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a pic with the exhaust manifold. u can see the far back stud is missing. apparently one of the guys before me had broke it but with some soaking down with PB blaster everything came apart nicely.
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number 1&2 caked in carbon
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number 3&4 also caked in carbon
more pics to come. carburetor and intake next.
question for the motor heads. should i leave the head intact or disassemble it when i take it in to be tested?
savana on factory 17s.jpgOriginally Posted by dazednconfused
just a little proof the ones that are saying no way.
heres todays progress on the intake and some indexing photos.
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starting to finally get somwhere. got the head, intake, valve cover, and water neck with new thermostat. work on the rest tomorrow. just gotta fight the rain.
well rain stayed away after early morning shower. not much more to do. got the vacuum lines hooked back up, carb, and exhaust manifaold back on. put the timing cover back on after i turned the motor 6 revs by hand. new NGK plugs. just as everything was going good... i was torquing the 4th bolt on the crank pulley... SNAP. darn it you son of a dog. i was so mad cause that just put another delay. well i got the threads backed out without any extra tool but screwdriver and pair of pliers with a little aggravated patience. tomorrow after work gonna go get new grade 8 m8x1.25 bolts for all four. may have to fab the bolts a little if i cant find the right length.
dad said run with just 3 it'll be fine. i really don't know if that's true plus im trying not to do halfassed work. figure cant go wrong with grade 8.
only got pulleys, belt, radiator, and a change of fluids. im so ready to have my truck back on the road instead of sitting in moms drive way. fast food just isnt cutting it with little brantley due in march. gonna have to get rid of the buckets and get a bench. im looking at putting a back bench from a 98 jeep cherokee laredo. just need to get measurements. seems good, looks like it would fit, and they fold all the way forward. hopefully a car seat will fit without affecting shifting.
ok got it back together. having trouble getting it started. messing with the distributor now.
Nice Truck!! You are making a lot of progress. Congrats!
Little update got it running again. The distributor was a tooth off. Still the chug prob at 40 though. Think it's carb.
Here's a pic of the plasti dip wheels.
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Got some Alpena dual strobz. Any ideas on where to put them. I already have strobes in the turn signals and I don't want these sticking out like sore thumbs.
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Here's what they look like.(stock photo) Haven't pull them out of package yet.
Had some bad luck today. On my way to work I blew my head gasket. Guess I should of took it to the machine shop and had it true'd. Thankfully I had bought a head gasket, then later bought the whole kit. So I had an extra laying around. now just have to tear it down and redo. But what would of caused it to blow another head gasket?
if you changed the head gasket without having the head checked for flatness or shaving the head, it will blow again. On the g54b the bolts are torque to yield, ie one use - can't remember if the g63b is the same.
Pennyman1
The best Dodge that Dodge never made
Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980
Yes it's the same but no I didn't have it shaved. Thought I could save 100 bucks. Guess not. This time I will do it right.
The G63B original head bolts are not one use only. If you update them and have replaced them with later versions of head bolts, then you probably have the one time use ones.
My G63B has been using the original head bolts for the entire life of the truck, approx. 27 years with no issues in the past 20 years with head gaskets. I have only blown one gasket on the truck, but have received 3 inferior casting cracks which caused head to be replaced. Never have I replaced the head bolts. They use the Allen Head designed bolt and the originals can be used over. It helps to use the same bolt for the same hole each time, just like internal engine parts.
A manual might suggest replacing them which is normal for manuals to say. These one time only bolts have seemed to appear from performance parts builders. I just spoke to a Fastener company a couple days ago about this same issue and they are actually not happy about the one time use bolts. They explained the older bolts used in vehicles did not stretch and get tweaked like they do today. The company could of sold me the bolts, because that's what I went for to get. They said if yours work fine, there is no need to replace unless they specify on packaging to only use once.
AN accurate torque wrench is a must and I always go for that higher setting. For example 85 to 95lbs, I go to about 92-93. I drive it for a bit and get that engine all warmed and check the torque again. Then check it again in about 500 or less miles. These damn trucks are so finicky with them head gaskets, a little more torque won't kill them.
Last edited by BradMph; 06-23-2013 at 08:53 PM.
Thanks for the tip. I am still using o.e. head bolts. Found that tip on a different thread somewhere in here. I gotta check around at the machine shops to see if I can get a better deal than diamond motors in Monticello Indiana.
Well apparently the guy at diamond engines that spoke with the first time didn't know what he was talking about. He wanted $115 to shave the head. I called again today and found out that it is only $60 to have it done will be taking it in this Friday.
Nice, I did the same thing, LED trailer/truck lights into the front turn signal housing.
They work so much better. If anyone knows where to order headbolts let me know. Blew the gasket again. Thinking bolts bottomed out.
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