Weber 32/36

[treycw]

I have an 85 power ram with the 2.6, i went ahead and got a 32/36 weber with the electric choke. installed it all last night and purrs like a kitten but as soon as i put it in gear and go to move it wants to stall and not move at all. If anyone has any idea what the problem is your help will be greatly appreciated. I better mention I installed an electric fuel pump also. Airtex e8004. I'm not using a regulator because the pump itself is only rated for 6 psi max pressure and I've heard the webers only need 3.5 to 4psi to operate properly.

[Kerrigan]

I read 3psi max or they flood out .. like that. Using a 3 psi electric pump on my install back by the pump.

[Andy 2]

If your fuel pressure is too high you'll over power the float and flood the motor. When you give it gas to drive, the accelerator pump fires a shot of gas into the throttle body to compensate for the rush of air that gets drawn in when the throttle plates open. If it didn't your motor would stall from too lean a mixture. If your running rich because your fuel pressure is too high, the shot of gas from the accelerator pump may be enough to flood it.
You could try putting a tee in the fuel line and connecting the fuel return to it. That will take some of the fuel and return it to tank and lower the pressure at the carb.

[treycw]

Thanks Andy 2. It was putting 6psi to the carb so I put a regulator between and dialled it down to 4 psi. Going to try 3psi tomorrow Kerrigan because it's still rich. Thanks again for the help and input

[geezer101]

Sorry but it looks like the Airtex E8004 isn't suitable for the Weber. You need a fuel pump that can handle more than 35 gph but only 3.5 PSI max pressure (the Airtex E8004 specs state 6PSI and 35 gph). Keep in mind that the Weber needs a bit more of an aggressive ignition tune to make the most of it - a good high output ignition coil and adjusting the timing to not only ensure you get a good, clean burn but to also get the engine to punch more from mid range rpm upwards. Something like this should be more suitable http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-x-42S-Univ...JY2VFc&vxp=mtr
Some sites recommend a pump like a Carter rotary pump with an output of 60-70 gph but I think that would be more for competition/racing as the carb would be always drawing a high CFM rate.

[Andy 2]

I use a Carter 4070 with a pressure regulator and have no issues other than the pump is a bit loud.

[treycw]

I have the fuel regulated to 3.5psi and a stock ignition and it's running okay.. just a little rich. What kind of ignition parts is everyone going with? I'll up grade the pump when I have a little extra cash and probably do ignition the same time.

[jamesw]

1988 dodge ram sport 2.6l with manual pump thinking about putting in a elec pump
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-12V-Low-...pYcE-F&vxp=mtr
just to see what difference it might make.
does it have to be mounted back by the tank on the frame or could i just block off the manual fuel pump lines and mount the elec fuel pump somewhere under the hood.
what difference will it make?
and what do i do with the return line coming off the manual pump?
do i just cap it off?

[geezer101]

You can just disconnect the lines and leave it where it is. Only time a mechanical pump can cause you grief is when the diaphragm in it splits and dumps fuel or it leaks oil (or it is tired and isn't supplying a constant/adequate amount of fuel). You will need a fuel recirculation cannister if you use an electric pump on the Mikuni carb as it has an external accelerator enrichment pump (the cannister has a main fuel in, one out and another line for the accelerator pump). The other connection on the accel pump housing connects to the tank return line. As for the coil replace it with a new coil (either a direct OEM or a transformer type coil with the same OHM rating) and as long as the rest of your ignition components are good all you'll need to do is retune the engine. I would install the pump as close to the fuel tank as possible so it won't struggle to prime from empty and will be quieter (add a filter before the pump as well to protect it from junk going through it and wearing it out)

*looked at the ebay listing above, my opinion is you can buy better quality and quieter pumps for a few bucks more (a hint - look at the Mr Gasket pumps and then compare them to the Carbole brand. Notice anything?)

[jamesw]

You can just disconnect the lines and leave it where it is. Only time a mechanical pump can cause you grief is when the diaphragm in it splits and dumps fuel or it leaks oil (or it is tired and isn't supplying a constant/adequate amount of fuel). You will need a fuel recirculation cannister if you use an electric pump on the Mikuni carb as it has an external accelerator enrichment pump (the cannister has a main fuel in, one out and another line for the accelerator pump). The other connection on the accel pump housing connects to the tank return line. As for the coil replace it with a new coil (either a direct OEM or a transformer type coil with the same OHM rating) and as long as the rest of your ignition components are good all you'll need to do is retune the engine. I would install the pump as close to the fuel tank as possible so it won't struggle to prime from empty and will be quieter (add a filter before the pump as well to protect it from junk going through it and wearing it out)

*looked at the ebay listing above, my opinion is you can buy better quality and quieter pumps for a few bucks more (a hint - look at the Mr Gasket pumps and then compare them to the Carbole brand. Notice anything?)

ok thanks geezer i forgot to mention that i,m running a weber carb as for the cheap pump i was just eye balling the cheapest ones i will go with a better brand now that i have a direction to go thanks again
http://www.ebay.com/itm/291917097087...MakeTrack=true

[geezer101]

When I finally get around to rekitting my 34DATA Weber and swapping the head + modded manifold I'll be using one of those Carbole 42S pumps. I have a Carter 4070 pump in my stockpile but it was noisy as all get out and the 42S pump is nice and compact (plus it's the same as a Mr Gasket pump without the price tag).

[BradMph]

If your running rich on your weber, I'm sure you know to re-jet them to lean/richen then out to your specs or elevation. The pump shouldn't really matter if it is regulated properly to the carb which looks like you have. FYI

Not sure if that was mentioned. I thought I would bring it up just in case.

[Kerrigan]

That's the one I got for Mitzi ...

Sorry but it looks like the Airtex E8004 isn't suitable for the Weber. You need a fuel pump that can handle more than 35 gph but only 3.5 PSI max pressure (the Airtex E8004 specs state 6PSI and 35 gph). Keep in mind that the Weber needs a bit more of an aggressive ignition tune to make the most of it - a good high output ignition coil and adjusting the timing to not only ensure you get a good, clean burn but to also get the engine to punch more from mid range rpm upwards. Something like this should be more suitable http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-x-42S-Univ...JY2VFc&vxp=mtr
Some sites recommend a pump like a Carter rotary pump with an output of 60-70 gph but I think that would be more for competition/racing as the carb would be always drawing a high CFM rate.

[Kerrigan]

I was told the cleanest installation on the stock motor is to remove ALL the pollution control crap, leaving just the valve cover breather (unless you want a free-breathing external filter on it), hook up the fuel pump (3 psi type) without fuel tank return or vapor canister crap, and the vacuum advance line. Everything else can be scrapped, so the expert said.

[Kerrigan]

And you're going to want to grab one of these ... few remaining. Fuel pump block off plate.
Delphi Fuel Pump Block-Off Plate FA0007

[geezer101]

I was told the cleanest installation on the stock motor is to remove ALL the pollution control crap, leaving just the valve cover breather (unless you want a free-breathing external filter on it), hook up the fuel pump (3 psi type) without fuel tank return or vapor canister crap, and the vacuum advance line. Everything else can be scrapped, so the expert said.

That will depend on what Weber carb you're using. If it has a return line and a fuel bowl breather you should retain the connections into the fuel tank. I have actually cut the EGR gallery completely off the manifold I have modified for the 34DATA I will be installing and had the EGR port through the head sealed off. The 4G63 has a differently designed fuel pump to the 4G54 so I am probably going to make my own block off plate to delete it. The anti pollution stuff on these engines makes them dirtier to run than what they are capable of without it...

[pennyman1]

Geronimo ran clean without any of the pollution crap and with no cat. But when I had the exhaust done the last time, I had to put one on or my exhaust guy wouldn't do it. He actually runs better with a little back pressure - the exhaust without it was too good and killed off low end torque.

[Kerrigan]

Installing the Weber made in Spain for the manual tranny with throttle linkage on the correct side, with electric choke. On a 1980 D-50. So ... the issue now is install it stripping out ALL DEQ crap, .... or having to leave some of it ... like vapor cannister, etc.
The instruction manual appears to say "dump it all" and just hook up vacuum line, valve cover breather hose, and fuel in line from a 3.0psi pump.
So which is the correct way??

[geezer101]

If the carb you have installed doesn't have a fuel bowl vent outlet/connection to the vapour cannister or a fuel return line, remove the cannister and cap the lines off (all deleted vacuum lines included). There isn't a 'correct' way to do the install, just the way that best suits your end goal.

[maxdsm]

Pics for Weber thread. : these are to help anyone with there install.
Will be adding more .

[Kerrigan]

That setup looks different from what I'll end up with ... my throttle cable hooks right up like stock.

[geezer101]

There are a number of throttle configurations with Weber carbs. They have clockwise, counter clockwise, opposing side and opposing end throttle linkages. We have a write up on model identification codes and what they mean.

[Kerrigan]

Couldn't find the link to the list ... is it on this site?

There are a number of throttle configurations with Weber carbs. They have clockwise, counter clockwise, opposing side and opposing end throttle linkages. We have a write up on model identification codes and what they mean.

[jamesw]

Couldn't find the link to the list ... is it on this site?

http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...fication+codes

[Kerrigan]

I just installed a Weber 32/36 on my 80 d50 and i love it!

I'm getting ready to do the same on my 1980 2.6 ltr D-50. Have a 3psi electric pump by the tank.
Any helpful hints about the install, especially what you did with all the pollution control stuff - vapor tank, ERG valve, etc.
Thanks!