A Timing issue?

I need a little help. My buddy and I are working on my project truck 1987 RAM50 2.0- a.k.a "The HEMORRHOID"
When I bought the truck last year it ran like crap, the carb leaked and it couldn't go over 45 mph. We managed to get the Weber carb swap done and got it running. But it's still running like poop. It runs well at idle and at half throttle, but at WOT it bogs and seems to have forgotten it has a set of nuts.

All joking aside. We have tuned the carb 6 ways to sunday and I can confidently say its not a carb issue. We advanced the timing (all the way) and it seemed to get rid of the pinging sound but it still bogs at WOT and needs 3 miles to get to 45mph. We turned/advanced the distributor 1 tooth and it was too much (backfire and running rough) so we turned it back a tooth. It has good pickup at low RPM's but still chugs in the high range and "diesels" when you shut her down.

We checked the distributor advance mechanism with a vacuum pump/gauge and the timing advanced like it should under vacuum. Incidentally, there are 2 vacuum lines from the vacuum advance that I T'd into 1 line that hooks up to the Weber, is that the right way to do it?

We checked for vacuum leaks and found none. The only thing we can think of is the timing belt jumped a tooth.....

Anyone have any ideas on what we could be causing this?

Hey there...you might take the top timing cover off and see if there's oil in there. Also, while the cover is off, set the crank timing mark to #1 TDC, then see if the cam is also aligned (and remember: it's the 'bump' cast into the head, not the top of the head, that is the timing mark). (Forum isn't letting me post pics right now).

If the tensioner is loose it could cause slippage. You might consider removing the lower timing cover and check things out.

It has a belt that is getting ready to break on you. It happens all the time on here. It's a 30 year old part that no one looks at.

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Originally Posted by camoit

It has a belt that is getting ready to break on you. It happens all the time on here. It's a 30 year old part that no one looks at.

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Removing that top cover will allow you to inspect the belt. Three bolts is all it takes.

So do I apply the Preparation H to the muffler area? HA!

Thanks for the advice. So the general consensus is that it's most likely the timing belt? Should I check anything else?

It wasn't until I joined this forum that I learned a clogged catalytic converter can cause poor performance, and it isn't clear to me why they clog, but some have reported this condition. So actually, the Prep H might be close to the truth. I don't know how you test for a clogged catalytic converter. Best to make sure the timing belt is good, and then that's it's right.

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I don't know how you test for a clogged catalytic converter.

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You might drive it to a Catalytic Church and see if a Confessional helps.

The Cat was tossed by the previous owner. I checked the tailpipe, its got some good wind to it and the muffler doesn't seem to be clogged unfortunately we weren't able to contact a priest, but a proctologist was consulted. Im going to pull the upper timing cover and give it a go. The only thing else I can think of is not enough fuel pressure from the carter pump or the timing belt is on its way out.

Does anyone know where I can get a new or oldstock bottom timing belt cover? The one on the truck now was put on incorrectly by the moron that owned it previously and the belt wore off the timing marks. We've been setting the timing by feel and sound. Its all the way advanced at this point, and I don't have the faintest idea what it's at.

Well we can check "prostrate irritation" off the list.

I humbly suggest you take a deep breath and accept the task of removing the bottom timing cover. Keep a can of Jimmy Hoffa Repellant nearby. The bottom cover will involve removing the fan and the first of the crank pulley components (not the center big bolt, but the four smaller bolts). Inside the timing marks are there for all aspects of the engine. Especially since your lower cover is "proctologisted-up", you need to go to the manual-backup of timing marks on the engine.
This may be of some help: http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...gine-Reference


I gave my lower timing cover to a member of the forum, so I can't offer it to you. I can only suggest a junk yard, and be sure it's for that engine size: there are subtle differences in the 2.0 and the 2.4.

Though I suspect your truck has the timing connector, I can't be sure: my 2.0 does, but RamBam's does not. My 2.4 definitely does, and you MUST use it to set timing. I hope a forum expert comes along and helps in this aspect. The timing connector needs to be grounded during the timing ritual...at least, in the 2.4

Since you're under the hood, look at the metal plate on the firewall and get the engine # off it. It should read "4G64" or "G63B' or "G, I don't know". That helps everyone know the engine we're dealing with for more accurate vague specifics.

Yep. Timing belt. The Hemorrhoid strikes again!

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Originally Posted by royster

It wasn't until I joined this forum that I learned a clogged catalytic converter can cause poor performance, and it isn't clear to me why they clog, but some have reported this condition. So actually, the Prep H might be close to the truth. I don't know how you test for a clogged catalytic converter. Best to make sure the timing belt is good, and then that's it's right.


You might drive it to a Catalytic Church and see if a Confessional helps.

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You can test with a vacuum gage. It will start out the moment start the engine with a high vacuum around 22 or somthing like that. Then it will go lower. down to 19.. If the needle waves back and forth it's got a valve problem. There is a hole bunch if things it can tell you. There is a hole section on testing with one in the UTI manual in the manual section.

With the cover off there is a mark on the timing pulley that aligns up with a pin on the block or somthing like that. I would need to look in the tech section. There is a post in there that shows the marks.