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Thread: number 4 plug

  1. #1

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    number 4 plug

    88 D50 with 2.6- number 4 plug is oh so tight. Any trix to getting that thing out without stripping the threads? Any way to reduce the heat back there so it doesn't happen again?

  2. #2



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    It sounds like someone cross threaded it in there. You can always use some anti seize on the threads of new one, if you get the old one out.
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  3. #3

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    Quote Originally Posted by camoit View Post
    It sounds like someone cross threaded it in there. You can always use some anti seize on the threads of new one, if you get the old one out.
    Plug is not cross threaded. # 4 cyl gets so hot it welds in there and takes plenty of hard cranking to get it out. Every time I've had it out it was put back in with anti seize. I had all 4 plugs out to do pressure check on cooling sys as it was slow leaking when I first got the truck. That was when I discovered the very hard removal of # 4. Had # 4 out again to replace it after it cracked it's ceramic and produced a miss. Came out hard. Thought maybe I should "rotate" them with fresh anti seize with each oil change but it was welded in again after only 500 miles. Each time all were re installed with anti seize. The engine has not overheated since I have had it but that number 4 cyl keeps tearing up the spark plugs. I don't really want to buy a new head without the air injection. Ideas?

  4. #4



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    Strange. But it sounds like there is a vacuum leek on that cylinder. That would explain the 1 hot cylinder. It could be the brake booster has a tear in the diaphragm. But the removal of the air injection is a good thing.. They can be nothing but problems. That might be the cause of the problem. Pick up the delete kit and toss it in there. Never hurts. That will rule that out.
    When the plug goes in does it go in easy?
    OH and look to see if the ground strap is on the block to cab. Just tossing that out there.
    Also if you take the head off you can confirm the water passage is not blocked. But replace the head bolts with new ones, or studs.
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  5. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by camoit View Post
    Strange. But it sounds like there is a vacuum leek on that cylinder. That would explain the 1 hot cylinder. It could be the brake booster has a tear in the diaphragm. But the removal of the air injection is a good thing.. They can be nothing but problems. That might be the cause of the problem. Pick up the delete kit and toss it in there. Never hurts. That will rule that out.
    When the plug goes in does it go in easy?
    OH and look to see if the ground strap is on the block to cab. Just tossing that out there.
    Also if you take the head off you can confirm the water passage is not blocked. But replace the head bolts with new ones, or studs.
    Plug goes in easy. I probably have a bad head gasket as it intermittently "ticks". Brand new brake booster. Ground is connected.
    Will need instructions on how to disable the air injection. Will it involve removing head as I need gasket, anyway?
    Searched "delete kit" but found no help. Does the delete kit disable the balance shaft, or air injection?
    How lumpy is the engine without the balance shaft? Is there a noticeable increase in power without balance shaft? If a tear down is involved...is it worth doing for that alone or should I wait for engine death to rebuild and incorporate at that time? This engine only has 130k on it.

  6. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by camoit View Post
    Strange. But it sounds like there is a vacuum leek on that cylinder. That would explain the 1 hot cylinder. It could be the brake booster has a tear in the diaphragm. But the removal of the air injection is a good thing.. They can be nothing but problems. That might be the cause of the problem. Pick up the delete kit and toss it in there. Never hurts. That will rule that out.
    When the plug goes in does it go in easy?
    OH and look to see if the ground strap is on the block to cab. Just tossing that out there.
    Also if you take the head off you can confirm the water passage is not blocked. But replace the head bolts with new ones, or studs.
    Just read thread on balance shaft removal and answered bs questions. Still looking for air injection info.

  7. #7



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    The head does not need to come off. See this thread. Post #40. He has a picture of the valve and the eliminator kit for it.
    http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...ort-identifier

    We are talking about just the air injection. Balance shaft is a hole other project. If the jet valve is bad it can sound from a tick to an exhaust leak at the carb. It can also blow a hoses off the carb if bad enough. If you do pull the head, replace the bolts with new ones. There 1 time use bolts.

    As for power we are limited on what we can get. You can have the cam reground, add a Webber carb and header. Thats the easiest way. If you tear down the engine then it's worth balancing the crank and removing the counter shaft. Gets you 5 more HP.
    LSRmike is the resident go fast guy.
    Last edited by camoit; 03-30-2012 at 09:24 PM.
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