1984 Toyota SR5 Pickup

So I have been driving a 1984 Toyota, with a 22R and a manual transmission, and I have a few questions.
1. Apart from the fact it is hard to start cold, it wants to pull forward in neutral, the colder it is the worse it is, and sometimes it wants to move forward so bad I have to put the transfer case in neutral. Hoe do I fix that?

2. When I stomp on it, it barrely accelerates and looses alot of power, but if i let off of the gas a little it will take off pretty good, I never had this issue in my Mighty Max, even when it had the minuki on it, what could cause this problem? could it be the fact that it is missing a choke plate on the primary? Maybe just put my weber on it?

3. If you run it at a RPM higher than 3,000 for a period of time, it will "Surge" like you are turning the key off and back on, I put an old GM coil in place of the old coil, and kept the ignition module, but it still surges.

Replace the timing belt and check timing if it has not been done. They will run but loss of power when they skip a tooth on the belt. Then check the clutch adjust and change the oil in the trany. If fuel injected change the O2 sensor, check the throttle position sensor, have the injectors cleaned, and find the vacuum leek.
Let us know.....

Well, 1, It doesn't have a belt, It uses a chain, but I will check it. 2 It is a Carb'd 22R. I have not really looked that hard for a vacuum leak. I really want to put my weber on it, but the high idle on my weber needs a solinoid to trigger it, and I dont have the adapter for it either.

I meant an adapter so I can put the Weber on the 22R. I joined yotatech.com, but I have yet to post this question there. It is a little more difficult to use than Mightyram50.net.

Well you have the early 22r. Look at the float bole. There is a sight glass that you should see the fuel level. There is a dot on the glass where the level should be. Then look at the distributer. They have a problem with the advance not working correctly. Make sure it's working correctly. Also hows the plugs, wires and cap. It might have a fuel pump and filter that are getting old.

New fuel filter, wires are new, a new distributor cap may be needed, new advance (Well, it came off of a 2.6L Ram 50, which uses the same advance)Have not checked the fuel pump, I cannot see into the sight glass, it is too foggy.

I would look to the carb. See if you can find that fuel level some how.

This pile of crap started to really piss me off today, So i drove to school just fine, and then at lunch I bought a new distributor O-ring, thinking it would stop the oil leaking from the distributor, installed it, set the front pulley to 0 deg tdc, and aligned the rotor on the distributor to no 1, went crank it over and all it did was backfire, try to start and then back fire again, so after screwing around, i found out that the distributor was off by 180 deg, but I got it to run home, had a whole crap load of issues, then I set the distributor 180 deg from where it was at and put the plug wires on right, started it up and it idled great, so I went to drive down the road, and it took off, got to like 3000 rpm, then the plugs fouled and it sputtered real bad, so i turned around and drove back home sputtering at about 2mph in low range just so it wouldn't die, got home and took the o ring off, set the timing and fired it up, i drove down the road, about 3000rpm it started to sputter, so i floored it, and it took off, it will cruise just fine but when giving it throttle it sputters and wants to die real bad (Well it did, about 7 times). It sounds like a carb issue but I didn't touch the carb at all. It pissed me off so bad that when I came out of a corner, it started to sputter, so i took it from third and dropped it in 1st, hit 7000 rpm, and it sprayed oil out of every bad gasket.

I seriously just want to wreck it into a phone pole and set it on fire, ever since I got it I have had nothing but this serious oil leak and all kinds of problems. If you are curious here is the list.

Bad Heater Relay
40 amp external regulated alt took a crap(replaced)
loose bolts on the front pullys (fixed)
crap get up and go, until I put a Weber on, now it runs too rich and i keep some vacuum lines unplugged, but then it idles at 1,900 rpm
suspension makes a thumping noise over every bump i hit
the steering is seriously loose
i leak like a quart of oil in a normal week
front slip yoke is worn out, so it "clicks" in 4wd
front bumper is falling off
exaust leaks like a mofo (almost fixed)
Tach doesn't work when cold
temp gauge always says cold, then shoots up to normal, when it gets hot, it goes down
hardly any oil pressure
valves tick
shocks are bad
leaf springs are worn
280,000 miles no rebuild
and now
IT WONT FREAKIN RUN FOR CRAP

And it had all these issues when my grandma bought it at the dealership in 2010 for...................$1998.99. What a rip off

Any help on why it does this would be helpful, I would sell it on Craigslist but is has yet to be in my name, and I still owe $600 for it

The only big issues with my mitsu is it had a bad con rod, it needed a front end aligntment, a drivers door panel, and different jets for the weber I got up to 90 in my mitsu, this Toyota will barely do 60

Wholy crap, guess what was wrong, when I was adjusting the dist, i had it 360 deg off, and it backfired out of the carb, there is no E clip attaching the choke arm to the choke, and it came off, so the crap running was coming from the choke being closed, i opened it up, and did a burnout out of my driveway. I just need to find out where the clattering is coming from, i probably have a few valves out of adjustmet after the 3 second 7000 rpm run

Looks like you don't need to sell it now.

That made me so mad when I figured out it was just the choke, but at the same time I was glad it wasn't something more severe. Nope, dont need to sell it, but I still am looking at a 2wd 1991 D50. I would like two rigs, a weekend/backup fun rig and a work rig.

Ford 2.3L turbo/T5 conversion maybe ................:lmao:

Haha, that would be cool. But I went ahead and took the valve cover off to see what was making all that chattering noise, and to my surprise the timing chain, sprocket, cam and rocker arms all looked like new, I have had a bad oil leak for some time so I went ahead and cleaned the valve cover while it was off. I started to check out the rocker arm gaps and I noticed cam tower 1 had a HUGE crack in it, not a hairline fracture like the mitsu had I mean I could stick a flathead screwdriver in there, so I found where the chattering noise is coming from. Here are some pics
Attachment 2687 Attachment 2688Attachment 2689

So i know i havent been on this site in a loooooong time since i sold my last D50, which i bought with the money from this truck... I sold this truck to a friend of mine back in october and he has drove it ever since, not to long ago he put a cheap 3 inch body lift on it.. He was driving home from a party with a friend of his, he was doing around 85-95mph and he was going around a sharp corner and he started to drive the fog line, he corrected and then over corrected and rolled the truck, during two rolls the cab stayed intact, then the bolts ripped out of the washers and the mounts of the bottom of the cab and it flew about 20-30 feet into the air, rolling 7-13 times more until he landed in an ajacent feild, the cab and the frame were about 30 feet apart.. they had friends following along and watched the whole thing, they had to roll the cab back over and destroy the window frame to pull him out, the friend just crawled out, they walked minor scratches and bruises... I got to drive the truck one last time on friday... Its sad seeing the truck, but so amazing they lived through it...

my friend who wrecked the Toyota just sat like he was getting surgery done while my girlfriends mom who is a nurse cleaned 5 very large wounds on his head...

Looks like the Yota got hit by a herd of wild waterbuffalos.

All that and no DUI??? WoW

he left the accident site, so he is in some serious trouble when the police finally get around to talking to him

If he is smart he will just tell them nothing to implicate himself. Because they will try to do that. If it was only his car that was distorted then the insurance can deal with it.

I'm surprised that truck went that fast. I had a 94 2wd much lighter with an EFI 22RE and it couldnt break 85mph if it wanted to. It's amazing he survived but it's cuz it's a toyota truck. Since I've owned all the little mini trucks I have to say the yota is the toughest one. I never once worried about that truck and it had 260k no leaks, no trans issues, no front end issues or anything. It was 2wd but I couldn't get it stuck either. Tried many times.