Wierd idling problem

I have an 86 Ram50 2.0 with the factory Mikuni carb. This idling things is driving me insane. i just rebuilt carb which now runs alot betetr than it did as there was sme ports clogged and the high speed jet was clogged. but when i touch gas it will go to that rpm and slowly lower. But once it is down it still seems pretty high.

I am not sure if it is idling that hgih or just sounds like it is. the one vacuum line and the exhaust hose coming off the exhaust maniford which i guess is the egr valve? just puts out alot of exhaust and noise. Not sure if that'd cause the problem or not. Choke seems to be opening great. Car runs good just soundsl iek the engine is in super high idle and takes awhile to lower down a little bit. ive sprayed every vacuum line with carb cleaner to see if engine trys to race up some, nothing. i believe all vacuums are fine.There was 3 vacuum lines plugged 2 coming off right under the carb neck parralell wit h each other then one coming off the choke pull off i believe it is. has a long rod and spring under neath the valve (choke pull off?) Any help would be greatful. ive been at this for a few months now and finally rebuilt carb to see if that would fix the problem.

*edit:* truck does not have a/c equipped

If you are talking about the line coming out of the exhaust manifold to the air cleaner - that needs to be connected correctly or capped to prevent the massive exhaust leak that is causing. It's a wonder it evens runs like that. There also sounds like the choke is not working right either - see the online manual for proper setup. The best solution is to replace it with a weber.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by pennyman1

If you are talking about the line coming out of the exhaust manifold to the air cleaner - that needs to be connected correctly or capped to prevent the massive exhaust leak that is causing. It's a wonder it evens runs like that. There also sounds like the choke is not working right either - see the online manual for proper setup. The best solution is to replace it with a weber.

---

Oh it runs great even driving it no sput or sputters, just loud. i was gonna put some headers on it to see if it fixes the problem. It does miss a tiny bit when at low idle. the choke seems to be working correctly to me i can open and close it. if its fully opened and i start to close it engine will start to race up but if i close it compeltely well everyone knows thats just gonna flood it and kill it :P.

I'd ratehr not convert it to a weber just yet. though ican get the kit for what around $200? i'd rather run the original one unless all else fails.

So question this truck is a 5 speed also. it did not come with a tach. is there wiring in this truck for a tach i can tap into for installing one with ease. I do believe some of these came with a tach.? If idle is decent then i will knwo its just exhaust sound

Ok some updates. And some more bad news....

Took fitting out of exhaust and welded a bolt into it air tight to fix most of its exhaust leak. Then took the open vacuum line from the right side of intake manifold and added a hose ot it to the carb throttle opener that was plugged. Turn screws and got it to idle down fairly nice but still misfiring..

So i got my intake manifold gasket today also so i took everything apart. i did not mark the dist. put new gasket on including the mechanical fuel pump. As most people just leave that alone and cut the gasket. but i had gasket so i must change it as its an old gasket..

Cleaned out intake manifold as some ports were completely clogged with carbon which was the port going from the exhaust to the intake manifold got it all nice and cleaned out. Same with ti going through engine to the exhaust can blow air through it and hear it in the exhaust. perfect..

Now i put everything back together try to start it and it just cranks.. put gas inside carb for a boost. Dont even try to start, so i checked timing on dist was off. SO took plug 1 out aligned crank notch to TDC-T with number 1 piston at complete top and then aligned distributor to plug one..

Tryed to crank it and it just cranks still. and the carb now backfires.. Checked ALL bolts on intake manifold all completely tight. I do know the gasket on the car bt ointake mani had a small tear not going all the way through but was caused from taking it on and off.. Not sure if thats problem or not.. Im thinking it has to do with the fuel pump as i used to see it spray nicely when i pressed throttle now when i press it it spins then goes straight which is not normal from what i have seen it doing..

How did i go from making it run good to not run at all :( lol.. Any suggestions? Timing seems perfect to my prospective.. Ive even tryed turning dist left and right to see if that helps does same..

Please help me out here. In morning im gonna pull fuel line off and check to see if pushing out a decent amount of pressure.

Any suggestions would be great. Thank you in advance. Justin

Vehicle: 86 Dodge Ram50 2.0 5speed.

your out 180 on the timing.

Even though piston number 1 is all the way top dead center. I was gonan try pulling dist. out and turning engine 360 to its tdc again then putting dist back in and seeing if that way it but i was just swearing it was correct :(!

there is a good chance that you installed the dist when the cylinder was on valve overlap, and not TDC. If you pull the valve cover you can confirm the cam timing when installing the dist. The rocker arms will be loose. Then confirm all timing visually before cranking it over.

What Camoit said, I've done the same thing myself a number of times. Back firing through the carb is one of the signs of it being out 180 degrees. Remember the crank goes around twice to every 1 time of the cams.

100% correct turned it once and the cam was 180 off took dist out turned it 180 and wala started right up. Now for fine tuning. And wow did the new intake manifold gasket fix that high rpm andslow dropping rate it was doing. sounds os much nicer now. still got exhaust leaks and small misses. which could b due to the exhaust manifold being cranks from the 02 sensor all the way up to the head. o2 sensor leaks. Time for some headers and see if that fixed the surging it does. Also need to go under and probably cut the cat out as there so many leaks of air in the exhaust and muffler that it lets air go otu everywhere. And still smokes like a monkey. I just did oil chaneg and added 1 quart of lucas oil stabalizer in it to see if thats gonna help any.

Whats funny when i did oil change it had about a quart of so of oil in it. Thats not cool :(! Any ideas of the mising at idle? it could just be due to the exhaust leak at the manifold.

and BTW: New plugs, wires, and dist is installed.

So new update. engines coming out for rebuild in my shed :D, from all tests done it seems the piston rings are gonners, took exhaust manifold off after having everything disconected ready to pull engine out and cyl 4 has oil in the port. smokes like a monkey. Any ideas on any nice forged pistons i can put into it that is not to expensive. if i have head off might as well putsomethign beter back in.

We are limited on what out there for our trucks. So anything you find will be better. Stock they were pumping out a huge 97 to 112 HP. There is like only 1 cam out there and it's a re-grind of the cam you have. It will help. Just don't expect to have a monster under the hood when your done. Parts are the Achilles heal of these trucks. First thing you need to do is find another one just for parts. Under 500 is a good price. Look for one that runs, so then you have a good long block to work with, and a spair everything.

yeah i understand that, my 74 jeep dj5 is very hard to find parts also. whats even worse is insurance companies and stuff dont even have a listing model in there system so they have to use cj5 lol

the engine in this truck is a g63b i bought for $400 and it runs just needs new rings engine is out and im waiting for my engine stand to get here today so i can remove the intake mani and then i can start rebuilding it :). Im jus tgonna do all new bearings all new pistons, rings, pretty much a 70% rebuild to make it nearly brand new again.i cannot find online anywhere a inner door handle for the effing thing. small little chrome one is what it has factory dont think the 87+ fits. If i was in florida i am mainly a mitsubishi specialist on 6g72 engines 4g64 engines out of galants and such. My last mitsubishi was a show car sat 2 inches from ground pushing from factory 200 hp to 290 hp with no turbo no nothing. engine came out of a diamante with many modifications to fit it in. Oh and a whopping 6mpg highway :D my buddy's corvette barely kept up with it when we raced. i miss my baby :( won me lots of car shows and has been in a few calenders.

Which side do you need - I have a parts truck with both doors complete that I can get you the handle from?

right side (passenger) is it the small chrome metal one? if so how much ill buy it :)

I think I have an extra one as well if Pennyman doesn't have one let me know.

thank you :) we'll see how that goes. and for some good news bad news

tore engine apart removed all the bearings anddddd cyl 4's journal has some decent lines in it, dont think they are too bad but you can still grab them with your finger nail also cyl3 has less minor ones. as for the bearings the rod bearings were almost gone and starting to pit and shred apart some, which would show the nice fine metal i found in the oil pan.. one of the main bearings was starting but still wasnt to bad, and last but not least the piston walls feel great no scratches or anything just need a quick hone inside those with a 60 degree etch like it already has. i really done want to remove the crank to have it machined down because then i gotta get undersided bearings :(, i wonder if its just better to buy a new crank.

this could have been from it running with barely a quart of oil :(.

ok so another update, just got some time yesterday to get all the new valve guide seals in, and to lap the valves as it seemed they werent seating 100% pistons and rings are in and balance shaft stuff is timed, i marked everythign where it was and crank was on but the balance shaft pully was about 90º CW off so set that to its proper timing, only things left to do is to chaneg the little 4 valve guide seals of the intake side, and do a quick little port and polish on intake and head while it is off, als changed all 3 front seals that were hard as can be and cracked, still gotta change the cam seal once head is on, and rear main once its off the engine stand to be able to get to it :)