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Thread: Vapor Lock problem

  1. #1

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    1984 Dodge Power Ram 50
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    Exclamation Vapor Lock problem

    When my engine gets hot, so does my fuel pump... Then my truck glugs, glugs, then glugs some more. Lack of power and then more glug. I have to let off, wait a few seconds then go. Get to where I am going then shut it off and let it cool down a little bit.

    Is there any way to make my mechanical fuel pump cool down? Stay cool? Or do I have to go electric fuel pump somewhere close to the gas tank away from heat? I'm stuck and broke at this point.. Need all the points I can get.


    And another question.. I'm getting 18 ish miles to the gallon. Around 170 miles my truck has the above problem, But she sometimes stalls. I put gas in her and she runs fine for X amount of miles(depending on gas can size) Which pretty much tells me I am out of gas, or close. Does an 84 ram 50 2.6 4x4 royal only have a 10 gallon tank? Or do I have more problems? Or less mpg ya think?

    I'll start with these questions and wait to ask more. Thanks guys for all the help!!

  2. #2


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    Calgary, Alberta, Canada
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    2 things to check before you spend money. First make sure the gas cap is working properly you might be vaccume locking the tank and the pump can't draw enough fuel till the tank draws in more air by backing off on the throttle for a few seconds. The other thing to check is make sure the return fuel line is unblocked, returning fuel will go back to the tank and cool down the fuel pump and carb so the hot unused fuel doesn't sit in the carb.

  3. #3

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    If those don't work, then what? My dad thinks my fuel is heating up and bubbling and causing no power. How much work and money would electric be? my truck barely runs once it gets warm.

  4. #4

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    Just out of curiosity, have you messed with your ignition at all, mainly the ballast resistor on your coil?
    1987 2WD Mitsubishi Mighty (R.I.P)
    1984 4WD Toyota Pickup (Sold 10/12)(Rolled and Totaled 3/24/13)
    1987 4WD Power Ram 50 Custom (Scrapped)
    1991 2WD Ram 50 (Scrapped)
    1992 Ford F250 7.3 (sold)
    1999 GMC Yukon (DD)
    1988 Ram 50(project)



  5. #5

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    I have replaced my wires, cap, rotor, plugs, alternator and everything else besides my coil itself. still using stock. I"m using a ballist(same size and everything) off a mazda b2600i. the ballist was brand new on my brothers old truck so I took when I got mine running. Could that be my problem?

  6. #6

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    The mazda I mentioned was an 86 if it means anything

  7. #7

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    I changed the ballast on my 87 one time and the coil would get really hot and quit working, when your truck dies feel the coil to see if it is hot, if so that is more than likely your problem, and when I mean hot, it is pretty damn hot, it will get warm with normal operation
    1987 2WD Mitsubishi Mighty (R.I.P)
    1984 4WD Toyota Pickup (Sold 10/12)(Rolled and Totaled 3/24/13)
    1987 4WD Power Ram 50 Custom (Scrapped)
    1991 2WD Ram 50 (Scrapped)
    1992 Ford F250 7.3 (sold)
    1999 GMC Yukon (DD)
    1988 Ram 50(project)



  8. #8




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    The resistance of the ballast resistor needs to match the coil - the wrong resistance will overvoltage the coil and cause it to either overheat or not put out the right voltage depending on the mismatch. If you have the coil from the Mazda, put it on with the matching resistor to see if it solves the problem.
    Pennyman1
    The best Dodge that Dodge never made
    Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980

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