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89 Raider won't idle...
Here's a shot in the dark. Had to remove the heads on my Raider 3.0 because 3 exhaust valve guides had slipped. Replaced them, valve lifters, seals, timing belt etc. Anyway... upon re-assembling the motor it will start, then revs really high and dies. Double checked my timing and it's on, as well as the distributor being in the right position and wires being in the right place. Checked all my coolant lines, fuel lines, and vacuum lines and they were all as they should be. All electrical connections are good... any ideas of what it may be? Sounds like an air leak somewhere to me. Thanks guys!
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If you put a scanner on it what codes are you getting? It sounds like you have a large vacuum leek.
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I don't have an OBD 1 scanner, no check engine light on though. Here's where I'm at as of this morning. Checked for vacuum leaks and there are none, checked for fuel and I'm not getting any. Fuel pump isn't kicking on when I turn the ignition, ran a wire straight back to the pimp and it works fine.. From what I've read there is no fuel pump fuse, only an $80 souped up relay and the ECU. Also... from other posts online I've gathered that there is a transistor that sits on the coil bracket that sends a signal to the ECU that cuts the fuel pump on as well. Seeing as how I never messed with anything inside the truck while removing the heads I tend to believe the wiring under the hood has a short in it somewhere causing the transistor to not send a signal to the ECU to kick on the pump. Any thoughts...?
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Could as well be the ECU. There are transistors and capacitors that lose their fluid guts and destroy the boards within.
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Could as well be the ECU. There are transistors and capacitors that lose their fluid guts and destroy the boards within.
Also, you count the needle counts with a volt meter. See FSM for procedure for this diagnostic method.
Can download *.pdf of the FSM here: http://www.mitsubishilinks.com/
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I bet a plug prong came loose and when you stuck the male into the female it pushed the prong out the back side of the plug. But where it is IDK. You will need to trace the wire back and look to see if the relay is working.
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So here's where I'm at with this ordeal. I now have fuel coming into the injectors, would like to check fuel pressure but can't find where to hook in with a gauge. I have spark at all the plugs, timing is dead on, I've changed the coolant temp sensor with no change. It still starts, idles high and then dies. I guess the next step is to take out the wiring harness, unwrap it and check for any breaks. Anymore ideas?
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You need the special test light for injectors. Then you can see if there firing. It almost sounds like the only injector that is working is the cold start injector. When it turns off so does the truck.
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Thanks for the idea. I could use a regular test light and see if the injectors are firing while my daughter turns the ignition over. I didn't see a cold start injector when I took the motor apart though
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1 Attachment(s)
Attachment 10281 Does anyone know what the part in this pic ( with the part number on it ) is? I've googledthe number and found nothing. I'll try and get it fromthe Mitsubishi dealer if nobody knows. Thanks...
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Thanks for the help, tried both websites though and came up with no match.
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Looks like a resistor of some kind. Not sure. A regular test light won't work. It draws to much current. You could use a an analog meter. Then you can see the needle swing.
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Sorry I've not responded in awhile but I finally found the cause of my poor idling issue. I had left a tiny washer on the front stud that lines up the air intake portion of the engine, then laid the new gasket over top and bolted everythign back down. I checked for air leaks a few times by removing it again but never took the gasket off when doing so, so I never saw the hidden washer. ANyway it runs perfect now, thanks for all your help!
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been there done that with Geronimo- left washers under the weber carb gasket - makes the header glow cherry red real quick
