4d55 wastegate actuator

Hi there, i have been playing with my boost levels a bit!
Seems i have maxed out the adjustment on the wastegate actuator, im at about 12.5-13 PSI boost. Looking to get about 15 PSI, maybe a pound or 2 more....

is there an aftermarket wastegate actuator that i should use? Has anyone monkeyed around with theirs or replaced it with a different actuator?

I crimped off the vacuum line and the turbo hit 20PSI (maybe more my boost gauge only goes to 20) i didnt do a full pull obviously as i didnt wanna overboost too much, just seeing what the turbo was capable of making and clearly 15PSI Should not be a problem with the proper fuel levels as well, just looking to find the best way to get to 15PSI.... the stock wastegate may be able to do more, but i have ran out of adjustment on the rod that allows me to adjust the boost pressure...

looked at this one, says its universal just have to figure out the mounting position and if this one will work. it says 14PSI, is that the lowest the actuator will go? or the highest? its clearly an adjustable one just a little curious of why it says 14PSI.

Sorry, i am still fairly new to the turbo diesel game! any help appreciated :)

forgot to include the link of the one in question lol

http://www.summitracing.com/int/part...5142/overview/

answered my own question.

http://www.summitracing.com/int/part...1001/overview/

should allow me to adjust to what ever boost i want :) at least, from the product description!

Again, sorry, new to the turbo/diesel world :)

Seems to be lots of one sided conversations on the diesel forum...

You wont notice any difference in power. Even removing and plugging the hose going to the wastegate won't add any noticeable power increase.

Well i bought a manual boost controller, adjusted the diaphram a couple degrees so im getting more fuel and air, deffinatly seems to pull a little stronger, could just be my mind playing tricks though! :P

Me and a buddy had a little drag from a roll (87 ranger and 86 ranger both with 4d55 diesels) and we did it once before and we were dead even, then once i upped a little fuel and a few more PSI i start to pull away on the top end now so it must have made a little difference! :)

How about doing a compression check? $40 on ebay for the tester harbor freight. universal diesel kit. Most of these things are either 1. Worn out. 2. Machine work done by a person who will not follow directions and fit pistons to proper clearance resulting in excessive ring gap. Should be only .0015-.0025 total piston to cylinder clearance. Had 3 different shops screw it up for me on different blocks. Each one I made them resleeve the block for free as they were already .040 over. Makes a big difference in how long the motor lasts and power.

Should be min 350 psi.

I would not over boost a worn out engine you will just throw a rod or spin a bearing

Here is a cool pictorial how to. It's in french, but basiclaly is an IP diaphragm mod and shimming the wastegate actuator to change the position of the wastegate lever and affect the amount the wastegate opens.(I think that's the effect) I could translate the page if necesary, but the pics are pretty obvious.
I think that is your goal, to get a bit more than the rod adjustment can give.

http://www.chez-galium.com/automobil...sm=meca&id=381

yea i will be doing a compression check soon! from driving around/startups it seems like it has good comp and running on all cylinders, but until i actually get it tested who knows.

I dont usually do WOT pulls very often and try to keep the boost and RPM's down until i get it checked. Im sitting at about 14.5 LBS of boost on WOT pulls so i dont think thats too much boost....

also has very little blow by from the intake breather hose which is good sign i believe.

I would ASSume the engine is good, until unless its showing signs its not. Your assessment of blowby, good compression (equal on all 4 cylinders also), running smooth, starting easily and quickly, etc. would lead me to believe the engine is good to go for another 500,000 miles, at least.
My 1984, bought new (first new vehicle I ever bought!:) got 450,000 on it before I got hit, then did another 154,000 before I traded it in on a 4wd V6 MMax in 1990!. Still ran perfectly. I ran 18 lbs boost with some added fueling, and a ported turbo, as well as match ported head, intake, and gaskets. I used it as my DD construction truck, hauling and towing 3 to 4 times weekly. Then every other wkend, hooked my 4000lbs Stamas 22 ft Cuddy Cabin fishing boat and galvanized tandem axle trailer to it, punched it in 4th gear, and proceeded to smoke it at 12mpg all the way to Gulf SHores, AL (200 miles approx) at 55-0 mph. up hills slowed, downhill sped up. I did use 4th gear as it was direct drive and stronger for towing. ALso, better torque at the slower speeds towing. At 80, unloaded, it was better in 5th, of course.

I NEVER did ANYTHING except maintain it (religously, oil changes with Castrol every 5000 miles, and Amsoil in tranny and diff every 80-100,000 miles. (Didn;t know I should have sed Rotella etc, and had to flush engine at 200,000 miles from oil solidifying 9Gas Castrol 10w 30). Also burned up turbo's at 120,000 miles approx, so 4 before I chnged to Amsoil, and ended ALL issues re oil in the little engine. Extended the changes to (10,000 miles with analysis)after the flushing of the goo from Castrol in the Diesel and torched turbos.

The trans bearings gave some problems twice, they had to be replaced, in 4th and 5th gears. Seemed it was common, as my GF had a 1985 black 4wd diesel 5 speed as well which had the bearings replaced as well.
These were truly GREAT vehicles, and if maintained, seemed they'ed last indefinitely! I USED mine HARD, towing all kinds of trailers, and the cruiser to the beach on wkends (we'd camp on it anf fish all wkend) then tow it back for 3 yrs until I could afford a lot and trailer and kept it there.