"Mitsy" '86 Repairs, Renew, Rebuild, Replace

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Originally Posted by pennyman1

I see your parts - they are in the red truck on thebottom left of the pile in the photo...

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lol, you like that? That is a photoshop picture I made for a joke.

I got some good luck at the yard today. I found a 463b in a gallant with roller rockers and the complete ECI hardware, power steering and air conditioning stuff also. Someone removed the exhaust manifold though, so I don't know if it was a turbo they took or what.
The cam has a line groove from something getting between the cam and one of the caps. It isn't really bad and can be ground out. The images below show the cam and stuff removed because I grabbed it. I didn't know if this ECI unit is something I could put on my truck or not and if it was worth taking everything to do the update. I can get the harness and all for it. Mine is the G63B and this Gallant is the 463B so I figured I would ask in the forum if this fuel injection is the correct part to replace my carb in a swap. If so I can go back and remove it all for later install. The valve cover was different also very different from mine, but it will fit on my engine.
I picked up a pair of great stock side mirrors for the truck that is larger, stronger, and for trailer towing.
Anyway, I'll image them tomorrow and put the stuff I won't use for sale.


Attachment 6826
Attachment 6827
Attachment 6828

Still contemplating on going back and grabbing the fuel injection off this gallant at the yard. Not sure what happened to the motor, but it seemed to have something in the 2-3 port that looked like internal damage.
Attachment 6862
Put these in the other day, the old rear shocks were trashed.

Race cam & valve springs should be here any day now. Maybe today I hope.
Attachment 6930

The Cam came in today and the springs.

Looking at the Cam card is a little complicated in that I hope that the new springs will fit correctly and things match up the way they should. I put some numbers down on this post and if anyone has any early warning advice to give before I take the head apart, don't hesitate to post. The head will stay on the block, but the valve springs will be changed out. My main concern is that the springs will be working in their correct ranges. But, most of all...how should I start out the timing setup for this thing? What would be the best method of attack on making the timing adjustments? I do see on the card that my rocker adjustment changed a bit on intake by .002, but I don't see a timing mark setup. I guess to start out at the factory and begin pushing towards TDC as close as possible until it runs best.
Anyway, I hope to maybe get a start on it tomorrow afternoon or early evening if I feel up to it.
If you Cam guys can decipher the cam card, let me know what you feel about it.
Attachment 6864Attachment 6865Attachment 15906

Here is a (mild grind) CAM grind I found ......................Below is a comparison between these two cam grinds.
online that an Aussy posted for his rebuild g63. I thought I would post it for
maybe someone who might want it
Attachment 9242........................Attachment 10181


Download Full Version Program for Configuring Cam Grinding Specs.
Attachment 10316
Desktop Version Only Supports the Mitsubishi 2.0L Cam
Attachment 10317

Here is an Online Cam Grind Configuration Program
http://www.camquest.com/
Attachment 10315

So, your thinking of getting a cam grind!
Here are some numbers you may want to check before you send the cam out to the grinders.
Attachment 10477
Copyright - Stan Weiss

Well, bad news on the intake manifold. I showed up at the wrecking yard and the car crusher showed up before me. I was kind of angry since the Gallant was practically complete with all its parts. But, there will be more I guarantee this. This wrecking yard is in its infancy right now as it is a stepchild from a gigantic yard in the next town. The same owner owns both and the parts are abundantly available. I'll keep my eyes open and make a run again since I am very interested in locating the DOHC head for a swap as well as parts that folks may need in here.

While I was there the other day, I picked up these Eclipse seats for $17 for the pair. These are going into the truck ASAP.
Attachment 6887

I did some searching concerning the Camshaft installation for a G63B SOHC. I know that there is not a terrible amount of performance to gain from the SOHC but, there is some to find. The most valuable change would be to time the distributor advance to the cam. So, I did some looking around and located some pretty good information about timing the advance of the dizzy. I also located some information on installing the Cam into a SOHC Mitsubishi motor if anyone is interested. I'll upload the information and you can download it here below.

Attachment 6891

Started the installation of the cam, springs, and bucket seats tonight. Checked the spark plugs for the first time since the rebuild. Here are some images.
Attachment 6900Attachment 6901Attachment 15907
I am surprised how well the Schneider springs fit and they measured perfectly for height. I hope they help to quiet down the tappets, but this sound is normal for the non-hydraulic version of rockers. Valve lash has been reduced per cam recommendations by Schneider Cams. I have also been resourcing the modification of the distributor advance. The stock advance will not benefit the motor anymore and I will probably have to install the Chevy HEI vacuum advance into my dizzy to enhance the new cam.
Attachment 6931

The plugs look a little lean, I'll give it a turn to richen it up when I finish installing this stuff.
Attachment 6902

I am very happy with this ceramic header paint that I used also. The paint is remarkable so far and has not shown any type of heat problems at all.

Created a little more visual animation so the cam timing can sink into my deteriorating northern hemisphere. Going to head to the auto parts store and get a magnetic dial indicator. I probably can make the wheel myself, if I can't find one for under $60. I have a few spare pulleys I can create some that will work.
Attachment 6906Attachment 6934
(click image for full size)

PRINTABLE DEGREE WHEELS
(mount to a round metal plate)
Attachment 6917...Attachment 12627
Download - MightyRam50 Wheel
Attachment 6918

Download - 2 Izzy Degree Wheels
Attachment 12628


For figuring out your cam timing events, here are the equations.
CAMSHAFT SPECS FORMULAS

1. Intake Duration (ID) IO +180 + IC degrees
2. Exhaust Duration (ED) EO + 180 + EC degrees
3. Intake Center Line (ICL) ID/2 - IO degrees ATDC
4. Exhaust Center Line (ECL) ED/2 - EC degrees BTDC
5. Lobe Separation Angle (LSA) ICL/2 + ECL/2 degrees
6. Lobe Separation Angle (LSA) (ICL + ECL)/2 degrees
7. Valve overlap IO + EC degrees
8. Valve overlap (ID + ED)/2 - LSA degrees
9. Intake Opening (IO) ID/2 - ICL BTDC
10. Intake Closing (IC) ID - 180 - IO ABDC
11. Exhaust Closing (EC) ED/2 - ECL ATDC
12. Exhaust Opening (EO) ED - 180 - EC BBDC
_________________________________________

Attachment 13039

Lobe Lift
Refers to the distance, measured in thousandths of an inch, that the lobe of the cam is raised from the base circle of the cam. Increasing valve lift allows more air/fuel mixture to enter the cylinders and more exhaust to exit, which generally leads to an increase in engine performance. An increase in lift almost always leads to an increase in duration because increasing lobe lift requires more distance to create the opening and closing "ramps" on the lobe. However, today's computer-designed, asymmetrical profile cams have a high acceleration opening ramp, while the closing side sets the valve down softly, helping longevity.

Valve Lift
Refers to the distance, measured in thousandths of an inch, that the valve is lifted off its seat at the cam lobe's highest point. Remember, the cam's rotary motion is converted to linear motion thru a lifter, pushrod, and finally a rocker arm. Therefore, valve lift equals lobe lift multiplied by the rocker arm ratio.

Lifters
A cam lifter, aka a follower, aka a tappet, makes direct contact with the cam lobes and follows the contour, or profile, of the cam.

Types of lifters:
Hydraulic flat-tappet
This type of lifter is self-adjusting, thanks to a valve-controlled plunger inside its lifter body. engine oil pressure maintains preload against the pushrod, and since no lash allowance is needed, they run quieter than mechanical lifters. On the other hand, they can perform poorly at high rpm due to an inability to bleed down excessive oil pressure

Solid (Mechanical) flat-tappet
Essentially a solid link between the cam lobe and the pushrod. Allows for greater rpm potential, since bleed-down is not a concern, but do require that lash, or clearance, be set between the valve and rocker arm to allow for expansion as the engine gets hotter.

Mechanical roller-tappet
Allows for the most aggressive lobe designs, due to the roller follower, and lends itself to high rpm operation, since it's a solid body design. Like a solid flat tappet lifter, it requires a lash setting that must be readjusted over time.

Hydraulic roller-tappet
Allows for aggressive lobe designs along with self-adjustability and quiet operation. They can, however, also suffer from bleed-down at high rpm.
One of the roller cam's greatest advantages is that rolling frictional forces are less than those caused by the "sliding" of a flat-tappet cam, which frees up some power. In general, roller-tappet profiles can be more aggressive for a given duration. On the other hand, a flat-tappet cam actually accelerates the lifter more quickly in the initial portion of the lift curve. With a short-duration cam, a flat-tappet cam can actually get to a higher lift faster than a roller cam.

Attachment 13038

Duration
As lift refers to how far a valve opens, duration refers to how long it stays open. The opening time is expressed in degrees of crankshaft rotation, so a cam spec to 230* duration means the valve is being held open for 230* of crankshaft rotation.

Usually referred to by two types of duration
Advertised Duration
The number of crankshaft degrees that the cam follower is lifted more than a predetermined amount off its seat. the SAE standard is 0.006 inch. So advertised duration is the number of crankshaft degrees that the valve is open at least 0.006 inch.
***Not all manufacturers use SAE standard***

Duration at 0.050 inch
Measures the movement of the cam follower, in crankshaft degrees, from the point where it is first lifted 0.050 inch off the base circle on the opening side of the lobe to the point where it descends to 0.050 inch off the base circle on its closing side.
***Common industry-standard ***

Duration has a dramatic effect on engine performance. Stock camshafts usually offer relatively short duration and lift figures. This is done in the interest of a smooth idle and optimal part-throttle response. Longer intake duration opens the valve sooner in the cycle and closes it later. At lower engine speeds, this means the intake valve is still open as the piston begins to move upward, pushing the fresh air/fuel mixture out of the cylinder. On top of that, cylinder pressure can't build until the intake valve closes. The result is an engine with poor low and midrange response. But the late-closing intake valve becomes an advantage at higher rpm, when the higher air inlet speeds keep filling the cylinders, even with the late closing valve. Basically, the increasing duration will move the torque curve higher in the rpm range. Choosing a performance cam becomes a big compromise, you have to give some to get some.

Overlap
Overlap is the amount of time, measured in crankshaft degrees, that both the intake and the exhaust valves are open. This happens at the end of the exhaust stroke and the beginning of the intake stroke. Increasing duration or decreasing LSA, or doing both, increases overlap. A cam with an exhaust closing point of 4* ATDC and an intake opening point of 8* BTDC has 12* of total overlap

Lobe-Separation Angle (LSA)
Indicates the angle, in camshaft degrees, between the maximum lift points on the intake lobe and the exhaust lobe. Lobe separation is usually calculated by adding the intake centerline and the exhaust centerline, then dividing by two. For example, a cam with a 106* intake centerline and a 114* exhaust centerline has an LSA of 110* [(106+114)/2=110]

Narrower LSA
Increased overlap
Increased low-rpm torque
Narrower power band
Reduced idle quality
Increased cranking compression
Decreased piston-to-valve clearance

Wider LSA
Reduced overlap
Improved top-end power
Wider power band
Improved idle quality
Reduced cranking compression
Increased piston-to-valve clearance

Single and Dual pattern cams

Single Pattern
In this type of cam, the intake and exhaust lobe profiles are identical, using equal amounts of duration and lift.

Dual Pattern
This type of cam has different intake and exhaust profiles. In general, the exhaust lobe will employ more lift and duration to help evacuate exhaust gas from the cylinders.

Attachment 13040
How a Camshaft Works

Started doing some camshaft timing last night by checking the centerline of the cam. Want to make sure the truck is still correctly marked on it's timing marks and that things haven't changed drastically. Didn't get completed yet, but got the exhaust #1 valve checked. Need to do intake #1 and then calculate the difference and then degree. Friggin gauge I got to check the rise of the valve needed modification since the chromed adjustment shafts were too slippery and the lockdowns were not keeping it locked onto the shafts. I took some sandpaper and roughed both surfaces which helped a ton. The magnetic lockdown also needs to be adjusted because it sometimes will turn itself off if bumped. I did manage to install my new Eclipse buckets and replace the old IROC buckets. Now the only problem is not falling asleep in the seat while driving, so comfortable now and they lower the seating a bit in the cab.
I'll get to play with Mitsy some more today and teach myself about this CAM timing and stuff. I feel like I am jamming for finals at college so far. I am constantly reminded that you can't teach an old dog new tricks, but I fight it and thanks to a wifey that can understand that. :)
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Turned in my distributor to a shop to have it curved. Thanks for the helpful advice Pennyman, after thinking it over that was the best thing to do for it.
I also had time today to install some shock tubes for the hood of my truck. I no longer need the rod to support the hood and it is effortless to open it too. I added 2 shock tubes that I located at the wrecking yard that were pulled from the hatchback of an older RX7. They work great and do not rub anything when the hood is closed. Here is the completed project that took about an hour to do. If you decide to try this, I could supply the numbers of the tubes that I used if any are on them. It actually was pretty easy to configure the tubes to the hood too. Keeping them close to the hinge allowed the hood to open completely and let them fully extend to use their locking strength that is at the top end of their stroke.
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what year was the rx-7? I like that setup on the hood.

haha I have some bad trunk shocks from an SC 430 that I have been meaning to put on. those trunks are really heavy for some reason so I figured it would hold up the hood on these trucks no problem. my do that this weekend.

Got my distributor curved the other day and here are the final readings. One thing I must mention here is that my distributor was plugged into the Advance Vacuum port for a long time. Apparently, I have learned again that I do make many mistakes, but I am learning. :bang:
After the curving, they mentioned to me that the vacuum hose for the advance must be connected to the ported line of the weber carb. You can imagine my look when they said this :shock: , well not this bad, but close. lol.
I headed home and did the normal research on the carb and here you go folks. This is where mine is located.
Attachment 6945
This is an example image only, not my carb.

I'm sure if I chose the wrong one now, Pennyman will back me up and correct me here soon. I wouldn't know what to do without that guy. Nice to have someone watching your back for you.

Here are the new specs curved into the dizzy by the shop. In addition to the specs, they also mentioned that the cam put in was a quite healthy beast and would really do well with this dizzy update. Hope this helps anyone following along.
Attachment 6947

I have installed the dizzy, but for some weird reason, the wiring to the coil got changed. I thought I marked it clearly, but who knows. I am going to recheck the wiring and if anything has happened I can fix it. I have extra modules and whatever that will fix it.

the red one is the ported one - the easy way to tell is to look at the port in relation to the throttle blades. If its above the throttle blades, its ported vacuum - at or below the throttle blades its manifold vacuum. Ported vacuum rises with opening of the throttle blades, manifold vacuum drops with opening of the blades. That is why the dizzy won't advance on manifold vacuum. That new curve is perfect for what your cam is - more initial timing at the low end with less total timing. That will make that motor scream with that cam.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by pennyman1

the red one is the ported one - the easy way to tell is to look at the port in relation to the throttle blades. If it's above the throttle blades, its ported vacuum - at or below the throttle blades its manifold vacuum. Ported vacuum rises with the opening of the throttle blades, manifold vacuum drops with the opening of the blades. That is why the dizzy won't advance on the manifold vacuum. That new curve is perfect for what your cam is - more initial timing at the low end with less total timing. That will make that motor scream with that cam.

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Not sure if the illusion of the red circled tube looks like it is higher, but it is not. It is right even with the other vacuum tube that has a blue circle and that hose attached. That image example is where mine was until yesterday, but not anymore. I removed the screw that was plugging the Red circle tube and moved my dizzy hose line to that. Then I plugged up the blue circle one.
Attachment 6949

Quote:

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Originally Posted by pennyman1

what year was the rx-7? I like that setup on the hood.

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The car looked like this...Attachment 6950 with the hatch. Tomorrow I can take a look at these ones I put in for a serial number.
The other great thing when I installed these was that on the hood mounting, your ability to get fingers between the hood and the support piece sheet to put a nut on the bolt. Then on the area where the lower mount is bolted, there is enough layered body metal right there to drill and tap for threading a bolt into the body firmly.
Attachment 6937
Not sure if the wrecking yard RX7 hatch shocks were changed or modified at any time, but they came off the style I posted the image of. I would follow the same areas to mount them also. I took extra time to locate the right place for them to fit correctly, away from hitting the fender lips and be opened to their full locking position. Strange that when I tried to compress these shocks by hand it was almost impossible. Once installed they worked beautifully being at their right compression and decompression strokes. It is so nice to open the hood now and it rises with almost no effort now. :thumbup:

I'm with you on wanting to do the EFI upgrade.. So far all I've seen is Starion stuff being swapped onto our motors. I definitely want to do it asap though because I'm getting the itch for a turbo!

Yaaa turboooooo!
Well, here is the next add on update.

Attachment 6970

I found these beauties at the wrecking yard. Little dirty is all, perfect glass and all the extra thick gaskets and screws. I'll shut my eyes when I drill the new holes in the doors. :cool:

Got the truck running and dizzy in. Need to tweak it a bit here and there, but it is very close. The bottom end is very spunky now. Feels responsive and I need to learn the clutch again, lol. The new seats are so comfy too. I could drive across the country now. I Gotta watch when my buddies jump in the truck with their dirty hands and stuff. They'll laugh about it and I will have to make them stop laughing. lol.

Here is a little treat for you. First idle with the new Schneider cam and the curved distributor. Don't forget the Aussy Header, Magnaflow, and Weber.
I HAVE TO ADD TO THIS POST FOR VIEWING VIDEO. (If you want to hear the real sound and depth of this engine, put on those headphones and give it some bass a little. Computer speakers just don't give that reality feel that it really sounds like when your there.) I only use headphones.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IrOszwIMErE

sounds wicked - where's the burnout video? BTW, did you use a breakin oil with zddp in it?

I used what Schneider gave me which was a container of grease and I lathered the crap out of the cam, rockers valve springs, etc. I then kept the RPMs over 2000 per their recommendations for 15 minutes or more. I still have the Castrol 30wt which was also recommended and a big bottle of this...
Attachment 6980
I am going to run this for the final 1000 miles completing the 3 oil changes of breaking in. I have been starting to lay my foot into this thing to see what changes have been done and I must say I have a ton more bottom end in the truck. Speaking of lighting up the tires..., I laid down a nice pair of stripes the other day while rolling away from a damp ground stop sign. I ran it up till 1st gear was finished and then let 2nd catch the asphalt so I didn't end up with an exhibition from the city. I rarely put rubber down in quantity like that(never), BFG T/A's are too pricey to start enjoying that addiction.
I have about 300-400 more miles before the oil is replaced this last time. This will be the time, I also will replace that rear main seal at the same time. All other leaks of any kind are fixed except for the seal. I might see a fuel jetting change by the time this is over too.

Put your headphones on and take a quick drive. Always in HD
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VpoxNZuoJz0

Just read through this whole thread, great stuff!!

I also had a similar machine shop experience lol... good ones are hard to find these days.

I'll have to check out your videos when I'm on my computer instead of my phone.

-Robert

Replacing motor mounts now, I should of did this before the engine was installed. The driver's side mount is giving me problems since the holes don't line up perfectly and going through 2 plates to the frame makes in very uncooperative. I have tried using a punch to hold the line up placed in through the bottom and as I push the bolt from the top, slide out the punch to guide the bolt in, but there is not a lot of room to work with. I honed out the holes a little more on the plate that fits over the mounts and will try again.
The main reason I'm changing the mounts was to try and keep the exhaust from touching the frame under the passenger side of the truck. It doesn't always tap, just sometimes, which told me that something was moving. The mounts are pretty old and the passenger side was delaminating from the metal on the mount and probably was the problem. After the 1st, I also will probably head to the exhaust shop again to have some rerouting done to the exhaust. Though the sound is not yet gotten to me, I still want to exit the exhaust, heat out the side of the truck. This should also give the truck's nuts and bolts a rest from vibrations. My rear window slider is starting to bitch and it's right behind my head when driving. Anyway, that is what I'm doing right now.

Today we ordered this little mod device for the truck. $69.00 and some change shipped from FL. Should arrive in a few days and then I will paint it and figure something out to install it so it doesn't look like it's bolted on top of the hood. I also don't want to pork the hood all up either, but we'll see how brave I am once it arrives. COld weather is here and I sure would like to start parts painting the truck in the garage. Anyway, we will update you on the arrival and installation when it drops at the door.

Attachment 7270

I think I have seen a scoop like that somewhere... bond studs to the underside to bolt it to the hood.