1987 mitsubishi wagon

just picked her up, 12 valve 6 bolt 4g64. i think it's an LS model i wish i could find out how many were imported because this is the only "wagon" i have seen most were the "van"...
already is set up for shore power so that's one less thing i need to do, i will redo the gasket on it though.

it supposedly knocks, so i will be happy if that's an excuse for a 16v head and Frankenstein rods and new pistons

on to the nasty, rusty, rare, mitsu porn


no that's not how the seats supposed to be it just makes dealing with the battery easy






crunch?

wheels i can't find anything on the interwebz about.... i only found one other set in Finland and he had no details



first problem already diagnosed, the battery is on a trickle charger since it was sitting at 11.2volts

thats pretty cool. ive never seen one of these before. good luck with it and i cant wait to see what you end up doing with it.

There all over the place. It should be pretty easy to find parts for it. There was 2 of them in my yard the other day. The Vietnamese love them.

it seems CA is the only place they sold well. here even the toyota is seldom seen.
i found a CA registration from 1989 inside the service manual so my assumption is this one is from CA. and i decoded the VIN, it's not a LS just a optioned up base model

it seems most of the parts interchange with some other mitsu, toyota or isuzu, i may have to source some things from canada(JDM delia)

didn't do much today other than inspect the plugs(very bad) and think about the plan, i'm thinking i want to stay with a 12v/8v because of the cruise control. but there is more then enough room for a turbo so i just need to run some tests and get it started to see if/how i want to rebuild it.
inside i'm going a side folding bed, 110v inverter, my boston g5, SE60's, kenwood KDC-X993 and an aux battery. plus whatever i feel like belongs, the plan is a camper style van that can double as a cargo van.


and since there's little info on the internet. it uses a group 51 battery. and this example came with 205/75r14 tires from the factory compared to tire racks claimed 205/70r14

I think there was a turbo van either on the first website, or maybe hotrodcoffeeshop. Or was it a na 4g63?

I have seen a few Aussies do DOHC Turbo set ups and one Guy over on zerog was doing a DOHC head on a US model. I tried searching on the old site and didn't find anything ... new plugs, positive terminal and gas and bang it started... it has to be close to WOT to start, idles at 1500 in park. the noise sounds to fast to be just 1 rod knocking or a bad lifter. I'm thinking it may be something else, hard to tell with the clutch fan making all it's own noise. Here's a shatty video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A-hyw...e_gdata_player

Which old site were you talking about? The one that did the swap was Aussie. Lol.

mightyram50 known as archives, there's more stuff on youtube about swapped vans then any if the forums, maybe because there's no 2wd gas van/l300/express forum... aussies are crazy when it comes to vans i saw one express on youtube with a chevy v8 running in the 9's.

any guesses on the noise? with screwdriver as a stethoscope method the valve cover, head and upper block all sounded the same to me... another thing i noticed was the alternator pulley was skin burning hot after running for less then a minute but none of the other pulleys were

Mightyd50.com had a lot more info on swaps. Had enough build breads that I put my first motor in on strictly looking at the threads. No questions needed as none were gonna be answered. Lol. Started the swap when the virus first hit that board. That could have been where I saw that swap. :s

i had totally forgot about mightyd50, i recall lurking on there but my memory is bad..

on a side note, this IE on xbox 360 works decent, a little slower then my droid.. i think the van needs an oil cooled xbox 360 and a 19" tv... i really need to get a custom built alternator....

It sounds like an exhaust on the video. Or some other horrid thing.

My 1991 D-50 did the exact same thing when I had mistaken a collapsed old lifer as one of my good ones when I was putting new (well, from a different truck) lifters in, I would check that first and see if that is your issue, I mean mine was way hardcore, just like that, I could hear it over the radio at full blast, I bet the only thing pushing the valve open was the rocker arm because the lifter had crunched so bad. Easy fix takes about 1 1/2 hours from start to finish, because you have to remove alot of intake plumbing to take the valve cover off. Grab a haynes book for it or at least for the ram 50 / mighty max and it will have a procedure to check the lifters. If the lifters are good I would start looking at the bottom end on the engine. Hopefully it doesn't end up like this!!

thanks for the thoughts, i think i will check for a exhaust leak... i need to drain the oil and check for anything bad. valve cover doesn't look fun to pull off, it seems like half the wiring harness is on top of the valve cover. i think i have a cymler manual for "80's mitsubishis" but doesn't have the van or wagon in it, but the 87 galant had the same motor...

Actually in my truck the wiring harness was just wire tied together across the valve cover and it was actually really easy to move all of it, the only things i had to take off was the idle speed solenoid and the distributor harness. Mighty Maxes actually didn't run fuel injection until 1990.

that's reileving to know.. i just finished research on the lifters, they are the same as ones from a 1.8l 1g DSM which is pretty common around here... it's 43 degrees out right now still i think i will go look for an exhaust leak

manifold is cracked right where the center runners(?) meet and the gasket at the conection to the downpipe(?) is shot, i couldn't tell if it was also leaking where it meets the head...
i decided to take it for a drive around the block and the speedo doesn't work(dammit), it feels quicker then a air cooled VW but slower then i think it should be but then again it's an automatic and all the 4g64's and g63b's i've driven weighed less and were manual..... i think the alternator may just be so getting hot becuase it's trying so hard to charge that bad battery...
oil will be drained and examined tomorrow after i stick my ear up to the intake and exhaust to see if i can hear the valvetrain making noise

The cracked manifold will give you that ticking sound - you need to fix the exhaust manifold before you replace lifters, although it wouldn't hurt. You could also pull the lifters and clean them in diesel fuel or charcoal lighter fluid if they are not shot.

alright, drained and changed the oil, nothing in it... put my ear over the oil fill hole, nothing... pulled off the upper timing belt cover to see if the tensioner was causing it, nope... then rut ro shaggy, the alternator starts grinding. i know bad alternator bearings can cause knocking.. i started poking around with a broom stick(which i learned is way better then a screwdriver) and i hear the knock/tick/evil noise equally in the block, head and exhaust manifold, then alot of LOUD noise when on the alternator.

is it possible that it's just the alternator causing the knock? it's only putting out 13.6v at idle and not enough amps to keep the motor going without the jump box... anyways tomorrow after i make sure i can get a replacement belt i will be cutting the belt, best case i figured it out worst case i wasted 10 minutes and what would be a spare belt

if i can clean my drain pan and get some of those ramps i might drop the oil pan to check for play. something makes me think if it was a lifter i would be able to hear it through the oil fill hole so i think it has to be bottom end, piston-head contact, piston slap(never seen it on a 4 stroke or this rhythmic but the internet said it's happens) or not part of the engine

also the downpipe is leaking and rattles. so that and the manifold's not making it easy to stick with the "diagnose first buy parts second" strategy


BTW the noise speeds up with the motor

Cheap automotive stethoscope. Isolates noise better so yer not being pounded by 10 other noisy things.

Just an idea. Is how I found exactly WHICH lash adjuster was sticking, and on what side. Very nice and easy.

If it's an automatic then it could be a flex plate. They can sound just like a rod. But it's at the rear of the engine. Let it run and go under.

i don't think it's the flex plate because the noise doesn't change when it's in gear.
cut the alternator belt, sadly wasn't the cause of the knocking. i tried using a medical stethoscope but the motor died(probally fuel related, i only put about a gallon in it) in the middle of poking around, but the noise was constant over the valve cover... ran a compression test:
1: 140
2: 140
3: 130
4: 135
that chilton(not cymler like i thought earlier) is pretty useless when it comes to specs other than torque specs. i assume they are all within spec of each other but these numbers are higher then what i've seen other people posting, just healthy or carbon build up?

I haven't made much progress because it was too cold for me to work on without my fingers freezing and i was distracted by more important investments(bang!)...anyways i bought a palm setup with .MMCD, works great on the 91 MM but with this 87 ecu it cannot communicate.....
Finally pulled the valve cover.... some of the rockers have a lot more play then others, all of them except the ones the cam has pressure on are at least a little loose. I will be looking for used hlas locally

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1Hby...e_gdata_player

That would be the lifters that were mentioned. The ends of the lifters tend to wear off so that's where you get the gap.

Nice turbo old van that is i really like old version vans because so strong body of that turbo that is which is show us that all the other parts are damaged but body is left...Nice chassis engine...

yes i'm quite slow due to lazieness, distractions and because of the political climate "investments".....





intake far timing belt right....
all 4 exhaust and the #4 intake were all collapsed