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Thread: Vacuum Diagram

  1. #26

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    Quote Originally Posted by camoit View Post
    If there black then it's just dumping fuel in there. The float may be sunk or there can be somthing in the needle and seat. When it's running do you see fuel just dribbling in through the carb? Somthing is causing it to dump in raw fuel.
    I will have to check it tomorrow to see if I see that. Where is this float/needle you are talking about? I don't know much about carburetors.

    Thanks again! :-)

  2. #27



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    It's inside the carb
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  3. #28

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    I looked inside the carb and the right flap moves and the one on the left doesn't appear to move. I took a flat head screw driver and pressed on it and the engine rev up and fuel trickled out of the tiny spout. (Left butterfly) Other than that, nothing appears to happen on that side.

  4. #29



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    Thats normal. It's the secondary and is vacuum operated. Have you looked in the manual section to see if there is somthing in the book that may help you.

    Look for Haynes Manual. It covers your MM truck. It has a flow chart in the trouble shooting section.


    Manuals and Other Source Info> Over 216 Manuals> haynes_Pickups_and_Monteros-1983-1993.zip
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  5. #30

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    Camoit,

    I got one and yes I looked through it. Just not sure where to start, there is so much. I took it to the parts store and this customer looked at it. He tends to think the head gasket is blown. Reason: he stepped on gas pedal and there was moisture/water on my hand as I held it to the tail pipe. I just hate to go through changing it, if that really isn't the problem. Like I said, I had a 4 cylinder Civic with a blown head gasket and the plugs were wet. These are drawn, black, with carbon deposits on it. I may just end up taking it to a shop and pay for their Diagnostic Testing.

  6. #31



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    Since you filled up the radiator. Has the water level gone down at all? My truck would blow the head gasket and use about 1/2 quart of water and not have wet plugs. When it is running the compression would keep the water from getting into the cylinder. But after it was shut off and cooled down the pressure in the radiator system would push the water into the cylinder.
    You need to run a compression test and CLT to see what it is doing. We started to talk about a blown head gasket back in post 6.

    All anybody can do is to help guide you to figure out the problem. You must have some mechanical skills and knowledge to get to the root of the problems. If you think somthing is over your skill level we always recommend taking it to someone that can diagnose and repair the problem. We have no way of showing you just what needs to be done or how to do it. We are 1682 miles apart with no way of herring, seeing, or smelling what it is doing.
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  7. #32

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    I know and you are correct. I can tear the engine if needed. Just trying to check every option before that. I will be taking the carburetor off and have it looked at to make sure it is ok. I will let you know afterwards what I find. Thanks again for ALL the help.

    Oh, and I don't think I have added any water to this truck since I got it. Coolant level appears to be fine.

  8. #33



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    if it's not using water then the gasket should be ok. If you pull the valve cover. Look at the air injector valves if it has them. They can cause major problems. They make a jet valve elimination kit for these trucks. It's only like 40 bucks and worth the price.
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  9. #34

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    Camoit,

    I finally got a compression tool and checked compression on the cylinders. Hopefully I did it right. I hooked it up and turn engine over and the readings I got are below.

    1st Cylinder: 60psi
    2nd Cylinder: maybe around 20
    3rd Cylinder: maybe around 20
    4th Cylinder: maybe less than 20

    After letting the key go, they pressure immediately went to zero.

    What does this mean?

  10. #35

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    I probably have about the same mechanic skills as you Blessed, but I'm going to go out on a limb and say those compression numbers don't look right.

  11. #36

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    Quote Originally Posted by dondelusion View Post
    I probably have about the same mechanic skills as you Blessed, but I'm going to go out on a limb and say those compression numbers don't look right.
    Thanks for the info. I have sold the truck. I just had too many project going on and needed the money. Thanks everyone for all the help.

  12. #37

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    me to man did you find out anything on this some told me its the erg vavle cost over 190 hundreds

  13. #38



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    This is a very old thread doughboy, almost 2 years ago. Might not get answered for you.
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  14. #39

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    Quote Originally Posted by doughboy940 View Post
    me to man did you find out anything on this some told me its the erg vavle cost over 190 hundreds
    Hello, didn't get truck fixed. Was told several times that I possibly had a blown head gasket. I just decided to sell it to a guy and he bought it and drove it away... wow

  15. #40

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    Which engine do you have: 2.0 or 2.6? Smoke coming out of the tail pipe, according to the tech manual MAYBE due to an EGR failure and caused by something as simple as a PVC valve being stuck. I have the Dodge Shop Manual for an 87 D-50. Will post vac diagrams and troubleshooting steps once I know which engine you have.

  16. #41




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    As he pointed out, he sold the truck. The moisture he got from the exhaust most likely was normal water laying in the muffler that came out while the truck was driven a short distance. THe low compression readings where most likely due to a cold motor or a leaking tester
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  17. #42

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    I am also a newbie with an 89 Power Ram 50. I am going to install Weber and need to know what parts are what on the Vacuum system. I need to leave the vapor canister, vacuum advance and brake booster. What all needs to be left for this?

  18. #43

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    Hi and welcome to mightyram. The only vacuum circuit you need to keep connected is the vacuum advance for the distributor. The brake booster is running straight off the manifold, the crankcase ventilation is the same. There is a vacuum switch under the thermostat end of the intake manifold. It has no 'vacuum' inside of it so you can either just disconnect the hoses or physically remove the vacuum switch and fit a threaded block off bung in it to tidy it up. You will need to block off the coolant line from the barb at the heater hose as the Weber has an electric choke and the coolant feed is redundant. Check the threads and pics for references.
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