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Thread: Relocating the Battery

  1. #1

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    Relocating the Battery

    So far the task seems pretty simple and straight forward, but it's that level of thinking that has gotten me in trouble before.

    Here is what I'm currently working with:

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    The battery currently sits in the driver's front, but I would like to move it to the passenger's rear (don't get too excited). I guess what I'm looking for is feedback on thoughts of how to set up the battery tray as well as what gauge wire and how to run the wire.

    F.Y.I. - There are a couple of brackets missing that hold up the braking fluid lines. I just took those off to paint them. Along with some other parts such as the windshield wiper fluid "squirter". lol But otherwise that's what I'm working with.

  2. #2

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    I don't have any suggestions for the battery tray or where to run the wire, but I do have a battery relocation wire from a mid '80s e30 BMW. I don't know what gauge it is, but it's what they used to run from the engine compartment to the trunk, so it should be plenty stout and long enough.

    Try your local welding shop. Get some welding ground wire. Comes in all sizes and is super flexible. It will handle and amp you need. The local battery shop can stick the ends on you need.
    Last edited by camoit; 01-09-2013 at 07:52 PM. Reason: rule 1 rule

  3. #3


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    Easy enough just find a tray from a full size Ford or Chevy pick up as they are removable and mount it in this area.

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    as for feed wires just go to home depot and get some 4 gauge wire and the compression ends, then go to an car audio store and get a power distribution block and tie the 4 gauge into the original battery cable.

  4. #4



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    The ram 50 diesels mounted the battery behind the front lower panel on the right side of the bed. For wire you could use welders cables, or get a battery relocation kit from Summit.
    Pennyman1
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    Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980

  5. #5



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    Sorry Bro, but you're not allowed to sell anything on the site unless you're a Donator. Just a heads up.
    Last edited by camoit; 01-09-2013 at 07:54 PM.

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  6. #6



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    No harm, no foul. Everyone dent's the car sooner or later. If we didn't, then we would all be driving new cars.

  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by Lem Forder View Post
    I don't have any suggestions for the battery tray or where to run the wire, but I do have a battery relocation wire from a mid '80s e30 BMW. I don't know what gauge it is, but it's what they used to run from the engine compartment to the trunk, so it should be plenty stout and long enough.

    Try your local welding shop. Get some welding ground wire. Comes in all sizes and is super flexible. It will handle and amp you need. The local battery shop can stick the ends on you need.
    Whoa, sorry. Just trying to help out. I figured since I wasn't listing in the for sale section, it wouldn't be a problem. I'll be more careful in the future.

  8. #8

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    Good info guys. Sounds like my original thought about it being a pretty easy, straight forward task was on the money. I'm just excited because with the battery out of the way, I can start putting together the cold air intake that is going to go where the battery is now.

  9. #9

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    Most any Auto Battery store can help you on the leads (there's one on Union in Seattle!). Scrounging a diesel plate wouldn't hurt, but fabricating one shouldn't be that tough if you have a bending brake, or access to one. Send me what you need for dimensions, mounting legs, and desired material, I'll bend you one...and send it up there. If you can do a plan via Sketchup or similar file, would be easier for me (mock it up to the fender with cardboard, the do it in Sketchup). I can weld mild steel, but not stainless (or aluminum). Hell, I can make it in Perspex (plexiglass, or even Polycarbonate) if you want to pay materials!!

    The heavier the gauge on battery/starter leads, the better, IMHO.

    Any Auto Stereo store should be able to make the new leads, as well. They will be prettier, and carry a heavier price tag.

    That engine compartment is getting VERY clean! Nice work!

    Do you still want/need those bumper caps? Can still get em up to you if needed... I bought the Ford Ranger for a DD, I have the range now. Would have to be a Sunday, though.
    Last edited by Acuta73; 01-10-2013 at 02:28 PM.

  10. #10



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    Quote Originally Posted by Lem Forder View Post
    Whoa, sorry. Just trying to help out. I figured since I wasn't listing in the for sale section, it wouldn't be a problem. I'll be more careful in the future.
    No problem. Just make a small donation and you'll be fine.

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  11. #11



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    Quote Originally Posted by Lem Forder View Post
    Whoa, sorry. Just trying to help out. I figured since I wasn't listing in the for sale section, it wouldn't be a problem. I'll be more careful in the future.



    Sorry man. I did not make the rule, They guys that started this board 3 boards ago came up with it. Thats why I said "No harm, no foul. Everyone dent's the car sooner or later. If we didn't, then we would all be driving new cars."
    Your not the first and won't be the last. Trust me when I say we see it happen with new guys all the time. Look in here. But we try to be fair about things. Heck we have all dented the car at some point. It's the guys that come on here and drive it into tree that go away quickly. You will find these guys are like quite protective about there board and keeping it on the net. I guess you can say there like a German Shepard.

    But for a battery box replacement look here. there nice and you can weld them on. I think it will fit under the hood, not sure so it's best to measure first. http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/...teryBoxes.html
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  12. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by Acuta73 View Post
    Most any Auto Battery store can help you on the leads (there's one on Union in Seattle!). Scrounging a diesel plate wouldn't hurt, but fabricating one shouldn't be that tough if you have a bending brake, or access to one. Send me what you need for dimensions, mounting legs, and desired material, I'll bend you one...and send it up there. If you can do a plan via Sketchup or similar file, would be easier for me (mock it up to the fender with cardboard, the do it in Sketchup). I can weld mild steel, but not stainless (or aluminum). Hell, I can make it in Perspex (plexiglass, or even Polycarbonate) if you want to pay materials!!

    The heavier the gauge on battery/starter leads, the better, IMHO.

    Any Auto Stereo store should be able to make the new leads, as well. They will be prettier, and carry a heavier price tag.

    That engine compartment is getting VERY clean! Nice work!

    Do you still want/need those bumper caps? Can still get em up to you if needed... I bought the Ford Ranger for a DD, I have the range now. Would have to be a Sunday, though.

    Thank you! Taking it one step at a time, and doing what I can considering this is my commuter truck, and I live in appartments so tearing into a project isn't exactly the easiest task. I think we have a lot to talk about then my friend cause the biggest thing that has been holding me back lately on some of my work is not having access to welding equipment and stuff like that. So if you'd want to help me with that stuff, I'd be more than happy to pay and provide any matterials we need! And yes I do still need those bumper caps. I'll give you a call on Sunday if I can catch a free moment before work. Otherwise, I will be in touch very soon.

  13. #13



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    If you got a drill you can cut and drill a flatt bar and use it to clamp the battery down with 2 if the long J hooks.
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  14. #14

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    I've done alot of relocates on cars not trucks. You can run a good 0 or 2 ga amp wire and it'll work fine too. But audio wire may be more expensive than an advance auto parts set of cheapo jumper cables. It's the positive you have to move. Ground can be transferred with battery and bolted to the body and block on the opposite side.

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