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Yes they can be built up, quite a few people in the DSM(eclipse) community swap to the 2.4l and DOHC swap them. I do not have a lot of info on it but the info can be found on projectzerog.com forums and also dsmtuners.com and hotrodcoffeeshop.comQuote:
Originally Posted by Hiteshotrodshop
I'm trying to decide on what transmission to run on my truck.. I need to know what will handle up to 800whp.. I still daily drive it so I prefer manual trans but possibly a good automatic setup? Any input/ideas?
check out projectzerog.com and ask Bill Hinchner on there what he recommends. He makes adapters for the 4g63 for all kinds of trannies, FORD and GM autos and manuals, Toyota supra and other trannies, etc.. He can tell you the best setup.
i have a question...i'm looking to do the [4g63] instead of going to buy the whole swap.will a 4g63 head fit my block.2.4???
Yes, see this sticky for more info: http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...DOHC-swap-info
Does anyone know if the FWD DSM flywheel setup will work in a wideblock kM145 transmission? I'm almost done with my 4g64/63 and will be installing it into my 86 4wd soon. Just need to figure out a clutch that can handle about 400hp.
Short answer - no. If you've ensured the block is compatible with the KM145, you are going to need a wide block flywheel or the starter motor won't engage the ring gear. DSM gear is all narrow block.Quote:
Originally Posted by Malaking_TT
You are doing the DOHC head onto your 2.4l correct? No it will not, you will need to use your 4g64(or a comparable wideblock clutch setup) stuff since the block and transmission are wideblock. If you can't find a heavy duty clutch for the 2.4, contact "Spec" clutches they will make you a custom clutch/pressure plate setup in Stage 1, 2, or 3.Quote:
Originally Posted by Malaking_TT
should be the same as a starion clutch. Lotsa options, Many 2.6s run cheap ebay XTD clutches behind their 300+ ft-lbs tq
Spec been more miss than hit with starions 240mm, yet work amazing on 2.3 sohc fords (from way back when they were STAR clutches)
Would a starion disc and pressure plate also require a starion flywheel? I have a g54 and a 4g64 flywheel to choose from right now.
4g64/63 rwd swap details here. Used starion drivetrain bits iirc
http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/i...owtopic=148920
dunno if u have CAS firewall clearance or the luxury of moving the motor ahead ? Solution outlined here as well
How would I go about the electrical for a 1990 mighty max 2.4? Is it plug and play? What do I need to change so I can prepare my truck for the swap. I don't want the pitfalls of being stranded without a daily driver
2.4 will be the same as any other mitsu truck, not plug and play as the truck and car use two different setups.
better off sticking with daily driving. 2.4 dohc ain't your average weekend project
that starion link i posted, detailing the hardware alone, should tell u that
u can find the electrical info on projectzero forum
I have a g63b in it with the narrowblock trans, the 4g64 FI intake is working the g63b just fine, and I want a weekend project, and get the 6 bolt in I'm just wondering how to adapt the harness to truck. I am also building a 4g64 DOHC with a R154 trans as a daily but it's about time and money (dual springs, stainless valves, FP4R cams, ported polished, eagle 100mm crank 20 over pistons, and Brian Crower Rods, all the goodies)Quote:
Originally Posted by dash
easiest quickest route to a twincam turbo truck..... grab a used dsm 2.0 and bolt it to your narrow 5spd
highly experienced may b able to pull it off in a weekend.
DroppedMitsu did an excellent writeup, first post in the thread. Link to detailed wiring included.
only thing not specified; DSM turbo flywheel is vastly different vs non turbo
and starion has two clutch sizes. Early 225mm & later 240mm(too big for any dsm flywheel)
any old half decent worn oem dsm 2.0 has more than enough torque to press u in the seat and haul the truck around
....enough grunt to break up that 5 speed also, if ya wanted
building up a 2.4 + R154 maybe over the top for a street truck. Definitely far less performance value per dollar
Just finished doing this swap, huge thanks to DroppedMitsu for collecting and posting this information. This thread served as a guide for the vast majority of the project. Just a couple things to add for anyone else doing the swap, particularly if you're doing a 7-bolt motor.
- For starters, if it's in your budget, I agree with everyone who says you should go 6-bolt. The only reason I went 7-bolt was because I was on a budget and got a steal on everything I needed out of a 7-bolt dsm. I plan on building a 6-bolt to drop in and make some bigger power later on, which should be real easy as all the work is already done.
- Neither the 2.0 truck water pump nor the 1.8 thermostat housing will fit the 7-bolt motor.
- I was able to use the 2.0 trans, starion (225mm) clutch, and dsm pressure plate. However, one of the biggest obstacles I hit (and no one else doing this swap seems to have run into this problem) was that throwout bearing wasn't reaching the clutch. :shrug: I had to take the bearing apart and add some length to it to get the setup to work properly.
- In my personal opinion, you should keep the truck harness in the truck and add the dsm harness to it. This is real easy, all you need to do is combine the battery terminals together and ground the harness in places it was originally grounded to the car. This saved me the trouble of making new wires for headlights, turn signals, etc. Taking the truck harness out will look much cleaner, but it's adding a decent amount of extra work so this is up to you.
- The 2.4 motor mounts work perfectly with very little modification to the mounts. Even the thread patterns are the same for the bolts. However, if you chose to save money and time by not moving them forward (and keeping the transmission where it is with stock drive shaft usable), you will need to chop a huge hole in the firewall to make it fit. Make it bigger than you think it needs to be, because you're going to be reaching back there quite a bit when you get to plumbing coolant lines and whatnot. I then welded a new section of firewall further back, worked out pretty well.
- I bought 2 gates 22436 water hoses online ($15 each) and they worked perfectly for upper and lower radiator hoses with no modification. It's challenging to find a hose that works and fits around the turbo, so I thought this was worth mentioning.
Except for this thread and projectzerog.org, I had a pretty hard time finding information for this swap online. I decided to make a video series documenting the swap in detail, hopefully it helps you guys taking on the task. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NWPb...thkDkWyU_pxlCN
If you're just considering the swap, just do it! The thing is an absolute blast to drive. I was able to complete the whole project spending less than $2000. The truck wont turn out as clean going my route, but I just want people to know that you can do this on a budget. The world needs more 4G63 Mighty Max's!
good to add info. Just to clear up some things
so u swapped in a DSM 2.0 7 bolt ?
what 7 bolt flywheel did u use.... DSM turbo, DSM non turbo or truck ?
Did u use DSM non-turbo or turbo pressure plate ?
2nd gen DSM head ?
starion link I posted detailed; taking the water out the front of the head, and using
2ng gen cam(head) + crank(block) sensors, to avoid firewall molesting or motor move foward
Thanks for the extra added info, much appreciated.
About this part, yes this SHOULD be kept in the truck, it is NOT recommended to remove it and I did not say that in the original post. You should however remove the truck ENGINE harness, which is separate from the chassis harness(headlights, turn signals, etc.)Quote:
Originally Posted by AaronB31
Yes, I used a DSM 7 Bolt. I followed DroppedMitsu's direction and used the flywheel and pressure that came out of the same DSM (yes, turbo) that the engine came out of. I used the 2g head that came on that motor as well, never took it off as I saw no reason to do so.Quote:
Originally Posted by dash
Were I to do the swap again, I would definitely look into making the water and sensors accessible from the front like you're saying. Not because firewall modification is difficult, but because it's a huge pain when you realize you never put a thermostat in the engine and have to reach around back there while installing it :P If I ever pull the engine again, I'll probably do that.
My mistake, I didn't even realize the Mighty Max engine harness disconnected from the rest of it. Or did you just cut out the engine related parts?Quote:
Originally Posted by DroppedMitsu
Yes, they are separate harnesses and engine harness can be pulled only.Quote:
Originally Posted by AaronB31
I want to do a 4g63 swap but my ram 50 is 4wd? 2.6 liter engine but idk if the engine will still bolt to the transmission. the trans is a KM145.
holy shit ive been watching your channel to help me with this swap lol