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Thread: My 1987 Ram 50 4x4

  1. #26

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    1991 Dodge Ram 50
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    How can I get a weber 32/36 to work with the auto, will the weber 38 work?

  2. #27



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    Good to hear another MM/D50 has been saved. When 'i had my 2.6 I ordered a new gasket and raised the engine up a little, boy what a bi#$% that was.
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  3. #28



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    I thought you cut the 50 in half like King Solomin.
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  4. #29

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    1991 Dodge Ram 50
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    That was the 2wd mighty max, this is a whole other beast, the one i cut was a 2.0 5 speed 2wd shortbox, this one is a 2.6 auto 4x4 longbox. I am still curious about the Weber though i dont want to spend $300 on a weber 38 to find out it wont work in a 2.6 auto.

  5. #30

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    fixed the ticking, found out two of the lifters were screwed up so i used them from my old head, nice and quiet now

  6. #31




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    the 38 weber will work on a 2.6 auto, but you have to fab a linkage for the kickdown cable for the auto tranny. Realize that you will not get the truck to run 100% without having a cam and a header with a performance exhaust - too much gas and jetting will only get you close.
    Pennyman1
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  7. #32

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    1991 Dodge Ram 50
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    so a 32/36 would be my best bet for a stock 2.6?

  8. #33

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    32/36 for a stock engine, yes. I THINK there's an auto linkage kit available from either Redline or Webercarbsdirect. Which I cannot remember, but I seem to recall seeing one somewhere...

    Keep in mind you may still need to have the carb flow tested and jetted for yer engine. The overall build quality of these "Weber" carbs we can get now isn't the greatest for fit and finish. Some polishing and fitting may be in order. Might, may, maybe. Just depends on luck of the draw.


    Edit: I dug through both sites and all I get is "Linkage modification needed for auto trans", I still swear I saw a kit somewhere, be damned if I can remember where, though.
    Last edited by Acuta73; 08-07-2012 at 03:23 AM.
    Some men have a mind like a steel trap, mine is more like a damp sponge...

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  9. #34

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    I think the throttle arm from the stock carb will fit on a weber, I'm not sure but if not I could more than likely make it work.

  10. #35




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    People have used the stock arm on the weber - just make sure you adjust the kickdown after the install for proper shifting. And there is a kickdown lever kit from the weber resellers redline and webercarbsdirect for the 32/36 you just have to ask about it - they sell the kits with the lever for the auto, so they should sell the lever separately.
    Pennyman1
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  11. #36

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    1991 Dodge Ram 50
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    Ok so after getting used to this truck here are some issues I have noticed.

    1. There is a noise when I put the truck into gear R,D,2,L, but not in P, or N. I think it is a broken tranny or engine mount.
    2. The LSD sucks big time, the only way I can get it to work when one wheel is off the ground is with the E brake, on the street it slips bad and makes noise like the lsd is worn ,although on wet roads or dirt it will spin both tires

    3. The auto tranny is pretty cool, with the exeption of when I am doing 60 or so, if i try to pass a car it will shift out of 4th to 3rd, but if I floor it it will go from 4th to 2nd, and almost over revv the engine.

    4. Here is my biggest issue, the stock G54B is gutless as hell, no low end torque to speak of and does horrible with the a/t climbing hills, and in the sand I cant get enough rpm in 2wd to get it to move, as my 22R toyota will rip the shit out of the sand and will climb hills no problem.

    I am happy with the truck, I like the way it looks and it rides pretty nice, its just the engine i cannot stand, as when I hit higher RPM it will start knocking, and it has almost no power (May be fixed with a 32/36 weber not the knocking though) The tranny is awesome, i like the fact I have room in the truck and it has nice amount of torque, and the LSD i think it just needs some work.

    So since I now have a full time job I may just be able to do what I want with the truck, I really want to know if I can swap a 4G63 into this truck project0g.com says that the A/T is a narrowblock behind a 2.6, but others I hear its a wide block. They say the km148 will stand the power of a 4g63t, and will transfer it nicely, but that the 5 speed manual km142? bearings will not stand up to the RPM and power of a 4g63t. I am curious as I am disappointed with the performance of the 2.6 (May just be carb related though)

    Thanks in advance for any input.

  12. #37



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    The tranny behind your 2.6 is a wideblock. You need a manual tranny from a 2.0l carbed mighty max(86-89)KM132
    Josh
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  13. #38




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    Drain the rear and put in fresh gear oil and a bottle of lsd additive from ford for a ford 9" rear, not a substitute. Reider racing swears by the stuff and puts it in any lsd axle. The carb will help with the performance, but advance the timing to 10 degrees btdc to get the best results. Force 10 has a shift kit for the auto tranny if its the aisin auto. The 2.6 auto aod trannies should be a wide bolt pattern, but it doesn't mean it is. Be sure the kickdown cable is adjusted according to the manual - yours may be missing some slack, causing the radical downshift at highway speeds.
    Pennyman1
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  14. #39

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    Ok i put the my Weber 32/36 on my truck, and used the original throttle arm and I hooked the kickdown up using a paperclip for now, but I will make a new holder for the kickdown. It is much more powerful and seems to be running very well with the weber, I just need to hook up an electric fuel pump, as when i shut the truck down, the residual fuel pressure causes the truck to slowly flood out. It shifts smooth all through third, but somthing about o/d makes it seem like it has less power than in 3rd, on flat land it will hold 60 mph with od off, but when i turn it on you can feel it slow down about 3-5mph. Pennyman1 I will try the ford rear end additive and see how much it helps,I used lucas rear end fluid that says it works great for lsd, but I just topped it off, i didn't actually change the fluid

  15. #40

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    from what I read it is that if you want a better gripping posi, or lsd, you use less additive in the limited slip, allowing the clutches to grip better, they say start with none and drive and add little by little until the rear end no longer chatters

  16. #41



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    Quote Originally Posted by abeemanator View Post
    from what I read it is that if you want a better gripping posi, or lsd, you use less additive in the limited slip, allowing the clutches to grip better, they say start with none and drive and add little by little until the rear end no longer chatters
    The compound additive is a friction modifier. It stops the oil from attacking the clutch surface. It also keeps the clutches from welding together from heat. The only way to make LSD stronger is to change the springs.
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  17. #42

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    I do have a KM132 in my back yard, problem is I dont want to convert my auto truck to a manual, and I also heard that the 4g63 was available both in wideblock form and narrowblock forms. I read on another forum that the bearings in a km132 will not handle the stress of a 4g63, and that the auto tranny is a much stronger transmission and won't be prone to failures and can stand up to something like 400-500 horsepower, athough I would be happy if I even got 140 horsepower vs the 80-90 my g54b outputs. I have heard people say that the km132 usually lasts 6-12 months of moderate/hard driving before the bearings fail, but I have never experienced it first hand.

  18. #43



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    I have had the same km132 behind my 4g63t for about 3-4 years with no problems. Wideblock 4g63(not g63b) are pretty rare from what ive seen
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  19. #44

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    IMHO, for a 4x4 I'd stay with the G54. Longer stroke and bigger bore = more torque. If ya got a DD, mebbe think about sending the short block in for bore and balance at the least over a 63 drop? Yeah, it ain't a racecar, but you could make it that way some day if you wanted to go injected/turbo route.

    Never had mine dyno'd, but I thought stock G54B Hp was 105? Could be wrong...

    Possible the LSD just needs a rebuild? Not that hard nor expensive as I recall. Other than yanking it outa the pumpkin, that is.
    Some men have a mind like a steel trap, mine is more like a damp sponge...

    86' Power Ram 50

  20. #45

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    Yeah I have heard that the g54b has more torque than the 4G63. But for now it is my DD until I get my Toyota back up and running, after that I might just pull the engine and do a ground up rebuild on it. I think the LSD needs a definite rebuild, when one wheel is off the ground it doesn't really try to give the other wheel any power. I would love to have EFI, and may also think about converting it.

  21. #46

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    Well, this is no good, I had my truck running about three months, at first it was a slight little ticking while in gear, but it got louder and louder, one of my rod bearings are shot and I drove to work with it, but I had to have it towed home, technically the truck still runs, but I dont know for how long, so I am going to take it to a local scrap yard and see how much I can get for it, they have absolutly no Longbox, 4x4, Automatics, they are all short box 4x4 or 2wd, so I should be able to get a decent amount for it, hopefully I get back what I paid for it, $425, but not including the $300 and all the time and labor it took to replace the head and timing chains. I will not part it out, if you live near Idaho and you want a 4x4 longbox automatic d50 with a limited slip, I will make you a killer deal, although the LSD is a little worn out.

  22. #47




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    Man you sure are tough on these trucks - thats 2 with blown engines. Although this one seemed to be doomed from the start - and I have a rebuilt short block that would be perfect for it, but you are too far away for it to matter.
    Pennyman1
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  23. #48

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    I know, this engine was run without the oil pump going long enough to seize the cam bearings!! Yeah, If I can find an engine cheap enough I would throw it in there, I bought the engine in my toyota for $200, the guy thought it had a rod knock but I have yet to notice.

  24. #49

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    My throttle linkage on mad max (87' 2.0 2wd automatic)

    Quote Originally Posted by abeemanator View Post
    I think the throttle arm from the stock carb will fit on a weber, I'm not sure but if not I could more than likely make it work.
    I used a key ring, ran it through the holes on the kick down and attached it to the throttle linkage before hooking the throttle. It works perfect as long as it's a medium to small key ring.

  25. #50

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    I got the stock Mikuni linkage to work on a 34DATA Weber. I had to tap a thread into the auxiliary throttle stop location, add a bracket to hook up a return spring and funnily enough, grind off a small riser on the manifold that was just fouling the linkage - but it looks and works like it was set up from factory. On this carb the linkage is hell close to the choke assembly too...
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