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Yea got a little carried away when cleaning and painting the engine bay and forgot to mark where wires went.
all the locations for the wires coming off the positive battery cable, dist and all those little buggers that sit on the inner fender.
...where the hell do they go.
:bang:
Thanks
every connector on the engine is different, your problem is routing...:-)
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...er-216-Manuals
Haynes manual chapter 12...
Thanks, but i didnt see what i needed somehow in there. All the leads from the engine wiring harness to the resistor, distributor, and positive battery cable. Ill hopefully be able to post a pic of said wires. Im just stupid and forgot to label all this little things
http://i1281.photobucket.com/albums/...psxqyecepk.jpg
Trying to get it running today.
progress:
http://i1281.photobucket.com/albums/...psewmp9f92.jpg
So to revisit this, Trying to start it, it sounds like the battery is dying but its not (used multiple batteries).
Could this be because of those wires not being connected properly? or possibly a bad ground?
make sure all grounds are in great shape & use di-electric grease wherever possible (this will help prevent radio noise issues also)...you know check battery ground to cab, frame, engine etc...(i add grounds)...i added a ground cable for <$1.00 @ rockauto
Found it. Sneaky Frayed wire on the distributor housing.
Don't want to be in an enclosed area when you light that up, the smoke off that exhaust manifold will need to bake on and while it does, the smoke can be pretty bad. Be sure to fill that oil filter up also with oil if you haven't. Most damage is done on the first few seconds of a new engine start, if you rebuilt it. Glad you found the problem also. Seems most the time we find our problems we end up kicking ourselves since it was so simple of an issue. We're only human.
Just notice...where is the heat shield for that passenger side motor mount. That exhaust manifold also has no shield which is ok I guess, but that mount is only rubber and very close to that manifold. The fuel regulator your using is ok as well, but the reviews on them are pretty bad. Maybe think about the holley regulator, it has a place for a mini gauge to go on it too and the regulator is much more reliable then the one your using.
Download a manual from our forum manuals thread. They are free and they are free, lol.
Speak for yourself!Quote:
Originally Posted by BradMph
Roy's catz
Thanks, yea the heat shield for passenger side is off as i simply forgot to put it back on. I have to pull the motor again anyway cause stupid me did not replace the rear main seal thinking it would be fine since it didnt leak before but i was very very wrong lol.Quote:
Originally Posted by BradMph
That regulator sucks so bad its not even funny. I really think it is the same flow rate regardless of whatever you dial it in to.
The only major problem since rebuild is vavles. They are ticking like a sum bitch. i dont have a good torque wrench so i just guessing i didnt torque the cam down properly. I did notice one of the hydro lifters was acting a little loose but couldnt see a massive difference between the others so i left it.
Ill post a video this evening and see what you guys think.
Thanks for all the input!
Check to be sure the lifters are not in up-side-down. I did that (easy enough to do) and the lifters clacked loud as can be.Quote:
The only major problem since rebuild is vavles. They are ticking like a sum bitch.
Also be sure that seal uses the right seal compound. They will leak if done incorrectly. Try to use anaerobic sealer so it will last. This is what the manual mentions to use.
Nice job on the engine bay also, looks clean...very nice.