-15-2014
    Posts
    6,059
    Location

    Adelaide, South Australia
    Vehicle

    1985 Mitsubishi L200
    Engine

    G63B
    It will need a higher flow rate than that to supply a Weber. 3.5 psi is closer to the ideal fuel pressure as well. The Mr Gasket 42S pump meets these requirements but it's kinda pricey - the Carbole 42S pump is identical excluding the stickers on the pump body and is literally half the price. Some people recommend the Carter P4070 but my experience was less than favourable (really noisy, expensive and the pump failed causing metal chaff to be coughed up into the fuel line)
    support the forum that supports you - join and donate to MightyRam50.Net today! donations unlock the edit function

  16. #291



    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    03-06-2018
    Posts
    478
    Location

    Tucson, AZ USA
    Vehicle

    1987 Dodge Ram 50
    Engine

    G54B
    I like the Carter P90091 myself -- smaller, quieter, and a simpler gerotor design completely different from the rotary-vane P4070 and generally a bit cheaper, too. Native pressure is exactly right for a Weber with smooth flow (unlike the pulsing delivery of most cheap solenoid-driven piston-action pumps), never had one fail in the 15+ years I've been using them [knock wood].
    1987 Dodge Ram 50 4G54 RWD longbed ("Elmo")
    1979 Lancia Beta Zagato spider ("Lola")
    1982 Lancia Beta Zagato spider ("Luigi")

  17. #292

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    06-15-2014
    Posts
    6,059
    Location

    Adelaide, South Australia
    Vehicle

    1985 Mitsubishi L200
    Engine

    G63B
    There you go 88dodge - you have options

    *thanks SubG. And it looks like most vendors supply a metal fuel filter as part of the packages starting @ $70ish USD
    support the forum that supports you - join and donate to MightyRam50.Net today! donations unlock the edit function

  18. #293



    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    03-06-2018
    Posts
    478
    Location

    Tucson, AZ USA
    Vehicle

    1987 Dodge Ram 50
    Engine

    G54B
    Quote Originally Posted by geezer101 View Post
    And it looks like most vendors supply a metal fuel filter as part of the packages starting @ $70ish USD
    Yes, as standard eqpt. Carter includes a pre-filter attached by semi-permanent crimp-on hose clamps, so I suspect it's only there to protect the pump from coarse chunks and likely just has a fine stainless-mesh screen inside, so I'd still add a post-pump filter with conventional cellulose media, prolly underhood near the carb where it's more accessible. I'm seeing the P90091 available from Amazon at $46.60 USD shipped.
    1987 Dodge Ram 50 4G54 RWD longbed ("Elmo")
    1979 Lancia Beta Zagato spider ("Lola")
    1982 Lancia Beta Zagato spider ("Luigi")

  19. #294

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    10-13-2020
    Posts
    22
    Location

    Laurel, MT
    Vehicle

    1988 Dodge Power Ram 50
    Engine

    G54B
    Quote Originally Posted by SubGothius View Post
    Yes, as standard eqpt. Carter includes a pre-filter attached by semi-permanent crimp-on hose clamps, so I suspect it's only there to protect the pump from coarse chunks and likely just has a fine stainless-mesh screen inside, so I'd still add a post-pump filter with conventional cellulose media, prolly underhood near the carb where it's more accessible. I'm seeing the P90091 available from Amazon at $46.60 USD shipped.
    Thanks guys, I do appreciate all the help you guys give me

  20. #295



    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    03-16-2011
    Posts
    3,803
    Location

    Sacramento, CA
    Vehicle

    1979 Dodge D-50
    Engine

    Chevy V6
    A stock pump puts out 7 to 10 psi depending on how old the springs are. The flow is fine from them. They just cause the carb to over fill all the time and it will run rich
    Members come and members go, But the board keeps track of them.
    Find me on FaceBook
    clicking HERE.

    Or look on YouTube Click Here.
    http://mobilemillwright.com

  21. #296



    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    03-06-2018
    Posts
    478
    Location

    Tucson, AZ USA
    Vehicle

    1987 Dodge Ram 50
    Engine

    G54B
    Quote Originally Posted by camoit View Post
    A stock pump puts out 7 to 10 psi depending on how old the springs are. The flow is fine from them. They just cause the carb to over fill all the time and it will run rich
    Flow is fine, but pressure is excessive for a Weber, forcing the needle valve off its seat when the float should be holding it closed, and putting a regulator on it to reduce the pressure stresses the pump mechanism/membrane, eventually killing the pump. Electric is just the better, simpler, more reliable way to go.
    1987 Dodge Ram 50 4G54 RWD longbed ("Elmo")
    1979 Lancia Beta Zagato spider ("Lola")
    1982 Lancia Beta Zagato spider ("Luigi")

  22. #297

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    08-24-2014
    Posts
    14
    Location

    Irving, TX
    Vehicle

    1987 Dodge Ram 50
    Engine

    I.D.K.?
    Hey everyone,

    I'm trying to find posts/threads that show how to do the electrical for wiring up an electric fuel pump for a weber carb. I've tried looking in this thread, but I didn't find much. Is there a good reference for how to do that?

  23. #298

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    10-29-2014
    Posts
    1,220
    Location

    Earth, the Solar System
    Vehicle

    1985 Dodge Ram 50
    Engine

    G63B
    RamRock
    Look in the wiki. I tried to find my own posts and pics of what I did, but they seem to be gone. I barely remember what it looks like.

  24. #299



    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    03-06-2018
    Posts
    478
    Location

    Tucson, AZ USA
    Vehicle

    1987 Dodge Ram 50
    Engine

    G54B
    Check my posts in this thread for relay wiring, where/how to mount the pump, etc:

    http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...r-carb-install
    1987 Dodge Ram 50 4G54 RWD longbed ("Elmo")
    1979 Lancia Beta Zagato spider ("Lola")
    1982 Lancia Beta Zagato spider ("Luigi")

  25. #300

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    10-13-2020
    Posts
    22
    Location

    Laurel, MT
    Vehicle

    1988 Dodge Power Ram 50
    Engine

    G54B
    Quote Originally Posted by RamRock50 View Post
    Hey everyone,

    I'm trying to find posts/threads that show how to do the electrical for wiring up an electric fuel pump for a weber carb. I've tried looking in this thread, but I didn't find much. Is there a good reference for how to do that?
    My father and I wired it up to the wires for the emission box that we took out, it works great, we also used another wire that went to the emission
    box for the electric choke as well

Page 12 of 13 FirstFirst ... 210111213 LastLast

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •