New To Mighty Ram 50 + Broken Timing Belt Saga
Greetings From MO!
Greetings From St. Louis!
I have spent much of the morning looking for info related to cylinder heads and interchanges for the same related to my 1995 2.4L Mitsubishi Mighty Max (Sport). I came across your site (as well as a few others) and concluded it is the coolest one. Thanks for being available.
Here is my MMM story. I bought it new in 1995 and it has approximately 125,000 on the clock. I've always been a little obsessive about my mechanical stuff so it looks much like it did when I purchased it. Almost no mods (custom dual exhaust), and with the exception of one visit to a genuine Mitsubishi dealership, has never been worked on by anyone other than myself. I haven't proved it yet, but that may have been one time too many.
Sometime around 2007, the water pump started leaking on my while I was coming back from picking up a motorcycle in Alabama. Made it home without incident but was pressed for time so I called the dealership and got what I considered to be a reasonable price for what I'm assuming was an OE water pump, timing and balance shaft belts and a rear main seal. No problems. Fast forward to January 2011 when I was on an interstate entrance ramp that had a pretty good incline. I had to put my foot into it way more than I usually do in order to not get clobbered by the terrorists coming up behind me and was doing just fine until I got onto a lengthy overpass with no place to pull off. That's when it happened! All the lights came on and the cool noise from the dual exhausts went away, replaced by the metallic clacking sound of what I believe was various valves colliding with rocker arms (and pistons perhaps) due to one or more of the timing belts giving way. Luckily I was able to hit the flashers and the guys behind were attentive enough to miss me while I coasted off the overpass and on to the side of the road. From there I called a flatbed and had it brought to my home where it has been sitting ever since.
To get to the point, here's a few of the things I'm wondering about:
1) I'm sure valves are shot but anybody have experience with piston damage when this happens?
2) Does the cylinder head typically get damaged along with valves (I expect guides are going to be kaput as well)?
3) Does anyone have an interchange as to other vehicles which use this exact head? I may need or want to visit a junkyard?
Bottom line, both wife and I are out of work right now so as much as I'd like to maximize this opportunity to increase fun, I have to be cheap.
Sorry to be so long winded. I love this truck and was shocked when this thing happened. It has been one of my favorite vehicles and I would have started on it much sooner if some family issues related to Alzheimer's hadn't taken up so much of my free time.
Any feedback on the numbers 1, 2 and 3 would be appreciated as would any other thoughts or suggestions you experienced people might have as well.
Thanks in advance,
Have you pulled the valve cover, and tried to turn it over "by hand" to see what moves, or does not move?
Sorry to here you had this happen. Welcome to the club.
Thanks for the reply and welcome. Nope, haven't pulled the valve cover yet. I'll do that and let you know what I see. Back when this happened, I did turn it over with the starter and I imagine the noise I heard sounded like a valve or valves hitting a piston. Engine was turning freely (too freely, no compression) with one "clink" sound during the rotation. Yea, not the smartest thing to do but I didn't know what I was up against sitting with wife on interstate in January. Besides, how much more damage could I do compared to what had already been done when whatever it was let go at 60 mph?
I wouldnt be so mad at the dealer just yet. You need a good inspection behind the timing cover to see what failed. This is the typical tale oh horror we see here. Usually its when someone just recently gets their truck and realizes what ride theyre in for. Timing belts last many miles but time takes its toll on the belt as well . If the seals werent replaced then oil leaks on the belt and makes it soft/ weak. Also the tensioners/ pulleys if not replaced can fail without warning after so many years.
Thanks for the input and understand what you're saying. Some seals were replaced but it's been too long ago for me to remember which ones and no way I've got the dealer work order handy. The dealership's I've worked at in the past would have chewed out the service writer for not selling tensioners & pulleys along with the belt but, like I said, it's been too long ago to remember.
Yep, I need to get into it and see what's going on because without evidence, it's just academic. I'd prefer not to work on it out in my driveway in the 100+ degree Missouri sun but…….
Until I get there from here, if you or anyone else would like to supply their thoughts on questions (1) (2) or (3) in my original entry, I'd be interested in hearing about it.
Thanks for the feedback,
Not sure if you lost motivation or already got it done, BUT if not, hope this helps:)
Cylinder Head Service inc in Birmingham, AL is cheapest (that does good work) I've found or ebay for head, (though more $ than CHS They even welded my diesel ram 50 in 1987! (when no one else would)! See if there is a "pull a part" yard nearby. They are CHEAP and usually have a d 50 or MMax, even here. google it for head and other usedparts. Got a bumper of a 90 ram 50 yesterday for 40.00!! (tax and all). Like everyone on here says, Rock Auto for new stuff... GL! Hope mine holds a little longer! Got belts and tensioner/idler in today..need seals still possibly...
Note the color of his name. He hasn't posted OR been on in 6 months, who knows if it was ever fixed.
Is there somewhere I can read up on the color "chart"..looks like a "lost interest" deal, and its probably STILL sitting waiting for a "round to it" part..like some of MY projects;!) hehe Thanks....
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