Weber 32/36

[Uneek98]

Got me on the advance, forgot about it. But that's just one line from the dizzy.

As for a block plate, if you have access to some basic hand tools, make one out of a piece of scrap aluminum. All I did.

Thanks man.......any idea where to get the aluminum?? Also what thickness did you use? Also did u keep the spacer on?

[Acuta73]

I just had some scrap sheet laying around, used the spacer and epoxy'd the sheet to it. Works, but not the greatest. Best would be to find a piece of ~1/4" and buy a couple shorter bolts. Can use a gasket or just some grey RTV for install.

[pennyman1]

I made my blockoff plate out of some scrap s/s sheet I cut out of a poker machine to install a bill acceptor - I used the spacer as a template. There is no oil pressure against it, and not a real high temperature, so as long as you use silicone form a gasket to seal it, you could use heavy gauge sheet steel to make the plate. As for the vac advance, connect it to the fitting on the carb above the throttle plate - its the ported vacuum fitting and is different than full vacuum from below the throttle plate. Ported vacuum will increase and pull the vac advance as the throttle opens, whereas full vacuum drops as the throttle opens, and the vac advance will not move.

[Uneek98]

I made my blockoff plate out of some scrap s/s sheet I cut out of a poker machine to install a bill acceptor - I used the spacer as a template. There is no oil pressure against it, and not a real high temperature, so as long as you use silicone form a gasket to seal it, you could use heavy gauge sheet steel to make the plate. As for the vac advance, connect it to the fitting on the carb above the throttle plate - its the ported vacuum fitting and is different than full vacuum from below the throttle plate. Ported vacuum will increase and pull the vac advance as the throttle opens, whereas full vacuum drops as the throttle opens, and the vac advance will not move.

Alright thanks....

[TheProspector]

Does anybody have a link or part # to the fuel pump we need for the weber conversion to function correctly?

Also how is this fuel pump mounted? Is it going in the actual tank or are we routing as an inline pump? I am ordering my weber tonight and trying to make this install as smooth as possible.

[mitchugh]

Does anybody have a link or part # to the fuel pump we need for the weber conversion to function correctly?

Also how is this fuel pump mounted? Is it going in the actual tank or are we routing as an inline pump? I am ordering my weber tonight and trying to make this install as smooth as possible.

I'd also be interested in this too. Where did you order your weber from?

[netskink]

I recently purchased a weber from carbs.us

[TheProspector]

Does anybody have a link or part # to the fuel pump we need for the weber conversion to function correctly?

Also how is this fuel pump mounted? Is it going in the actual tank or are we routing as an inline pump? I am ordering my weber tonight and trying to make this install as smooth as possible.

[BradMph]

I just ordered the Carter 4070 Fuel pump off ebay for $60.00 delivered for free. The reviews and recommendations were pretty good. It should arrive soon. This was my preference only though from researching through forums and other sources. You will probably get a few other types that folks use also.

Carter#180-P4070
Electric Fuel Pump
Pump with 1/4" NPT Inlet and Outlet
4-6 psi Output
No Regulator Required
72 gph Free Flow
Carter P4070_fuel pumpKit.jpg

[derek6790]

Hello. You mentioned the difference of having the throttle behind or in front of the carb. I have a the 34/34 dgec Solex, and it works fine, but i have heard that it has around 300 cfm, while the 32/36 dgev Weber has 325 cfm. I'd like to get better economy but also more cfm at full throttle. My throttle is behind the carb and pulls toward the passenger side. Suggestions on which variation of electric choke Weber to use?

[mopar_ja]

Hello. You mentioned the difference of having the throttle behind or in front of the carb. I have a the 34/34 dgec Solex, and it works fine, but i have heard that it has around 300 cfm, while the 32/36 dgev Weber has 325 cfm. I'd like to get better economy but also more cfm at full throttle. My throttle is behind the carb and pulls toward the passenger side. Suggestions on which variation of electric choke Weber to use?

you could go no electric choke and run manual that's what i'm doing.

[77amc]

I tried a 'yard' weber on my '86 auto 2.6 and have never adapted my kick-down T.V. linkage. (just up and down shifted manually)
ALWAYS had an issue of starting and running for about 15sec and die.. then would turn over, and over and after about 2min finally fires and finally run. Now, I did get some larger idle jets since it's a 2.6 and the off-idle acceleration seemed to help lots, but NO tire burner by ANY means..
This is using the stock head mounted pump since i pulled the OUT line and man, it sprayed about 5'! So, it stayed. Stock, truck intake too.

(stay with me here..) Picked up a '85 civic hatchback and pulled the miles of vacuum lines off with stock carb and used the trucks' 32/36 carb.
and dangit!! same thing. Even with the electric idle valve hooked up.

GOT on Ebay and picked up a couple more 32's but that took me a couple of weeks. (for the civic and the truck)
In the meantime, I got some scrap aluminum and was digging through my crap and found a ol Rochester dual jet carb (2bbl) that I rebuilt a couple years ago, found an old Conquest 2.6 intake, cut it down, got rid of the EGR and water heating portions and popped it on.
Got it running but can't seem to upload it to here like you kids are doing. Imageshack has all my other stuff held in ransom unless I upgrade, then I can
post a pic or vid.
BUT MAN!! talk about throttle response! MPG will probably drop since those two jets/squirters squirt ANY TIME you move that throttle.
AND, the stock auto T.V. linkage is only about 1.5" away.. NOTHING that a little welding can't take care of though. Another thing is that the kick-down
WILL be hooked up this time.

While I wait for the rebuild kits and carb cleaner to get in all those nooks and cranny's I'll mess with this Rochester.
Pennyman, Camoit.. If I can send you some pics/vids of the rochester running for you guys to post would help.

ANOTHER project I'm kinda messing with is to cut the stock carb intake where the ports come together in a "Y" and have two Cycle carb side drafts or two 34ICT's from a Bug application. (Even USED, they're expensive little buggers for whatcha get)

IS THIS THREAD JACKING?? Not really. I'll still get the stock 2.6 auto intake going with the 32/36 after I rebuild it and swap it out to see the difference between the Weber and Rochester.
NOW, you gotta understand that the difference between fuel demands between a 2.0 and a 2.6 is HUGE.. Just sayin

Just a different look at 'carburetion'. Not everyone here can drop about 300-450.00 for weber/adapter/fuel pump. i picked up the Rochester
for under 25.00, rebuild kit was about 20, adapter was pretty much free, just time (and a tube of liquid metal for any imperfections. NOT that i had any..)

OH, For the guys that have an AUTO truck, the sources state to use the STOCK carb linkage/cable pull eccentric for accelerator AND kick-down linkage.
Now, looking at it I thought "these guys are NUTS" and it's nowhere near working the TV cable/linkage..
BUT, that's what "THEY" recommend.
I found this out by contacting the suppliers that show an AUTO application but the exploded view doesn't show ANY kickdown adaptation(s) and
put them on the spot by asking them, how the heck one connects it..?

Here is some good reading also. FOCUS here.. I know it's British car stuff but good info nonetheless.
and click and search the links too and if the links have links..
Some Weber places are really tight lipped on what size jets/tubes and such are in what carb.. BUT I can't seem to find it on my laptop.

In addition to carb work, PLEASE check your timing and vacuum advance FIRST!! Then start looking at the carb stuff.
There are symptoms that seem like a carb issue but really are advance/or timing/or vacuum leaks..

OK, Ok.. I'll shut up and get to work.

Errol

[pennyman1]

Sounds great that you got the rochester carb to work, but not everyone here has the time or talent to make that conversion. There are also holley weber 5200s out there from 80s k cars that can be used and are similar to the webers, as they were a weber licensed design, but are finicky due to the emissions parts on them. The rochester sounds like it would be like a dges 38 in operation. I have a set of kawasaki sidedraft fuel injection throttle bodies with injectors and spare intakes that I am going to see if I can fab up for one of my trucks soon - this is a big mod for nissan 240sx and other 4 cyl cars.

[Pooklord]

I am not sure if I should start a new thread or not, but I believe my questions seem to fit best within this thread. I've only posted a few times on this forum, so if this assumption is false someone point it out.

Some background: I have a '85 Dodge Ram 50 4wd pickup, manual tran with the 2.6l engine. Some, but not all, of the emissions equipment had been ripped out or disconnected when I bought it. It gave terrible gas mileage, ran so rich the cab reeked of gas when it was started and it idled very poorly both cold and hot. After reading up on this and other forums, I decided to get a progressive Weber 32/36 (not a knockoff). After speaking with the order guy on the phone he confirmed that a K610 was the correct kit to order.

Since the throttle plate opens counterclockwise, instead of clockwise (the mikuni) and is on the right side of the carb instead of the left (the mikuni) with the gas port on the front also on the right side of the carb instead of the left, I am thinking this is NOT the right kit for this pickup.

Is there a Weber kit that would install easier onto my truck than the K610? The features I am most interested in is a throttle plate which opens the throttle in a CLOCKWISE direction instead of counterclockwise and gas inlet tube on the left instead of the right.

NOTE: I am assuming there actually IS a 32/35 Weber carb kit which has these features. However if this kit is the closest match for my truck I will stop whining and get to the necessary mods. :-)

I have already dry fitted (no loctite or grease) this kit to my manifold and it fits fine except for the things I have mentioned.

Thanks

Matthew

[crashman911]

What kind of HP improvement comes with the weber 32/36 on a stock 87 dodge ram 50 2.0

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[Uneek98]

Will the weber adapter plates from g63b work on a g52b?

[camoit]

Will the weber adapter plates from g63b work on a g52b?

I beleve they will. It uses the same carb it's just a 2.0 VS 2.6.

[Uneek98]

I beleve they will. It uses the same carb it's just a 2.0 VS 2.6.

Thanks

[pennyman1]

they will fit - the adaptor is made to cover any of the mitsu based motors

[Uneek98]

Awesome thanks.

[Law Dog]

What MPG are some of you guys getting? I'm getting a little over 13 MPG with my stock carb what can I expect from a Spanish Weber carb set-up? 2.6 5 speed in mine.

[pennyman1]

much better than 13 mpg - I get 25mpg with Geronimo running at 80 - 85, but I also have a header and a custom 2.25 inch flowmaster exhaust with the proper jetting

[Law Dog]

Heck if I got 18 I'd be thrilled 25MPG would be euphoric!

Thanks Jerry

[noahwins]

I'm a little confused about the return line on the 32/36. I don't see this green arrow connection on my Weber. I guess mine wasn't a "California" model. I see there are the two inlets at a 30* angle for fuel, so you can get fuel no matter how you orient the carb. My question is since I don't have this return line provision, could I use the 2nd, plugged up inlet as a return line? Or would that create a fuel "short circuit" and bleed off fuel meant for the bowl?

DGV-connections.jpg

I also see that the bowl vent is sealed off on mine. So I can drill and NPT tap this, attach a fitting and send the line to the charcoal canister?

I'm doing all of this because the Chinese fake Weber I bought perpetually stunk of gas, had random weeping gas leaks and I want to do it the right way this time. Also concerned about vapor lock and drivability issues. I just want this thing vented and sealed 100%.

BTW, this is a great, very thorough article on Weber 32/36 I found:

http://datsun1200.com/modules/mediaw.../36_Carburetorhttp://datsun1200.com/modules/mediaw.../36_Carburetor

[pennyman1]

Don't use the opposite fitting for the return, it will send all the fuel to the tank. Don't need the bowl vent either, unless you want the emissions look. Besides, if you look at the top of the carb, the bowl is vented to the air through the hole in front of the carb throat between the bores.