Oil leak, what is the ultimate fix, replace seals in oil pump?

Hi all,
I have a 93 mighty max 2.4L. It has been running great. The only issue is the oil leak...It has 200k miles on clock but still drives great. I have new water pump, timing belts, valve stem seals and lifters in place..The clutch was replaced only 30k miles ago...It is just a little too early for a full overhaul... However I am so tired of oil leak... I replaced valve head gasket and put RTV over it, I am pretty sure now it is not the leaking source... But I still see oil leak....
I am thinking .. it must be the front case / oil pump seals. Is it difficult to replace them while engine in the car?

First up, check the positive crankcase valve. When these things get gummed up they will cause excessive crank case pressure and in turn force oil out through front and rear seals. Squirt some carb cleaner through it to flush out the funk and see what the engine does afterwards. If its clogged, no number of new seals will fix the leaks.

I have tried that. It worked pretty well. I think it is definately gonna be front case seal....

You can pull a front seal out and swap it while the oil pump cover is still on the engine. Buy a set of seal picks and take off the pulleys and belts. Gently pry the seal forward and slip it off the crank shaft (puncture the face of the seal and use the picks to pull the seal straight off the shaft, don't dig around the sides of it as you'll damage the shaft and the seal recess). Give the shaft a wipe clean and the seat where the seal sits in, then press the new seal in place. Work it into the seat evenly with your thumbs so it doesn't kick out higher on one side and make sure you get it to seat all the way in (a light spray of WD will make this easier). If you've got the seal in nice and square it won't leak.

Also, if it is a double lipped seal use a thin very flexible feeler gauge, place between crank and seal to gently push the inner lip back into position working around the crank. ! Gently ! and after you get it re-seated.

^^^ This ^^^
When I did the seals on the Mule, I bought a .015 single blade 'feeler' gauge ($ .85)
took 400 grit sand paper & rounded all the edges (smooth to feel). applied a little oil
to the gauge & made double sure I had not rolled over either seal lip.
---Cause--- well I did have to do the repair twice !!! lol at Myself !!!
But, Hey ! now I have another special tool !

Oh, the things we learn from screwing stuff up. So that means you will end up with 3 or 4 of those special feeler gauges when you miss place the first one and say screw it its cheaper to go buy and make a new one than waste 2 hours trying to find the original only to find it an hour after you just made the new one.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mopar_ja

Oh, the things we learn from screwing stuff up. So that means you will end up with 3 or 4 of those special feeler gauges when you miss place the first one and say screw it its cheaper to go buy and make a new one than waste 2 hours trying to find the original only to find it an hour after you just made the new one.

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Nope,
I am a 34'th year 3'rd Gen wrench... 910 classes to date, which amounts to squat as I have 6 yrs into the D-50 platform.
There is a commonality between all things I.C.E. related however... THE MOST SINGULAR is professional courtesy, & keeping a 'tool' that works :)