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Thread: Weber 32/36

  1. #201

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    Quote Originally Posted by geezer101 View Post
    If the carb you have installed doesn't have a fuel bowl vent outlet/connection to the vapour cannister or a fuel return line, remove the cannister and cap the lines off (all deleted vacuum lines included). There isn't a 'correct' way to do the install, just the way that best suits your end goal.
    Is there any need to keep the EGR valve and associated hose?

  2. #202

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    Nope, ditch the lot. It is an inherent part of the issues with these engines - the EGR system messes with the engine tune and most of the time no longer functions due them being fouled up by carbon. You can simply disconnect the vacuum hoses to the EGR valve as they don't on draw manifold vacuum internally (obviously cap off the vacuum barb the EGR valve hose was connected to on the manifold or you will have a vac leak as a result).

  3. #203

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    Quote Originally Posted by geezer101 View Post
    Nope, ditch the lot. It is an inherent part of the issues with these engines - the EGR system messes with the engine tune and most of the time no longer functions due them being fouled up by carbon. You can simply disconnect the vacuum hoses to the EGR valve as they don't on draw manifold vacuum internally (obviously cap off the vacuum barb the EGR valve hose was connected to on the manifold or you will have a vac leak as a result).
    yeppers agreed that what i did when i installed mine got rid of all the mess i was amazed at how much room there was afterwards lol the only thing i have hooked up is the vacuum advance from the distributor to the carb caped everything else off

  4. #204

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    Thanks you-all!! Going with the strip-it-all approach. What did you do with the exhaust manifold heat shield and piping (huge)?

  5. #205

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    A friend of mine recommended a simple but practical solution - remove the tube and install an o2 sensor. Plugs the hole and gives you something to monitor your engine tune. I had an EGO meter in another project and nothing gives you a more accurate indicator of how your mixtures are looking in real time. I would leave the heat shielding as the factory manifold isn't a work of art and you really need to do everything you can to keep engine bay temps down.

  6. #206

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    What about the big pipe which comes from the heat shield and wraps around the rear of the valve cover? Can it go?

    Quote Originally Posted by geezer101 View Post
    A friend of mine recommended a simple but practical solution - remove the tube and install an o2 sensor. Plugs the hole and gives you something to monitor your engine tune. I had an EGO meter in another project and nothing gives you a more accurate indicator of how your mixtures are looking in real time. I would leave the heat shielding as the factory manifold isn't a work of art and you really need to do everything you can to keep engine bay temps down.

  7. #207

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    Yep, that can go too. You'll have to find a bung or cap to seal off the intake end of the pipework but it will get rid of the ridiculous amount of plumbing hanging off the engine and eliminate the risk of an exhaust/intake leak in the process. This EGR system was bad news for engine performance - you should be able to get it running really well once this junk has been deleted.

  8. #208

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    Quote Originally Posted by geezer101 View Post
    Yep, that can go too. You'll have to find a bung or cap to seal off the intake end of the pipework but it will get rid of the ridiculous amount of plumbing hanging off the engine and eliminate the risk of an exhaust/intake leak in the process. This EGR system was bad news for engine performance - you should be able to get it running really well once this junk has been deleted.
    when i got my weber it came with two plugs i put one in and about a week later i was going down the road and it blew out talk about loud lol sounded like open headers . so i put the other one in this time i used red loc tight so far so good.

  9. #209

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    Hi i'm not sure if this is the best place to post this, since i am new to the forum. I am wanting to replace my Mikuni with the weber 32/36. Its an 88 2.6 4wd. Not sure the differences between the few carbs that are offered. Can someone tell me which model it is that i need? Thanks!

  10. #210

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    My kit is the KM614 I think it's for the 1980 D-50 2.6 ltr with manual tranny, no mods required. Just installs cleanly.

  11. #211

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    So with my 2.6l 4wd 88 i need the 32/36 DFEV, Is that correct?

  12. #212

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    Don't know about it for the 88 ...mine is a 80.

    Quote Originally Posted by 87RAMFIDDY View Post
    So with my 2.6l 4wd 88 i need the 32/36 DFEV, Is that correct?

  13. #213

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    The carb configurations are all identical across the carbied trucks, so as long as you get the adapter kit and the throttle linkages are on the same side and rotation it's a straight forward enough deal. Guys with auto transmissions need a kick down adapter kit to go with it.

  14. #214

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    I must ask as i cant beleive theres nothing in here/barley any info on the entire web, about jetting these for the 4g54.

    Im running:

    Both idle jets:
    55
    Primary/secondary fuel:
    145/140
    Primary/secondary air jets:
    170/175

    This goes like stink, but it sucks gas ( not yet worked out the milage as my fuel gauge is a bit buggy)

    I have extractors, 2.5 all the way thru with a hotdog, m6 head, bottom end is out of a forklift with forged crank/forklift oil pump( so no balance shafts) ported top of manifold and an italian weber with the redline adapter smoothed out.

    Im running the mech fuel pump off the head, line into the weber and line out into the fuel return line on the chassis.
    Blocked off fuel return on the mech pump.

    Plz post what jets your running, as id love to fine tune the weber for a bit more economy

  15. #215

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    20171219_111135.jpg
    20171219_111148.jpg
    Fuel in on the right, return on the left. I'm not sure what the carb came off, its a DGAV 19A elec choke and the choke butterflies open down toward the fuelbowl.
    Other photo is the dodgy looking but effective throttle body cam I modified to work as I wanted the fuelbowl forward so the jets arnt starved from inertia.
    Also used a large spring off an old carter carb as a secondary throat kickdown and to make sure the throat is fully closed when off the gas. Theres a little resistance and a pop when the secondary's open

  16. #216




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    The mechanical pump over powers the weber needle and seat, forcing gas through the carb like you are dumping it in with a bucket. Change over to an electric pump at 4 psi, mounted at the tank will fix the problem. You must get the pressure right to the carb before messing with the jets.
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  17. #217

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    that picture has now changed, its no longer offered

  18. #218

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    Quote Originally Posted by Kerrigan View Post
    What about the big pipe which comes from the heat shield and wraps around the rear of the valve cover? Can it go?
    I dumped ALL EPA stuff; only kept the vaccum advance line, the idle-cut-off vacuum hose, and the crankcase breather pipe to the air cleaner. All the rest went. Runs great!
    Attached Images

  19. #219

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    OK better get this up quick smart - see that metal cannister with the coloured tape on it? HOLD ONTO THE DAMNED THING. This is super handy for doing the Weber swap and redirecting fuel lines for fuel return systems. If you can't use it, some else doing the Weber swap definitely will. It's from the single inlet in/out mechanical fuel pump.
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  20. #220




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    It is a fuel separator canister - it was on the early d50s up to 1981 in the US. Geronimo still has his.
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  21. #221

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    Quote Originally Posted by geezer101 View Post
    OK better get this up quick smart - see that metal cannister with the coloured tape on it? HOLD ONTO THE DAMNED THING. This is super handy for doing the Weber swap and redirecting fuel lines for fuel return systems. If you can't use it, some else doing the Weber swap definitely will. It's from the single inlet in/out mechanical fuel pump.
    Didn't need it to put the Weber on the 1980. One fuel line in, no return. Works great with just fuel line in, one vaccum advance line, and one crankcase vent breather pipe. Did leave the idle-cutout in to avoid more pipework.

  22. #222

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    Weber base choke adjustments 32/36


  23. #223

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    Here is what I did to replace a Weber I apparently screwed up when I rebuilt it. I put a new one in and its all good. I do have a 1/2" spacer made of some kind of heat resistant plastic which is necessary on mine as heat affects the carb without it. As for the exhaust manifold removal of the smog pipe, I used a freeze plug. The prev owner had removed all that stuff and one day driving it whatever he had plugged it with popped out. Blew my mind for a few until I figured it out. I think it was 1 1/8 or 1 1/4. Fits tight hammered it so the top is level with the top.
    http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...ine+weber+K610
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  24. #224

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    Any idea what you did wrong during the rebuild of the other Weber? New Weber looks good. Make sure you set the throttle stop as it prevents the butterflies from being seated up hard against the throat walls (looks like it wasn't set in the picture)
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  25. #225

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    I got all that worked out. The install as in July 2017. I have no idea what I did wrong. I learned to be a mechanic on this truck starting with that mistake. My previous experience had been rebuilding my Yamaha 750 triple (4 stroke) carbs. I didn't figure there would be any problem. I still have it stuffed in the box the new one came in. I also have some extra parts they sent along that seemed unnecessary or I did not need.
    Edit- In fact I have noticed that it is starting to get better mileage and take off from a stop better in the last few months. I think I might finally start breaking 300 miles on a tankful.
    Last edited by 85Ram50; 06-17-2018 at 01:05 PM.

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