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Help! Head gasket gone wrong
Hey all new to the forum. Starting to work out problems on my new rig. First things first.
I just got back to Vt. from OR, with my new Mighty Max and the head gasket that I put on 4000 miles ago has blown. The shop who was helping me put the previous head gasket in sold me a metal gasket (can't remember the brand) and told me to put permatex gasket sealer on it, (this isn't what worked on my vw) but I listened. I used new bolts and torqued them in sequence working out from the middle to 50 ft lbs and then 93 ft lbs (this was on the shops advice.)
Any Ideas on what to do differently this time to make it stick?. I would love to try something different. Clean and dry is what I've always done with my VW diesel. How about the torque steps are those the right numbers? Also what gaskets do you all have luck with and where to find them and the bolts.
Thanks in advance
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Sophomore
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Ouch! sorry for your troubles. I have never used a metal gasket, so I don't know if it needs the gasket sealer or not. I've always used the manufacturer's suggested head gasket and have never had an issue. No matter what type of gasket you use, 4000 miles to a blown head gasket indicates something definitely went wrong. Is your engine turbo'ed? Higher than normal compression? Metal head gaskets are commonly used for high performance, high compression engines. If you still have the gasket you will probably find the brand name on it. I would check the manufacturer's website for installation instructions.
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It is a turbo, but just stock I haven't done any mods to try to squeeze power out of it. I'm going to call the dealership in town today and see what they suggest. Thanks
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I called the mitsubishi and dodge dealers today. I didn't get very helpful parts people but they both said that they don't have a listing for a vehicle this old. Any chance you have a part #. How about the head bolts can I re-use those or get new ones?
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Associates Degree
Array
Rock Auto sells gaskets and bolts. If it were me I would get new bolts, even if they are not torque to yield. Run a bottoming tap down all the holes and then use brake cleaner and compressed air to clean them out really well. Any oil or dirt in there can give you a false torque. Clean any packaging oil off the bolts as well. Clean and dry is best.
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