6g7 info

Disclaimer i pulled this from an eclipse sight not allthis will apply here but still good information. I plan to keep adding asi find more info (couldnt find much here)

6G72, 6G74, and 6G75 FAQ. Over the past few months I’ve been getting a good number of questions, some of which are asked over and over. So to make it easier for everyone. I have compiled a list of FAQ. 1. Q: What gains will I see if I swap out my intake manifold (6G72 GT mani) to a 6G74 intake manifold? Is it worth it? A: It is worth the trouble. The 6G72 intake manifold (GT version) is a P.O.S. .I.M.O.. It actually chokes the engine at higher RPM’s. Buy yourself a GTS intake mani or a 6G74 mani. You wont be disappointed. 2. Q: Will the 6G74 throttle body bolt on to my eclipse without modification? A: No. 2 items must be looked at. First item is the cruise control solenoid and its holding bracket. Both of these items hit the firewall. Short and simple solution is to remove the bracket and remove the cruise control solenoid. Second item to look at is the TPS socket. It is different from the connector that we got on our eclipse. Simple solution to that is to buy a TPS pigtail and install that in place of our stock TPS connector. 3. Q: I want to do the full 6G74 engine swap, how much will I be spending at a minimum if I do the swap myself? A: A tight budget swap will run you at a minimum of about $750ish (assuming you find a 6G74 at $450 shipped). Account for the following: New belts (all), fluids (all), and a few miscellaneous items. 4. Q: After I did the swap, I got 2 SES codes; first being a cam position sensor malfunction and a crank position sensor malfunction. How do I fix this? A: The one item that is tripping both codes is the cam reluctor wheel. Diamante’s distributors only came with a 1-pulse reluctor wheel. 2003 to 2005 eclipse’s have 3 pulse reluctor wheels. If you performed this swap on a 2000 to 2002 eclipse, you will not have this problem (assuming you USE the diamante distributor). Fix action is to tear down the distributor assembly, pull the reluctor wheel from both distributors and swap the 3 pulse wheel onto the diamante distributor assembly. Reset the ECU (disconnect pos terminal from battery for about 10 min) and your problem should be fixed. 5. Q: I want to try putting a 6G75 intake manifold on my 6G72. What problems need to be fixed in order to make it work? A: There are 3 problems that I’ve personally seen. First problem and most difficult to overcome is the throttle cable bracket tie down (the screw holes which hold your throttle cable bracket in place). There is no tie down (6G75 equipped vehicles have throttle cable-less throttle bodies). You will have to drill and tap your own tie down. I’ve done it…..not really hard at all if you have the tools. Next issue is the fuel pressure regulator vacuum port. There isn’t one. You can do 1 of 2 things. Drill and tap a hole to insert a nipple into (so to speak) or just go out to your local car parts store and buy yourself a vacuum “T” so you can add a vacuum port to feed your fuel pressure regulator. Third problem is actually dependent on “which” 6G75 manifold you bought. If you bought a manifold from a Galant-non ralliart model (like I did), the throttle body mounting point is actually curved in towards the front of the engine bay (at approximately 60ish degrees. Your battery will be in the way once you mount the throttle body on. Fix action is to move your battery over towards the drivers side. 6. Q: Will the heads from my 6G72 fit onto the 6G74 block? A: Yes. ALL cylinder heads within the 6G7x family will swap between blocks. Though they will bolt on, that does not mean that all coolant passages are in the same location/size (6G72, 6G74 and 6G75 have identical coolant passages). 7. Q: Do you recommend upgrading the stock clutch to a high performance clutch when doing and engine swap? A: YES. I have personally used the stock eclipse shitty clutch with the 6G74 engine. Clutch slippage will occur. 8. Q: I did the 6G74 engine swap on my automatic tranmission 200x eclipse. My speedometer sometimes goes out (does not work) and the ECU throws the transmission into 2nd gear permanently till I reset the ECU, how can I fix this? A: I personally do not have a automatic transmission eclipse….but I have helped swap engines on an auto tranny eclipse. Same problem did occur. Though I do not have a answer for this problem, I have a “theoretical” solution for it. That solution would be to pull out the cams from your 6G72 and put them in the 6G74 (use the 6G72 valve covers to time your cams!). Also use your stock distributor. Your ECU should not see any difference when metering RPM’s like it does when you use the diamante distributor and cams. Therefore it should put an end to your problem. (if anyone out there does this, please pm me and let me know if it has fixed the problem). 9. Q: Is it possible to install a 6G75 intake manifold on my 6G74? What problems will I have? A: Refer to question number 5. WITH one additional problem. Plenum will not clear the hood. If you so choose to cut your hood, problem solved. 10. Q: Why can’t I just put my stock distributor on the 6G74? Doesn’t it fit? A: Does it fit you ask? Yes it does. Does it work….yes and no. The 6G74’s cam timing is different than that of the 6G72. There for you will have the symptoms from question #4 with an additional problem. Your ignition timing will be all f*kt up. The car will run, it will just run horribly. Don’t be lazy, tear down the distributors and swap the reluctor wheels. 11. Q: You mentioned that you swapped the cams from the 6G72 onto the 6G74. Did you have to swap the reluctor wheel back? Did you have to swap distributors? A: If you swap the cams over….swap BACK to the stock distributor (also use the stock reluctor wheel….the one your car came with). 12. Q: Do I need to swap the fuel injectors from the 6G74 back to the 6G72’s injectors if I decide not to tune the ECU for now? A: YES! Not tuning and using larger injectors (270’s vs 210’s) will cause a number of problems. A few of them being; running extremely rich air/fuel mixtures, numerous SES codes, and poor performance from your engine. 13. Q: I’m in the middle of doing my engine swap and I have a problem, or 2…. My alternator wont line up and my power steering pump will not line up also. How can I fix this? A: Make sure to use the alternator bracket that came with the 6G74 and also make sure you use the upper power steering bracket that came with it too. 14. Q: I read that you are using the crank pulley from the 6G72 on the 6G74, any benefit to that? Also what about the timing marks on the crank pulley’s, are they on the same spot on both? A: For rotational weight reduction I chose to use the 6G72’s crank pulley (1.5 LBS lighter). Contrary to what I posted before, both crank pulley’s have the timing marks on the exact same location. 15. Q: I noticed that the housing where the thermostat is at looks different from our stock one. My heater hoses are too long. What do I do? A: Cut the hose’s length to fit. 16. Q: I noticed my ECU is reading higher water temperature readings since I did the swap. Is this normal? If it is not, what can I do to fix this? A: Re-use the stock 6G72 thermostat. It reads a few degrees cooler than that of the 6G74’s thermostat. That should solve your problem. More to come....when I have more time. Hope this helps

A whole lot of that stuff doesn't apply to the 12V 6G72 we use. It's aimed more at swapping 74 and 75 engines into FWD 24V SOHC 3G Eclipse.

unless i am mistaken ( which i could be since im new to this engine) the blocks are the same

for reference


"Since we are all here to share the common interest in Mitsubishi's family of large V6 engines this post will be to help dispose some myths within the family of engines.
Lets start with the block,
There are to date four families of 6G7X engine blocks.
The first one of interest is the original 6G72 SOHC 12V and the DOHC 24V engine. Although the two engines do not have the same block as far as interchange they are of the same architecture. There are differences in the cast ribs on the sides of the blocks

The second in line is the 6G74 DOHC, this engine was derived from the G72 but with the added 18mm deck height.

The third is the SOHC 24V series of engine in various displacements.

The fourth, in 2001 a redesigned block was introduced with numerous detail changes in the 3.5 G74 and 3.8 G75 displacements.
I will add details later, bear with me this is just the beginning here.

There is a great amount of interchangeability between these families.
The rear face of all the 6G7X engines are the same. They all have the same bolt pattern on both the crankshaft and the bellhousing.
The side mounts. There are some variation in the blocks castings for the bosses on the sides of the blocks but with a little ingenuity the main engine brackets will interchange between all of the blocks. i myself have installed a 2006 3.8L derived from a Galant into a RWD application using the side brackets from an early 3.0 Montero. Not every bolt could be used since the castings were different and one bolt hole on the right side needed to be moved and enlarged from 8mm to 12mm.

The front face,
Oil pumps for the most part will interchange between engines but the radius where the oil sump mates up is not the same. Oil filter locations will be either left front face or on the right side face of the oil pump housing. There are no differences on the block as far as filter location.
Waterpumps will interchange between engines. The front section of the waterpumps are essentially the same with the rear section being interchangeable allowing for different choices in water plumbing.

More later,
Charlie North"
http://6g72rwd.forumcircle.com/viewtopic.php?t=9

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by twoll86

unless i am mistaken ( which i could be since im new to this engine) the blocks are the same

---

Sadly, they are not. There's a reason 3000GT owners have to import JDM Debonaire engines when they want to go to 3.5L swaps, rather than scavenging engines out of Montero SRs. And that's just going from 72 DOHC to 74 DOHC. It gets even worse with the old 12V engines vs the newer stuff. This explains a lot of it: http://www.wrenchjockey.com/Webpages/6G74swap.html

You can't even use a newer 3.5L or 3.8L in a 3000GT because of all the differences in engine block bosses and oil pump bracket issues. That stuff isn't AS bad on the trucks, but it's still a concern. Accessory brackets and motor mounts mostly.

So while the engines are a very similar family, there are a ton of differences. Enough to make this far from a drop-in swap.

This is another good example: http://www.4x4extremesports.com/inde..._3.0_3.5-6.php

That guy was going from a Montero Sport 3.0L to a Montero Sport 3.5L. Same truck, with both engines being offered from the factory, and only a couple model years separating his truck from the donor truck. And he still had to modify a ton of stuff to get it to physically fit. Last I checked, he never got the ECU working quite right.

I'm not saying there's no good info there. All I'm saying is to research VERY carefully, because there's a TON of bad info on the internet. As a very simple example, I read on this board where people were talking about what seats are 'bolt in' for a Mighty Max. Turns out, none of those people had ever seen how the floor pan of a 4x4 is different from a 2WD. Because of that, I'm stuck with seats I can't use without some serious modifications. And that's just silly seats. Imagine how much people have gotten wrong about something as complex as engines!

Just be very careful. I know of 3 distinct and mostly incompatible versions of 3.0L "6G72" alone.

I've got some high hopes about putting a 6G75 into my truck, but one thing I've learned over the past few months is that virtually all of it will be custom. One thing I wanted to do was install a 6G75 engine management system onto my 72 for testing, and I can't even do that. There's no place to install most of the sensors I need. The mounting locations just don't exist on a 12V 6G72, even though it's allegedly the 'same block' and 'ALL cylinder heads within the 6G7x family will swap between blocks.'

There's a ton of small detail differences, and it's those details that'll kill your project if you're not prepared for them.

As the years go newer, the more the engines change. Not just Mitsu, all makes - thank the EPA for that...

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Jeff V.

Sadly, they are not. There's a reason 3000GT owners have to import JDM Debonaire engines when they want to go to 3.5L swaps, rather than scavenging engines out of Montero SRs. And that's just going from 72 DOHC to 74 DOHC. It gets even worse with the old 12V engines vs the newer stuff. This explains a lot of it: http://www.wrenchjockey.com/Webpages/6G74swap.html

You can't even use a newer 3.5L or 3.8L in a 3000GT because of all the differences in engine block bosses and oil pump bracket issues. That stuff isn't AS bad on the trucks, but it's still a concern. Accessory brackets and motor mounts mostly.

So while the engines are a very similar family, there are a ton of differences. Enough to make this far from a drop-in swap.

This is another good example: http://www.4x4extremesports.com/inde..._3.0_3.5-6.php

That guy was going from a Montero Sport 3.0L to a Montero Sport 3.5L. Same truck, with both engines being offered from the factory, and only a couple model years separating his truck from the donor truck. And he still had to modify a ton of stuff to get it to physically fit. Last I checked, he never got the ECU working quite right.

I'm not saying there's no good info there. All I'm saying is to research VERY carefully, because there's a TON of bad info on the internet. As a very simple example, I read on this board where people were talking about what seats are 'bolt in' for a Mighty Max. Turns out, none of those people had ever seen how the floor pan of a 4x4 is different from a 2WD. Because of that, I'm stuck with seats I can't use without some serious modifications. And that's just silly seats. Imagine how much people have gotten wrong about something as complex as engines!

Just be very careful. I know of 3 distinct and mostly incompatible versions of 3.0L "6G72" alone.

I've got some high hopes about putting a 6G75 into my truck, but one thing I've learned over the past few months is that virtually all of it will be custom. One thing I wanted to do was install a 6G75 engine management system onto my 72 for testing, and I can't even do that. There's no place to install most of the sensors I need. The mounting locations just don't exist on a 12V 6G72, even though it's allegedly the 'same block' and 'ALL cylinder heads within the 6G7x family will swap between blocks.'

There's a ton of small detail differences, and it's those details that'll kill your project if you're not prepared for them.

---

Good advice here. Not all 6g7* blocks and configurations are the same. Like Jeff I am tackling a similar larger displacement build for my truck. I'm almost sold that a montero 3.5 sr block with later sohc heads would be the best fit for maximum displacement in the's trucks. Dont quote me on that just yet but I have my reasons.

Great info! Am i correct in assuming that they all have the same bolt pattern for the transmission?

From what I have seen (and my experience is not universal) all 6G7 series engines have the same bolt pattern at the transmission side of the block. The problem comes from all the other sides of the block. Motor mount and accessory bosses that are in different locations or simply not present on the sides of the block, as well as differences in the oil pump passages, are the biggest problems. Especially in FWD applications, due to the how the axle shaft mounts, and whether or not it'll run into the oil filter housing.

I believe it's less of an issue in RWD/4WD applications, but that's mostly speculation at this point. There's a good chance you'll still need custom motor and accessory mounts when you're swapping to newer 24V engines. But at least to me, that's preferable to needing custom axle mounts and remote oil filter/cooler assemblies.

Update. I have successfully installed a 6G75 MIVEC into my 6g72 Mighty Max. It is doable and is the largest 6G7* motor Mitsubishi makes in the states.

Pics or it ain't so...lol

don't tease us like that. How does it drive ? Deserves a build thread

Build thread is here:

http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...-Max-4X4-Build

Runs like a bat out of hell.

https://youtu.be/JyjcxxiDjCc

I’ve got a couple videos on it if you check out my uploads.

Too bad I can't c the photos in the thread. Videos r cool. Well done sir!!

Yea some of the picture links are likely broken. The YouTube vids make up for it though.

This thing goes hard! Well done with your transplant. :clap1:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by geezer101

This thing goes hard! Well done with your transplant. :clap1:

---

Thanks bud. That video is right after I installed my rear LSD so that’s laying a big patch down. I’ve done some mods since to free up even more horsepower since then but have garages her for the winter.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Chargerx3

Thanks bud. That video is right after I installed my rear LSD so that’s laying a big patch down. I’ve done some mods since to free up even more horsepower since then but have garages her for the winter.

---

Not the appropriate place for this but I was doing some research the other night on LSD's and found this interesting (if not weird) tip on Mitsubishis "crap" LSD and how to get them back up and fighting hard again...

https://www2.pajeroclub.com.au/forum...ad.php?t=35290

Interesting. Yea mine works just fine.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Chargerx3

Interesting. Yea mine works just fine.

---

:layrubber:Yup, we noticed :lmao: