1990 Tune up questions

Well my 1990 2.4 has 319k miles on her. I just got it and she runs like a top......BUT....I'm gonna go ahead and do some things to her. I have put together a list of parts I am going to replace to stop the leaks and give her a new lease on life. Am I forgetting anything? Here's the list:

A/C(already converted from R12):
New compressor
New expansion valve
New drier/accumulator

Ignition:
NGK plugs
United Ignition plug wires
Distributor cap/rotor

Timing:
Timing belt
tensioner
idler

Gaskets:
Valve cover gasket
Crankshaft seal
Camshaft Seal
Oil pan gasket
timing cover seal
Upper / Lower intake gaskets

Filters:
Fuel filter
Air filter

Also ordered valve stem seals, we'll see if/when I go to do those.

Anything I'm missing while it's apart?

Thanks

List looks good besides a few missing things that should definitely be done. Make sure to replace all timing belt tensioners/pulleys and the auto tensioner. Also the balance shaft belt and tensioners. Also while your doing the timing components miht as well do the water pump since the belts have to be off to replace it anyways.

List updated (added balance shaft parts and water pump).

Do I need to do the balance shaft seal as well as crank/cam seals? Is it serviceable?

A/C(already converted from R12):
New compressor
New expansion valve
New drier/accumulator

Ignition:
NGK plugs
United Ignition plug wires
Distributor cap/rotor

Timing:
Timing belt
tensioner
idler

Gaskets:
Valve cover gasket
Crankshaft seal
Camshaft Seal
Oil pan gasket
timing cover seal
Upper / Lower intake gaskets

Filters:
Fuel filter
Air filter

Balance shaft belt
Balance shaft tensioner

Water pump

Belts

Also ordered valve stem seals, we'll see if/when I go to do those.

Also added thermostat and throttle body gasket. Oh, and tailgate straps, lol.

Should be a good weekend's worth of work.

Any fluid suggestions for rear end / manual trans?

The motor doesn't have a Oil pan gasket it's a RTV Seal. with what you're doing, you should be pulling the motor out. your not far from a rebuild, make sure and download the manual (4G1_4G3_4G5_4G9_4G9_Sieries_Engine.zip)from the 216 manual's post.and use the first manual in the set, it says 1992 but yours is the same. It wouldn't hurt you to download the Haynes manual also in the same post. the first Mitsubushi Manual has the torque spec for every bolt, I highly recommend you follow those spec's.

Hmnmm, rock auto lists an oil pan gasket........oh well. Thanks for the info.

I have a manual, but could you provide a link to the files you are speaking of? I don't know what 216 manual's post means or is?

Uh oh, you didn't look in the manuals section of this site, strike 1 :-)

http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...er-216-Manuals

Rock auto may list a oil pan gasket, but they never came from the factory with one. the RTV does a better job than a cork gasket anyway and is easier.


Clean and Paint it also...

Attachment 2655

Hay Papa Bear. You should take the grand tour of the site. You will find it is a lot bigger then it appears.
Main sections.
Customer-Lounge
The-Mechanic-Bay
Body & Appearance
Vehicle-Specific
Resource-Center
Classifieds
Then there are the Forums listed in them. Along with all the links across the top of the page and inside the sub-forums. Give it some time you will be posting like the best of them and telling the new guys where to find what they are looking for. Just take your time and ask as many question as you want. We are here to keep you on the correct path and out of the pit falls we all have gone through with these trucks. Give it time, this site will grow on you....

Thanks guys, I will check out the manuals section. I'm not a forum noob, but will admit I didn't do any browsing before posting up, just searched in the areas I was interested in at the time.

I am in the process of selling my house and moving into another at the same time (bigger garage, lol) and will wait until then to pull the motor. Think it will be easier on me with more room.

Which of the above do you think i should do right off the bat? I'm gonna do air/fuel filters, plugs/wires/cap/rotor, and A/C parts first. Then pull motor down the road and clean/paint it and replace all gaskets and seals and timing belts and tensioners and things like that. Will surely adjust valves and do valve seals while I'm in there.

Is there any need to go ahead and rebuild while it's mostly apart, or should I just not worry about it? It runs great, but smokes a little white on startup and burns oil from cam/crank seals.

Thanks again guys.

you're on the right track, unless it's a leaky pig and a smokepot, you may just get away with the consumables, filters and belts/plugs and wires/cap & rotor (water pump while you're there). Motor wil probably go another 300K :-)

Anybody know how to remove the A/C compressor clutch/pulley assembly from the compressor?

I've got the nut off the end of the shaft, but cannot get the pulley/clutch assy to pull off of the compressor itself. Does it require a special tool?

I got it off. Damn what a PITA......

special tool = yes a clutch puller.
Otherwise it is a PINA but it will come off. hope you did not bend it to badly.