tranny problems ....again!!!

my tranny is hard to shift when the engine is warm has anybody had a similar problem or has an idea on what could it be
the tranny fluid is ok i did notice that when the engine is cold it shifts normal can anyone help me???

automatic or standard

If it's a manual, there is a little plastic cup-like grommet that the shifter rides in that can break and bind the shifter. Don't force it into gear! Remove the shifter boots and the 3 or 4 fasteners holding the shifter in, lift out the shifter assembly (being careful nothing drops in) and the white plastic grommet will be visible. It looks like a shotgun wad. Mine went out at 202k. Easy to inspect and/or replace.

At what point does the clutch start to grab? How high off the floor?
It is possible that the pilot bearing is going bad, and causing the input shaft to turn when the clutch pedal is pushed. Assuming the clutch is adjusted correctly.

it starts like at half way and the adjusting cable is almost maxed out the tranny also makes a whining noise when the clutch is not pressed but when it is prerssed and the clutch disengaged it makes no noise .
is the input bearing the one that they give you with the new clutch or is that in the tranny?

Yes, thats the pilot bearing. Does the noise go away if you put lite pressure on the clutch pedal? It could mean that the trow out bearing is going bad. But it will take time for that to happen.

i just replaced both of those not to long ago im thinking about replacing the cable cuz the adjuster looks like its stripped but what trips me out is the issue of not shifting when hot if the engine is cold or off it shifts like nothing

If you just replaced it then thats not the problem. How long has it been since you changed the oil in in?
The things that make it shift easy the brass blocking rings. They are a cone shaped thing with teeth on the out side and are between gears. Some people call the synchro. But the synchronizer is actually made up of a couple of parts.
First I think we need to figure out the noise and see if it is somthing to worry about. But go ahead and change out the cable. It won't hurt. And if you can tighten it up a little more. You want it to start to grab about 1 to 2 inches off the floor. This ensures the pressure plate opening far enough not to interfere with the disk. When you step on the pedal the pressure plate opens, the disk is then allowed to slide just a little on the input shaft to release from the flywheel. If the disk does not slide it can drag on the flywheel and cause hard shifting.

yeah when i replaced the clutch the i asked the guy at auto zone what kind of oil i needed and the guy said "normally i use 75-80w"on my car so i took couple of those and i poured them into the tranny only to find out a couple of weeks later that it uses gl4 or gl5 gear oil the guy drives a vw not a mitsubishi so i drained the tranny and filled it with gl5 ran it and didnt feel right so i went with gl4

The Gl is just an API rating system. What weight did you use?

i dont remeber but ill just end up replacing it!!!

You can use any hypoed gear oil you like. 80-90 is just fine. Synthetic, there is a wide range to pick from. I ran 85-140 for years. My Freightliner uses engine oil in the trans.10w-40.
I know we had a discussion on oils not that long ago about the tranys. So whats your plan of attack on this hard shift thing?

first changing the cable and see what it does the noise doesnt bother me as long as it runs im also tempted to change the tranny for a used one that they gave me when i bought the truck the only thing is that its been sitting outside for the longest time i checked it out the other day and it looks ok it spins ok and shifts good
from there i dont know what else i should do
now what happens if you fill the tranny from the shifter openning i read its not recomended but why?

When adjusting the cable for the clutch, leave 1/2 to 3/4 in freeplay measured at the top of pedal arm where the stop is located. I have filled my 5 spd through the shifter with no issues, but it could cause issues with the gates of the internal rail shifter linkage as it was designed to be dry under normal operations. Redline synthetic makes a MT90 fluid specifically for manual trannies that I am going to use in mine when I change it next time. Currently I have been running Royal Purple gear oil and the tranny shifts so easily that I have accidentally downshifted into first instead of third a couple of times - not fun.

There is a chance of over filling that way. Just leave out the fill plug and let the extra run out. I would guess that someone filled it to the top that way at some point.

yeah i did it the first time cuz it seemed easy but then i emptied it and did it the right way

Any idea where I could pick up one of those

Any idea where I could pick up one of those grommets? Does Rock Auto have them or is this another one of those search all over for it situations?

If you mean the shifter bushing, they are still available from the mitsu dealer, or from a hyundai dealer - there is a thread on here with the part number.