I was gonna say the same thing about that carb. It doesn't look like the one I just installed. Very similar but I don't see any "WEBER" in any castings.
I managed to hook up the shifter cable by making up my own linkage parts. I used a bit of 304 stainless from the scrap bin at work, and bought some stainless hardware.WP_000096.jpgWP_000097.jpg
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nice work - that looks like you put some time into that! You thought about making a few of those and selling them on here?
Pennyman1
The best Dodge that Dodge never made
Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980
Thanks Pennyman1. It did take a bit of time figuring it out. Cereal box cardboard is great for making templates for stuff like this. When you get it the way you want it, just unfold it and trace it out on the metal. The oblong hole for the shaft took a good hour to drill and file to fit and was the hardest part. I hadn't thought about selling them. I'm surprised that Redline does not include anything in the kit for that cable. They advertise it as being for the truck with automatic.
that linkage adaptor is extra - the kits that are for auto trucks should come with them, but yours did not for some reason. You did great with making a solution that works.
Pennyman1
The best Dodge that Dodge never made
Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980
i just installed a weber can i get any help i need pictures of all around the vacuum lines everything i cant get my truck to run once i installed it please help
Hi, welcome to the site. If you look at the pics I posted you'll see one vacuum line going from the bottom of the weber to the distributor. This is the only one you will need. Any other vacuum ports on the manifold need to be capped off. If you look below the carb in my pic you'll see the brass plug i used to replace the vacuum fitting that had about 5 tubes coming out of it. I replaced the thermo valves with brass plugs also. The line you see coming from the EGR valve is just for show. I ran it to the aluminum box on the fender where half of the old vacuum lines went anyway. The emissions test places like to see it hooked up or they won't test the vehicle.
I had to squirt a bit of gas down the carb to get it to fire at first and after that no troubles. If you are using the mechanical fuel pump you could be cranking for a while to fill the float bowl before it'll fire. Try dumping a bottle cap of gas down the carb, make sure the choke is on and crank it over. It may take more than one try if all the fuel has drained back to the fuel tank.
The lack of an affordable auto linkage has come up a few times here and on other forums where they use this carb. Might be worth it to make a few and sell them. Looks professional.
Fuel, Spark, Mechanical....I'm sure mechanical is OK, Be sure your getting fuel and spark and follow thru on Andy's info.
That linkage was not all that difficult to make, but it was quite time consuming. I made it at work on my lunch breaks. All you need are a grinder, a vise, drill, small file or dremel, and a hammer.... plus a bit of patience. The most important thing is to maintain the relationship between the shifter cable and the throttle plate. I made sure the distance between the centre of the holes was the same as that of the Mikuni linkage, and that the holes were the same size . I wanted the cable to pull the same distance with respect to the throttle position. The straight piece is to compensate for the adapter plates and there was not a predetermined length for this so long as it wasn't too short. There is plenty of adjustment in the adjuster to set the cable tension. There is no quick way for me to make up a quantity of these and be able to sell them cheaply. I had to grind and file and fit the piece using old school methods and would have to remove it from the carb to do it again. If I had made the pieces up before I installed the carb it probably would have been easier and I would recommend that to anyone who wants to make one.
Air leak, gasket issue. take some soapy water mix and shoot it around the base. If the throttle raises you found your squeak. Or maybe a mouse has made a home in it.
I got pretty much the same malarky from the place on eBay where I got mine also.
Take a look at this kit - its an old linkage adaptor set on eBay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Weber-carbur...9ea959&vxp=mtr or this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Redline-Webe...5d2357&vxp=mtr
Pennyman1
The best Dodge that Dodge never made
Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980
I am surprised redline didn't have a better answer for this problem. Sometimes creating your own piece to fit the carb for the kick down could work or modify the old carb's piece to fit the weber if it's available. Seems frustrating when the manufacturer is sort of brushing you off. Keep us posted.
The linkage I made works perfectly. The pics are on page 4 of this thread. All you need is a bit of 12 gauge mild steel and a few tools. I made the tricky piece out of cereal box cardboard first using the Weber linkage to hold it against to figure out where to bend it.Then I used the Mikuni linkage as a reference for the throttle shaft hole and cable hole positions. This is necessary to keep the relationship between the accelerator and the shift cable the same. If the correct distance between these holes is not maintained the tranny will not shift or kick down properly. I made a few cardboard pieces before getting one that I liked. From start to finish I think it took me about 4 hours. I had to keep walking back and forth from the truck to the vise when filing out the hole for the throttle shaft.
Not everyone has your skills or the tools to do what you did, it is a fine piece of work. I understand that it is also not something you can do and make a lot of money at it. We just need someone with a 3d printer to scan it and then it could be printed out whenever one is needed. Not likely in this economy though...
Pennyman1
The best Dodge that Dodge never made
Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980
I think that anyone who can do this carb swap would understand the principle. You are probably right in that not everyone would have the tools to make those two pieces. Perhaps, if one were to take a cardboard model of the pieces to a high school metalworking shop, someone there would be willing to help. I would think they are always looking for something new and challenging to do. The cost would probably be minimal as well.
Do you still have the cardboard template and indications where to bend the metal?
I believe it is in my toolbox at work. I could trace it, dimension it, scan it, and post it here if you think it will help.
that would be great if you could do that - it will help anyone doing a weber on an auto tranny truck.
Pennyman1
The best Dodge that Dodge never made
Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980
Here is the tricky piece.
IMG.jpg
For the straight piece, I just measured from the cable hole to the hole in tricky piece, and added about 1/2". So long as it's not too short there is lots of adjustment in the adjuster on the manifold. There is on my '88 that is. I used a #10 machine screw with jam nuts to join the two pieces.
Nice work Andy, I may make a request for a kick down on my Tbird, lol. Glad to see it posted here, definitely should help someone. Keep it in your Gallery for quick locating.
I do like the pictures for the DIY kickdown linkage... I personally have no issues building one. I see his carb has the throttle fitting on the firewall side of the carb... Mine is on the radiator side of the carb. I think ill need to fab some sort of bell crank. Just not sure how much movement is needed as I never had the factory set up in place.
Sounds like you have the carb made for the manual tranny. Being as the cable is connected to the throttle shaft you will need to be able to pull the cable from any throttle position to cause the tranny to kick down at any speed. The tension setting at zero throttle determines when the tranny will shift under normal acceleration. Too tight and the tranny shifts gears at higher speeds and vise versa.
Here's a page from my Haynes manual.
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Mr. Gasket 1516 works for a fuel pump block off plate drilling out the holes slightly.
This might help you...http://nebula.wsimg.com/a04c1c5ad703...&alloworigin=1
As for a block off plate,if you want to make your own, you can use the plastic spacer for the fuel pump as a template, and cut a piece of metal the same shape with the same holes. I used 304 stainless steel about 1/8" thick.
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