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Thread: Installed new performance head! But...

  1. #1

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    Installed new performance head! But...

    Soon as I fired it up, I notice steam from the pipe...yup. Hrmmm....brand-spankin new head and gaskets, torque checked, then rechecked, then rechecked again...

    Figured it might just be condensation, so I gave it about 10 minutes to warm up. Noticed the lash adjusters just didn't want to oil (loud longer than I expected), odd. Pulled the dipstick to look at the oil. Sure as s**t, creamy grey foam!

    WTF happened? I checked EVERYTHING 65 times before I committed anything, now this?

    Cracked block somewhere? I did notice a tiny bit of oil in the antifreeze when I drained it before tearing everything down, just assumed it was the head gasket I knew was on its way, if not completely dead. Oil was dirty, but sure as hell not mixed with water/ethylene glycol!

    Not so much as looking for "the answer", but anyone have any ideas?? Where do I start, now? Could go as extreme as stripping it to the short block, jacking it up, pulling the pan, then give the engine a double rotation back to TDC...just to visually check the block. Bore tolerances were fine (even 78.8mm).




    Edit:

    Never did get the head to final torque @75ft/lbs hot. Only got to 69ft/lbs cold. Should I just do final torque and pray?

  2. #2



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    when you pulled the head did you drain the antifreeze???? if not it just poured into the cylinders and oil???
    Real Trucks dont need spark plugs,,,,,,black smoke dont mean it broke.....
    2000 f250 Super duty crew 4x4 7.3 turbo diesel
    1989 chrysler conquest. 2.6 turbo and other goodies
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    1987 dodge raider with a 2.3 turbo diesel swap. in good hands with Kane.

  3. #3

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    Yes, fluids were all drained. However, having slept on it, I'm wondering if maybe I had 2 things going on:

    1. Water managed to drain into the pan and I didn't notice. Very possible working "in frame" (especially for me)

    2. Truck sat for 2 days, had a cold night, maybe just normal condensation blowing out the tailpipe (didn't really SMELL like antifreeze, but...)

    Got work starting tonight, no time to work on it. Back Saturday morning, Easter Sunday, I think Monday I go buy 2 cases of cheap oil. Then drain the oil that's in it, refill with cheap, run it for a few, do final torque, drain, refill. If it's not a leak, that should fix things up. If it IS a leak? I'll figure it out fast enough.

  4. #4


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    That's what I would have recomended. Change fluids. Did you prime the oil pump prior to engine start? There are also other ways for water to mix with oil. You should also retorque the head to your higher setting. Then when hot, double check the torque.

  5. #5

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    I had a similar problem when I rebuilt my engine, my head gasket had shifted just a touch when i placed the new head on. Speaking of which now that I have hit the 500 mile break in again i need to recheck my torque on everything too

  6. #6

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    After much thinking, here's my take:

    Was in a hurry to get the timing cover on, was late on day 2 of 2 days I had to work on it. I got in a hurry, this much I know for certain. I'm thinking that when I was reinstalling the timing cover, I got the gasket screwed up for the water pump. It was wanting to be a pain in the ass anyway, so I'm REALLY thinking that is what happened. It would also explain how so much water could end up in the pan in such a short period of time.

    Though, after reading Ram50man's post, that could possibly be a factor, as well. Pretty sure it's not, but the head is coming off again anyway, so I'll see.

    Thanks for the responses, guys!

    Edit:

    Just saw your location, Ram50man. Will lay on the air horn as I drive by JBLM next week!

  7. #7


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    Good luck with that. I hole it was something small. Do ou have a straight edge? You can use it to check the block for warp while it's off.

  8. #8

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    Quote Originally Posted by Acuta73 View Post
    After much thinking, here's my take:

    Was in a hurry to get the timing cover on, was late on day 2 of 2 days I had to work on it. I got in a hurry, this much I know for certain. I'm thinking that when I was reinstalling the timing cover, I got the gasket screwed up for the water pump. It was wanting to be a pain in the ass anyway, so I'm REALLY thinking that is what happened. It would also explain how so much water could end up in the pan in such a short period of time.

    Though, after reading Ram50man's post, that could possibly be a factor, as well. Pretty sure it's not, but the head is coming off again anyway, so I'll see.

    Thanks for the responses, guys!

    Edit:

    Just saw your location, Ram50man. Will lay on the air horn as I drive by JBLM next week!
    If you do, I will actually hear it, cause i live in the brand new houses on the base, right up against I5... lol

  9. #9

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    Well, to be completely honest? I dunno what was wrong, but after tearing it apart and putting it back together again, all seems to be well and good! The water pump gasket I suspected? Was fine. The head gasket? Still new and perfect.

    I give up, but I'd rather be lucky than good ANY day!

    Be driving by between 0030 and 0100 Thursday morning (Wednesday night, if you prefer). Hope yer awake! LOL

  10. #10


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    I hope you replace the head gasket each time. Might be the reason if you reuse old hradgaskets.

  11. #11

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    Quote Originally Posted by 4doorciv View Post
    I hope you replace the head gasket each time. Might be the reason if you reuse old hradgaskets.
    Always! Sometime this summer I'll get an Altrom gasket and head studs on it.

  12. #12


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    With headstuds, you might be able to use the arp headstuds for the 89-91 six bolt dsms. Aka the 90 to mid 92 talon/eclipse/laser.

  13. #13



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    Those head studs will work on a 83-89 2.0 g63b - same kit for either
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