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so im done my engine build and im in the process of getting these darn vacuum lines in there right spots on my 2.6. but i had a few broken nipples on the thermo valves. the one in the rear i seem to fix up pretty good. but i took the front one off to fix it but now i cant seem to find it. im pretty mad about it too. do i need this? anyone know where i can get one? help would be appreciated.
Attachment 4906
On the stock carb setup, yes. Put on a weber and it can go away...
oh nice. both thermos can go or just the one?
Both go with a weber - in fact, all the hoses go except a ported vac line to the advance on the dist, and the big one for the brake booster. You could run the evap canister vent line to the air cleaner if you want.
well that is awesome. gonna be difficult to tune it considering its fresh build and never been started yet. and can i use the stock fuel pump or fo i need an electrical one?
electric. 3 psi is what you want. It's easer to tune with the weber then the stock one.
so technically for the time being i can take all the vacuum lines off with the stock carb. plug the ports and the same result would happen besides the tunability and performance the weber has.
No it's not that easy. You have a feedback carb that is controlled by all the other smog things. It will run but just real bad. With the stock carb the carb controls the fuel mix and ratio. It self adjusts as it warms up, drives, power on a hill. It's a Pain to get working like new, but it can be done with some fiddling and a big learning curve. But this is all dependent on the operation of all the other little things it's hooked up to working correctly.
:shakehead: soo where can i get the weber at? anny links?
Try Weber's direct. Some other guys on here had a great review about there service I think. They sent the wrong one and fixed the problem with out any hassle. http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...ighlight=weber
Side question here about the thermo valve, and this is just because I don't want to go and hook a vacuum gauge up to it right now, but does anyone know if it allows vacuum or closes off the vacuum when it gets to temperature?
I know the temperature that it operates at, is stamped into the end of it. The part in the water jacket. But as for weather it opens or closes,, the answer is yes,,,, LOL .. IDK. but it might be in the manual.
the thermo valve opens at temperature to activate the egr and other emissions parts that need to have the motor at operating temp to run.
anyone know if that diagram w/ vac. lines applies to my '88 2.0L too?
yes it doesQuote:
Originally Posted by ikeepzitclean
thank u.. and case-scenario, which will probably happen, I'll call u to run across da street and help me out on that when its in there :lmao:plz and thxQuote:
Originally Posted by camoit
I have a thermo valve I discovered broken at the base , haven't been able to locate a replacement yet . Engine runs fine as long as the innereds are seated . Can I bypass that someway ?
The thermo switches operate ancillary stuff like the exhaust riser from the exhaust manifold to the air cleaner neck. If you cap off the lines or connections from the carb/inlet manifold that are directly hooked up to the thermo switch, it will eliminate vac leaks and the engine will still run fine.
well that's what I was thinking too, just looking for some feedback on it , ThanksQuote:
Originally Posted by geezer101