Weber 32/36

ok but i ended up breaking that pipe off it was very brittle but i cant unscrew the part that went into the exaust maanifold its like the basterd is welded in there idk how to get the fucker out i spent an hour and a half justtrying to get it off and it wont budge any tips???

and i cant find the fast idle skrew where is it??? ive found the idle mix and idle speed but not the fast idle

Get a 24" 1/2 drive breaker bar from HF, a socket that fits the nut, an extension for the socket, and a 3-4" pipe that slides over the breaker bar, then soak the nut with penetrating oil and work the nut back and forth until it comes loose. Or heat the manifold around the nut with a torch until it is red hot, and use the breaker bar and socket to spin it out

Fast idle screw on a weber is behind the choke pod, almost touching it. come from the back of the carb between firewall and carb and towards the top of the back of the choke.

To adjust the choke, loosen the 3 screws and take the choke spring and turn it until the choke plate closes. Push the pedal to the floor once, the plate should open slighty. then start the truck - it should be on the first step of the cam - tap the pedal, it should step down to fast idle - adjust fast idle screw to 1400 to 1600 rpm. The carb will step down to regular idle as the choke warms up - if it drops too fast to curb idle, increase the spring tension on the choke.

anybody got any pics of there carb so i can see where exactly this fast idle adjustment is???

If you go to page 4 of this thread you can see pics posted of my Weber. They're about halfway down the page. If you look at the top right pic you see the Weber's white choke spring assembly. The fast idle screw is behind it. You have to get your head right down in there to see it. You also have to be careful adjusting it as it is easy to cause the choke to kick down. Tighten the screw to speed up the fast idle

Originally Posted by pennyman1

To adjust the choke, loosen the 3 screws and take the choke spring and turn it until the choke plate closes. Push the pedal to the floor once, the plate should open slighty. then start the truck - it should be on the first step of the cam - tap the pedal, it should step down to fast idle - adjust fast idle screw to 1400 to 1600 rpm. The carb will step down to regular idle as the choke warms up - if it drops too fast to curb idle, increase the spring tension on the choke.

is the screw in the center of the pic right behind the choke adjustment the fast idle adjustment?DSCN5477.jpg

Yes it is.

alright sweet my truck is now running perfect no more deiseling not running rich startes immediatly when cold now all i have left to do is get that friggin bolt out and plug it up and my work will be done im prolly just gonna ask my neighbor to do it lol thanks for your help guys

thats what we are here for...

Awesome read. Im ordering a Weber 32/36 and a header in the next couple weks for my 80 D50 2.6. Cant wait to get this solex carb and exhaust manifold off this engine LOL.

Just finished my install yesterday, and the difference is amazing! That big bolt from the egr tube was the hardest part of the process. I soaked it with kroil penetrating oil for about 2 hours while I was doing other work, heated it with a welding torch, oiled it again, then used a 30mm axle socket with a 24"breaker bar and a 3' cheater bar! Also sprayed the kroil inside the tube to get some on the inside as well. When it finally broke free I was so happy!

The truck was running so crappy for so long it belched out a ton of carbon and soot, and settled into a nice idle! New life in this truck, so now it's time to detail it out, and probably going to sell it. It's been a good little truck, but no room for it.

I've enjoyed this thread, it helped a lot, and I appreciate the help!

Oldsarge

It's really amazing how much the engine was held back by the OEM carb, huh? Like it was breathing through a straw. The Weber is jetted pretty well out the box but you can fine tune it and get it running even better with a Redline Weber 32/36 jet kit. There's an outfit in Washington that sells them on eBay.

Found it! The kickdown bracket I swore I had seen before. Scroll down part #45136.029 Throttle valve control lever (CU) 32/36 DGV DGEV DGAV

Pair that with one of the cable brackets. Would that work or is this a dead end?

http://www.carburetion.com/sitesearc...%20Carburetors

so that is what that is for - I think I have 1 or 2 of those laying around somewhere...

I think my conversion kit came with one as well. I can't wrap my head around how it would work though. When someone figures it out I'd like to see a pic.

I am not sure if I should start a new thread or not, but I believe my questions seem to fit best within this thread. I've only posted a few times on this forum, so if this assumption is false someone point it out.

Some background: I have a '85 Dodge Ram 50 4wd pickup, manual tran with the 2.6l engine. Some, but not all, of the emissions equipment had been ripped out or disconnected when I bought it. It gave terrible gas mileage, ran so rich the cab reeked of gas when it was started and it idled very poorly both cold and hot. After reading up on this and other forums, I decided to get a progressive Weber 32/36 (not a knockoff). After speaking with the order guy on the phone he confirmed that a K610 was the correct kit to order.

Since the throttle plate opens counterclockwise, instead of clockwise (the mikuni) and is on the right side of the carb instead of the left (the mikuni) with the gas port on the front also on the right side of the carb instead of the left, I am thinking this is NOT the right kit for this pickup.

Is there a Weber kit that would install easier onto my truck than the K610? The features I am most interested in is a throttle plate which opens the throttle in a CLOCKWISE direction instead of counterclockwise and gas inlet tube on the left instead of the right.

NOTE: I am assuming there actually IS a 32/35 Weber carb kit which has these features. However if this kit is the closest match for my truck I will stop whining and get to the necessary mods. :-)

I have already dry fitted (no loctite or grease) this kit to my manifold and it fits fine except for the things I have mentioned.

Thanks

Matthew

If your throttle cable has the cylindrical end you might want to look at the k614.
I think that k610 carb is supposed to mount with the linkage at the front. That will make the throttle cable pull from the right side. Here are the reassembly instructions for the k610. Note line #17.

Universal Reassembly W/ REDLINE WEBER CARBURETOR



15. Remove rag from manifold opening. Install the carburetor adaptor as follows; (Use Loctite on all bolts and
studs during installation of adaptor.)

a. Select the gasket that matches the intake manifold carburetor-mounting surface and coat it with
grease or a suitable gasket sealer (Silicone or RTV is NOT suitable). Install the universal adaptor
noting the position of the carburetor for the cable operation. Torque nuts to 12 ft. lbs.

b. Install the 8mm studs with the kit into the top adaptor half. Hand tighten these studs.

c. Set the carburetor base gasket over the studs on the adaptor. Install the Weber carburetor onto the
adaptor and gasket. Install the throttle cable bracket on the two mounting studs opposite the choke
housing. Install washers and nuts supplied. Torque the carburetor nuts to 12 ft. lbs.

d. Cycle the linkage by hand to check for sticking or binding. Remember over tightening causes
binding. Correct any linkage problems now before proceeding. NOTE: the automatic choke will
be set in the cold start position and unless the choke plate is held open the throttle will not return to
the fully closed position.

16. Install the three position throttle lever with the holes towards the top of the carburetor following the directions
in the bench assembly instructions.

17. Install the carburetor to the adaptor with the linkage toward the front of the vehicle and tighten to 12 ft lbs.

18. Use a "keyed" 12 volt source to connect to the choke and the idle cutoff valve.

19. Connect the throttle cable bracket to the valve cover and connect the throttle cable to the linkage. Check for
full throttle position and free throttle movement. If there is any throttle bind correct the problem before
proceeding.

20. Connect the fuel line from the pump to the carburetor with the supplied hose.

21. Connect the vacuum advance port to the distributor with the supplied hose.

sounds like you got the dgev carb - if you want it to work like the original, then you want a dfev carb k614. I have been running a dgev carb on Geronimo for over 30 years with the linkage in the front of the carb - the boomerang bracket is what relocates the cable to work with the carb.

ok, I did not know what that flat L shaped bracket was for--I will do some more research. thanks.

Matthew

Go to my gallery pics - #16 shows the carb installed with boomerang

Ok, Looking at #16--I don't see the boomerang plate--the throttle cable seems to be sitting on top of the valve cover before it attaches to the throttle assembly on the carb.

Btw, I noticed that last february, you and some other users were answering the questions posed by another user who was asking just about exactly the same questions I am asking now in this thread http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...uestions/page2.
It seems he ended up ordering the 90 degree bracket which is displayed in the instructions but does not come in kit. I may do the same unless I can figure out how to make the boomerang bracket work--doesn't it require another part which he also didn't receive in the kit? I don't seem to have that part either, just the boomerang.

I believe I found a picture that illustrates what you are saying Pennyman1--I think it is from the old mightyram50 site:
DSCF1852.jpg

Yep that's what I was talking about - the angle of the pic doesn't show it as well as this one does.