Thanks for the guide. It was what I was looking for to make sure that I did not miss anything. I am going to have to make a mod to hookup the kick down cable for my automatic transmission also, wish me luck.
Thanks for the guide. It was what I was looking for to make sure that I did not miss anything. I am going to have to make a mod to hookup the kick down cable for my automatic transmission also, wish me luck.
I made a block-off plate for the fuel pump. It was not to hard. Used the plastic spacer as Andy 2 said and done.
Ram50Man wrote..."i found a guy that is willing to swap carb for carb plus $50. Not sure what kinda weber it is though, my thought is any weber has to be better than the factory Mikuni garbage though, right?"
I found 2 Weber conversion kits that come with 32/36 carbs for our trucks. The K614 carb is a DFEV and its throttle rotates clockwise. It is most like the Mikuni when mounted with the throttle control toward the firewall. It is said to be for the auto trans trucks and the throttle cable lines up above the kickdown cable. There is, however, no linkage piece to connect the kickdown cable which seems silly. I know this kit will work on 2nd gen. trucks with manual trans as well with no linkage issues.
The K610 carb is somewhat the reverse of the K614. It is a DGEV carb and its throttle rotates counter clockwise. If this carb was mounted with the throttle toward the firewall, the throttle cable would have to pull away from the engine, and the choke would be on the engine side of the carb. It mounts with the cable control toward the front of the truck. This kit does not come with the Mikuni style cable attachment piece (the 1/4 circle with the hole for the cable end). I got this one for the 4x4 which is a 5 speed and had to trim and weld my Mikuni cable attachment to the Webers. Both carbs are 32/36, and both have electric choke, but they are not the same carb. If you don't want to have issues with the cable attachment, I would try and get the right Weber.
For those people who were told an auto kickdown bracket doesn't exist - look above the exhaust plugs: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Chrysler-Maz...item5d4d4ceba5 . The kit is from Redline to boot!
Pennyman1
The best Dodge that Dodge never made
Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980
That kit comes with a carb too!Originally Posted by pennyman1
that picture has now changed, its no longer offered
But the adaptor for the kickdown does exist as a weber part.
Pennyman1
The best Dodge that Dodge never made
Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980
I'd like to know if anyone has gotten that kickdown linkage to work without needing extra parts.
Ok so i recently installed a weber on my truck i have two questions... i have two large bolts idk what they are for and my next question its running too rich ive adjusted the carb to run when i first turn on my truck but it makes it run rich i believe the idle should be higher while warming up but is not how do i fix this and how do i get my maintenance required light to turn off?
My kits came with two large "bolts" also. I believe they are plugs for the exhaust manifold where the reed valve pipe threads in. Those Weber kits come with parts for both 2.6L and 2.0L engines. If you take the reed valve off you will need one of them to screw back into the manifold.
If you look at the instructions that came with the kit, you will see a section called Carburetor Adjustments on page 5. If you don't have them any more look here...http://nebula.wsimg.com/a04c1c5ad703...&alloworigin=1
I didn't know there was a maintenance light on these carbureted trucks. lol . Its probably for the emissions system, EGR and O2 sensor service. You won't be using those now that you have installed the Weber. I would take the instrument panel out and remove the light bulb so you never have to see it again.
ok but i ended up breaking that pipe off it was very brittle but i cant unscrew the part that went into the exaust maanifold its like the basterd is welded in there idk how to get the fucker out i spent an hour and a half justtrying to get it off and it wont budge any tips???
and i cant find the fast idle skrew where is it??? ive found the idle mix and idle speed but not the fast idle
Get a 24" 1/2 drive breaker bar from HF, a socket that fits the nut, an extension for the socket, and a 3-4" pipe that slides over the breaker bar, then soak the nut with penetrating oil and work the nut back and forth until it comes loose. Or heat the manifold around the nut with a torch until it is red hot, and use the breaker bar and socket to spin it out
Pennyman1
The best Dodge that Dodge never made
Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980
Fast idle screw on a weber is behind the choke pod, almost touching it. come from the back of the carb between firewall and carb and towards the top of the back of the choke.
To adjust the choke, loosen the 3 screws and take the choke spring and turn it until the choke plate closes. Push the pedal to the floor once, the plate should open slighty. then start the truck - it should be on the first step of the cam - tap the pedal, it should step down to fast idle - adjust fast idle screw to 1400 to 1600 rpm. The carb will step down to regular idle as the choke warms up - if it drops too fast to curb idle, increase the spring tension on the choke.
Pennyman1
The best Dodge that Dodge never made
Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980
is the screw in the center of the pic right behind the choke adjustment the fast idle adjustment?DSCN5477.jpg
anybody got any pics of there carb so i can see where exactly this fast idle adjustment is???
If you go to page 4 of this thread you can see pics posted of my Weber. They're about halfway down the page. If you look at the top right pic you see the Weber's white choke spring assembly. The fast idle screw is behind it. You have to get your head right down in there to see it. You also have to be careful adjusting it as it is easy to cause the choke to kick down. Tighten the screw to speed up the fast idle
Yes it is.
alright sweet my truck is now running perfect no more deiseling not running rich startes immediatly when cold now all i have left to do is get that friggin bolt out and plug it up and my work will be done im prolly just gonna ask my neighbor to do it lol thanks for your help guys
thats what we are here for...
Pennyman1
The best Dodge that Dodge never made
Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980
Awesome read. Im ordering a Weber 32/36 and a header in the next couple weks for my 80 D50 2.6. Cant wait to get this solex carb and exhaust manifold off this engine LOL.
Just finished my install yesterday, and the difference is amazing! That big bolt from the egr tube was the hardest part of the process. I soaked it with kroil penetrating oil for about 2 hours while I was doing other work, heated it with a welding torch, oiled it again, then used a 30mm axle socket with a 24"breaker bar and a 3' cheater bar! Also sprayed the kroil inside the tube to get some on the inside as well. When it finally broke free I was so happy!
The truck was running so crappy for so long it belched out a ton of carbon and soot, and settled into a nice idle! New life in this truck, so now it's time to detail it out, and probably going to sell it. It's been a good little truck, but no room for it.
I've enjoyed this thread, it helped a lot, and I appreciate the help!
Oldsarge
It's really amazing how much the engine was held back by the OEM carb, huh? Like it was breathing through a straw. The Weber is jetted pretty well out the box but you can fine tune it and get it running even better with a Redline Weber 32/36 jet kit. There's an outfit in Washington that sells them on eBay.
Found it! The kickdown bracket I swore I had seen before. Scroll down part #45136.029 Throttle valve control lever (CU) 32/36 DGV DGEV DGAV
Pair that with one of the cable brackets. Would that work or is this a dead end?
http://www.carburetion.com/sitesearc...%20Carburetors
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